Speaker watt how can make 60watts speaker can handle 100w amp..can i add devices or more speakers or bridge the power.?

You can do that but your subs will have to be monsters or you will blow them out as bridged mode will drive 2400 watts RMS into 4 ohms. Many speakers are rated in peak or program power... these are FAKE specifications. with this amp in bridged mode each of two identical speakers would have to be rated at 2400 watts program or about 3600 watts peak each to survive... When rating speakers and amps ALWAYS compare RMS values... and for safety use an amp of 80% of the RMS rating of the connected speaker or speaker system.

This could be the reason. If you look at the specs for this amp you will see that the continuous power out is rated for 380W bridged. The speakers rated at 450W should be able to handle close to 315W continuous. Now if you split these numbers being you have bridged these speakers, you drive each one up to about 190W continuous. The speakers are being driven approximately by 60% of the rated capability. I personally like to keep it right where you got it, not exceeding 80% of the speakers rated capacity.

Here are the specs for the AMP:

Specifications

Peak Music Power 760 Watts

Number of Channels 2

Load Impedance Capability 2~8 Ohm (Stereo), 4~8 Ohm (Bridged)

Continuous Power (4 ohm) 125W x 2

Continuous Power (2 ohm) 190W x 2

Continuous Power Bridged (4 ohm) 380W x 1

Frequency Response 10Hz ~ 50kHz

Total Harmonic Distortion 0.008%

Signal-to-Noise Ratio 100dB

Dimensions 12" x 2-3/8" x 12-3/4"

Features

Bridgeable

Channel # Capability 1/2/3

PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply

Screw-Type Speaker Terminals

Balanced Isolator Input Circuit

RCA Inputs 2 Channel

Input Level Control Hi-Volt (200mV ~ 6.5v)

Built-in Crossover Selectable LPF (80Hz, -12dB/Oct.)

In addition to the impedance rating of a speaker, there is also a wattage rating. Ideally, power output of the amplifier should not exceed the power handling rating of the speakers. The input impedance of the speakers should match the amplifier output impedance for maximum power transfer (Rin = Rout where R is resistance in Ohms). Supplying more power or wattage to the speaker than it can handle will result in distortion, and if the output of the amp is high enough and present long enough, it will damage the voice coil of the speaker. Make sure that when comparing wattage ratings, you are comparing the same rating between amps & speakers. Watts can be expressed three different ways: "Peak", "Peak to Peak" and the industry standard "RMS". The relationship is such: an industry standard value of "70 Watts RMS" (70W RMS) equals "100 Watts Peak" (100W P) *and* also is the same as "200 Watts Peak to Peak" (200W P-P). Furthermore, there is no such thing as 200W "Music Power" (but is often expressed this way to inflate the RMS wattage rating (and usually is close to the P-P rating). A speaker is an electrical device, so most the things that happen to electrical devices when over powered can happen to speakers and amplifiers, too.

Increasing the signal source level (input signal to the amp via volume control) in an attempt to get more audio power to the speaker can overdrive the amplifier - resulting in "clipping". This is plainly heard as "muddied" sound. The otherwise loud, crisp, clean passages in music end up sounding garbled and unpleasant when an amplifier is over driven in this way. This can damage both the amp and the speaker.

Cheap amps with higher THD (total harmonic distortion) ratings sound worse than their counterparts with a lower THD rating - when all other variables are the same. You'll pay extra for lower THD values.

You might be able to make a speaker seem louder by positioning the speakers against a wall, on the floor, etc. Experiment; as it can make a significant difference in sound levels and low frequency bass sounds.

I hope this was helpful!

well first of all you cant bridge subs... you can bridge an amp... and for 2 they are probablly not 1000 watts, make sure you understand RMS and what the sub can ACTUALLY HANDLE properly... i would get a 1000 to 1500 watt RMS that is RMS RMS RMS RMS amp not one that says 2000 watts MAX POWER cuz thats cheap ****... get a kicker JL hifonic alpine or something in that category that actually tells you the TRUE power output of the amp... then run those 4 subs in a parallel circuit so its like really only having 2 subs. make sure then these subs do not run less then 2 ohms at the terminals while in a parallel, then bridge these subs acting as 2 subs not 4 to your TRUE 1000 watt amp and you should have a good powerful system

If your planning on using a stereo system in your car or home you need to follow some rules otherwise your just wasting money. The watts of a speaker means how much power it can handle. The higher the number the more power it can handle, and usually the louder it can get without distorting. If your amp has more power or close to the wattage rating of the speaker you will blow the speaker, it can even get so hot it ignites. The amount of ohms is the electrical resistance the speaker provides. House speakers usually have 8 ohms where car speakers tend to use 4. 8 ohm stereo means your left and your right are separate channels and each speaker has 8 ohms. 8 ohms bridged means you bridge the left and right channel to increase the power output of the amp and you have to use either 1 8 ohm speaker, or 2 4ohm speakers in parallel to prevent damage to the system. Same goes for 4 ohms. If I remember correctly you want your sub(woofer) to have a wattage rating 20% higher than the amp. Remember if the speaker overheats its no good, but most amps if they overheat they just shut off until they cool off, but only if they state they have a thermal overload protection.

Pyramid makes the PB series of amps. I have one that's driving a Sub.
The PB 700 puts out rms 60watts x 2 @ 2ohms, which gives you some "headroom" for your speakers. You don't want to over drive speakers with , for example, a 1000 watts for 100 watt speakers, because that's a good way to blow your speakers.
There are many brands and models of amps that will fit your speakers. Just make sure the amp will drive 2ohm speakers, since your jbl's are rated at 2ohm impedance.
You may want to consider adding a Sub woofer to your setup. A single Sub would fill in the low end very nicely. If you got a 4 channel amp, then two channels will drive your jbl's, and you can bridge the other two channels to drive the Sub. That would be a kick'n sound!
Just make sure the amp is bridgeable
For example, the Pyramid PB 1200 is a 4 channel, bridgeable amp. This particular amp will drive the 2ohm jbl's, but you would want a 4 or 8 ohm Sub connected to the bridged channels.

wire speakers in series google it to find diagrams

hey" i got 2 behringer 2500 amps and i have 2 peavey speaker that are 4 ohms 2000 watts eachand want to mono the amp separte,and i want to run 1 amp to each speaker so can you help me?

Hi again,

It would seem you posted twice. Pls click here for your other post with my response.

Cheers.

Hi monmax,
I hope you are aware that in bridged mode your amp will become monaural (single channel, double power). If you still wish to bridge it:
Switch of power.
Set mode switch behind amp to "bridge" position.
Connect speaker positive to CH1+ve terminal of amp output and connect speaker negative to CH2 +ve terminal.
Be aware that now, in bridged mode your amps output power delivery is 1100 watts for a 4 ohm speaker and 900 watts for an 8 ohm speaker. Make sure your speaker can handle that.
Peace
Jango.