Amp in protection mode

Check fuses. Many vehicles now have two fuse boxes. One, in the cabin and another under the hood.

The box under the hood often has fuses that protect many of the vehicle's higher level electronics, systems and other high current devices. Get an automotive fuse tester, voltmeter or physically remove & visually inspect for open / blown fuses (visual inspection is the least reliable method) in BOTH locations.

Replace any open fuse with proper size & type as determined by the owner manual or legend that often appears on a label affixed to the protective fusebox cover. If it blows again, do not replace the fuse. There is a problem that should be corrected before re-attempting. if you can't locate / correct the problem, you should have the vehicle checked by a pro.

Good luck!

Most likely your power supply is damaged and will need to be replaced. Sometimes, power supply manufacturers add additional "fusible resistors" to provide additional protection.

Hi.

The amp does not go on protection only because of wiring or power source problem , but also and mainly when there is an internal fault.

Protection is started whenever an out-of range voltage value is detected from the controller circuit.

Protection can be triggered from a burnt final IC or from a speaker wiring problem.

Since you have ruled out speake, wiring and power source problems, then this Amp is probably defective

If the Amp works fine on a different vehicle, then protection mode may start either because speakers impedance is not within Amp specs, or because the amp has a too big power draw. In this last case the problem is fixed installing a capacitor on the Amp 12V line.

Regards.

Ginko.

this fuse supplies power to the paseenger compartment fuse box
4 BTN 40 amp Maxi fuse si Passenger
compartment fuses supplies
2, 6, 12, 13, 7

First off which fuse is it? The inline fuse from the battery or the amplifiers power supply fuse? Blowing the main fuse from the battery is caused by either the load (your amp) drawing too much current or you have a short to ground somewhere. Maybe there is a tear in the 12Vdc line and it is shorting to the chassis of your car. If the amps power supply fuse is blowing as soon as it turns on your amp has a shorted power supply. This will require internal component changes by a technician. If it is blowing after operation at high volumes I would say change the impedance that the amp is driving. If you are at 2 ohm try to rewire your speakers for four ohm. (go from parallel to series wiring then bridge mono or operate the amp in stereo mode)

This needs to go to the repair shop. The protect mode is turned on when either the power supply has a problem or one or both power amplifiers have a problem. These are often blown components.

These units are HARD to work on. To open you have to first remove then front panel before you can remove the back panel that has the power supply and power amps/heat sinks.

Compare repairs of these units to working under an automobile dashboard!

Hint: On startup, use a series 150 wat lamp to limit current while repairing. SInce these use a switching supply operating off the input line, use an isolation transformer for personal safety.

Amp Failure:
There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause. If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure. Transistor Failure/Checking Transistors:
In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals.

Seems as you have blown an output. Seek repairs.

if you live in a town that has a remote starter installation shop you can just go there and buy a new pinswitch for around 6 dollars i recomend changing the location of it under the hood
and if your red power wire has only 15 amps of protection you should switch it for a 30 amp fuse thats the minimum that is going to be pulled when the unit cranks the starter wire so the 15 will deffinately melt or blow and check to insure the ground is perfectly connected (in the world of current vs. resistance the weakest point will give in first...

The amplifier probably has shorted output transistors.

Disconnect the speakers and RCA cables. Replace the fuses with two 10 amp fuses or a single 20 amp fuse. If the amp blows the fuse when it powers up, the outputs are almost certainly the problem. Don't try it with the two 30 amp fuses. The smaller fuses will provide more protection for the power supply. If the amp powers up with the smaller fuses and they don't blow, check the speakers and the wiring (for shorts to ground or shorts between wires).

Disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally (doesn't go into protection), the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.