Legacy amp 1200 watts

Those capacitors don't add any power they just store power in between bass notes but if you don't have enough current going to it through your power wire and don't have a good ground to bare shiny metal with a wire lug your not going to get a good connection. Also I spray clear coat or rubberized under coating or something over the ground connection so it doesn't corrode in the future and cause you to loose current. If you have the small Jensen 1200 with the lights on it those amp really only put out about 600 true watts. The type of wire your using and fuse sizing makes a big big difference. I used to only use OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) Audio power wire which is pure copper butearnwd about welding cable and it carries much more current and is cheaper and you cab buy it by the foot at ACDCWIREANDSUPPLY.COM so you don't have any extra wire. The shorter a wire is the more current it can carry. Also if you don't have your big 3 done under the hood or know what it is look it up on YouTube. I always run a AGM battery in the back close as possible to my amp and a $20 Stinger Pro adjustable Voltmeter off the amp itself so I can see the amps voltage in real accurate time. Get you a AGM battery, AGM battery, $20 Voltmeter, make good grounds to shiny bare metal. You can get a 10 pk of copper wire lugs online for $10 or less.

1st have your subs facing inwards towards the front of the car, not facing out the boot, This creates a better bass.

Wire 1 sub to one channel and the other sub to the other channel.

Turn down your gain as low as possible and then power everything up.

turn volume to desired loudness and then start turning up the gain slowly, if distorts a little turn in back down a notch.

avoid using bass boost, I agree it sounds great but it puts more strain on your amp and shortens its life.

after sorting out your gain, tweak all others until sound is bassy and clear with no distortion.

If you would like to use bass boost, turn on bass boost first, then up your gain etc.

Here are your specs. RMS 900 Watts Nominal and Max 1300 on 2 Channel @ 2 Ohms.
4 Gauge should do fine but if you like to feed the beast go with 2 gauge.
Looks like going rate is $110 on Amazon or elsewhere.
If it attains the RMS wattage it would be a good amp. I like monoblocks but
you will pay more. I looked into Tri-Mode and it is straight forward but people
are having problems figuring it out. With your 2 speaker operation you should
avoid the issues others are having.
Good luck and remember, rearview mirrors were meant to fall off!
Mine: JL 1800A monoblock into 2-JL 12" W3's in series for low bass 20-80 Hz; Lanzar Vibe 266 bridged into 2-12" Memphis in series for mid bass 40-200m Hz. 2 guage wire to mononblock-250 amp fused at battery, 4 guage to Vibe w/250 amp at battery.

Anarchy Series 2-Channel Car Amplifier

• RMS Power Rating:
  • 2 ohms: 900 watts x 2 chan.
  • Bridged, 4 ohms: 1800 watts x 1 chan.
• Max power output:
  • 2 ohms: 1300 watts x 2 chan.
• Total Power Output: 2600 watts
• Pulse width modulated MOSFET power supply
• Convenient remote subwoofer control
• LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators
• Variable Bass Boost 0 to +18 dB
• Bridgeable Tri-mode operations
• Chrome-plated connections enhance durability
• Variable high and low pass crossovers
• Illuminated logo
• 3-Way System Protection circuitry (thermal, overload, and speaker short protection)
• Dual speaker terminals simplify the hookup of multiple speakers
• Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink for extreme heat dissipation
• Low level high inputs
• Heavy-duty set-screw terminals
• Input sensitivity:
  • Low level: 100mV-2V
  • High level: 2V-8V
• Variable high-pass filter (45-90 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
• Variable low-pass filter (50-500 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
• Damping factor: >125
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 102 dB
• Frequency response: 20-20,000 Hz
• Dimensions: 15-9/16"L x 10"W x 2-3/16"H
• 1/0-gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation. Contact us for information regarding a discount on select amplifier kits when purchased together with this amplifier.
• 1-year Manufacturer's warranty

if the protect light is still on with all speakers disconected then you have overloaded the internal ic and blown it beyound its ability to reset

sorry

Is that on all the time or are you saying the light is on? If that light is always on that just means it's protecting your amp. If it's off and not playing bass then your in trouble

you have an unloaded channel,so the voltage is exceeding what the protect circuit is supposed to see.you have to connect an 8 ohm resistor across the output of the unused channel.
do not drive a signal into it or you will smoke the resistor.
a 10 watt will do ok with zero signal input

What kind of subs are you running? Meaning what brand, what are the ohm, spl and wattage? I'll look up your amp while you get that info to me. Looking forward to helping you:) Thanks!

9 times out of 10 if your amplifire is in protect mode and evrything externaly, like speakers, fuse, voltage, etc. checks out fine then
either you have shorted out output transistors or power mosfet transistors. Basicly that just about what happens with car amps.
It's easy enough to fix IF, IF you know what your doing. First you
need to check the output transistors with a digital volt meter on diode check, If they check out then check your power supply mosfet transistors. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Very common. I buy non working amps all the time and repair them. Listen to pbabin also he has helped me out. Good luck

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

Hi , you need to replace with thick wire , if possible attache fuse or circuit trip overload protection you may ask to thew radio store .

1) legacy products are highly overrated and i have never seen one put out the power it claims
2) if you are running the amp bridged, you need to match the impedance of the speakers to the amps highest output impedance, otherwise your system will not sound all that great...

what size fuse or fuses does your amp use? what size wire did you install with (power and ground)? did you connect direct to battery or did you connect to a fuse block or similar? did you use a stiffening capacitor? does it sound like it is clipping when you turn it up or is it just distorted? what kind of box are you using for the speakers (ported, vented, sealed, bandpass)?

if you give me the model number of your speakers and your amplifier i can probably help you more, but with the information you have provided, this is all i can offer..

hope it helps,
trin