GE Profile TFX27PF/TFT27PF Refridgerator

Hello,

The replacement part number is WR30X10093 it is GE's newest electronic icemaker,all newer style icemakers and designed to also work for older models such as yours


GENE

Good day,
If the freezer section is at normal temperature, then the best approach is a step by step procedure to get it up and running properly.
Be aware, once the freezer temp rises to 14 degrees or higher the ice maker, by design will lock itself off.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Good day,
The best way to isolate the problem, is go step by step. The following will get you there.
P.S. Ice makers left on extended periods without water connected can ruin the ice maker. The reason, is there is a calrod heater molded to the bottom of the ice maker to loosen the cubes.
With no water, it will cycle these heaters every 10 minutes or so eventually burning out the heater, which is non-replaceable.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Good day,
There are many reasons an ice maker will not work. I'll assume the freezer is at normal temperature.
Just follow the steps, and it will get you there.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve

WAS IT LEAKING FROM INSIDE THE FREEZER OR FROM BOTTOM OF FRIDGE? ONCE IN A WHILE YOU NEED TO TAKE OUT THE ICE BIN AND DUMP ICE OUT AND CLEAN IT. HOW CAN THE ICE MACHINE OVERFLOW WITH ICE WHEN THE ICE IN THE TRAY WON'T BUDGE? NEED CLARIFICATION. SOUNDS LIKE YOU EITHER HAVE A BAD ICE MAKER MODULE OR THE SOLENOID FOR THE ICE ON THE WATER VALVE IS BAD.

The GE Icemaker has a center bottom plunger that drives the ice cube discharge tray up and down. If that center plunger oring has failed the ice maker will leak in a drip drip drip fashion. If it only leaks once every cube cycle then it is overflowing when filling. This can be corrected 2 ways. One is to turn of the water supply line and disconnet the water line on the back of the unit. Place the hose into a large bowl of some kiind and then have someone open the valve until the flow is full and then reduce that flow about 50 percent. Remember how many turns it took to get that flow and shut off the water supply line. Then reconnect the line and turn on the water the number of turns you counted when shutting off the water. The PROPER way of setting the water flow timing is to frome the front cover of the ice maker and turn the adjustment screw in the DECREASE direction. My suspicions are that the plunger o-ring is leaking. It costs nearly as much to have the service call to replace the o-ring as it does to replace the ice maker. Your choice but I would replace the icemaker if the plunger is leaking. (mid-bottom point of ice maker) Just note that once a leak occurs in the plunger area if the plunger has corroded the new o-ring will wear out rapidly.

Good day,
Pour water from small paper cup until it near fills the well of the ice maker. With the lever down, close freezer door and wait 2 to 3 hours. If it dumps then the ice maker should be good, if not, replace ice maker.
If dumps O.K. then the dual water valve is bad, and needs replaced.
You should check the fill tube that runs from the back of the machine to see if it is blocked with ice. (requires removing ice maker) but even so, if it is iced, you'll need to clear, but the water valve in the back rear of the machine is leaking and still needs replaced.

Thanks for using FixYa

Check two things.

1: see if you have ice buildup in the water inlet tube above ice maker, if you do chance are the water valve is bad, if not,

2: see if you have icicles hanging from bottom of ice maker, if you do you have a bad ice maker.

Either way, will need full model number and serial number both to get you the right part numbers for parts.

This sounds like the float mechanism has gone bad. Remove it and have a look. It may be the float or the switch on it that is bad. There is also a solenoid valve. Parts kits are available. Shut off the water first!

If the unit has an ice maker or water dispensor, etc. there's always a chance a connection is loose or a valve is leaking by. If no other water is hooked up to the refer, then the defrost cycle water that should drain down to the bottom underneath pan is what is likely. You may have to take the inside rear panels off to see if the drain line is plugged up, that would allow water from the defrosting of the coils to drip inside the fridge vice outside like it should.