Power draw on start up

You can adjust the viscosity.

In soft serve and frozen yogurt machines, the logic board X36641SER2Refurbished Gen 2 Logic Board This item is sold with exchange...measures the viscosity of the product by monitoring the amp draw of the beater motor. When the machine reaches the set point, it cycles off and the product is ready. In auto mode, you can only adjust product viscosity, temperature in the freezing cylinder is not monitored.
The power board measures the amp draw. L1 power supplied to the beater motor goes through the power board on the beater terminals. Single phase and three phase units use the same Softech control, so the power board allows for different amp draw ranges. A jumper on the power board determines the amp draw range. Place the jumper on the pin that corresponds to the amp draw of the beater motor when the product is at the desired viscosity.
Setting Viscosity Adjustment
1. Place an amp probe on one of the L1 leads on the beater terminal on the power board.
2. Turn the viscosity adjustment screw to the "MAX" position.
3. With the freezer properly primed, press "AUTO".
4. During the freezing process, draw samples and inspect the product appearance. When the desired product viscosity and appearance is achieved, note the beater amperage.
5. Press "AUTO" to cancel the refrigeration cycle.
6. Using the chart, set what range the beater motor amperage falls into and place the jumper on the corresponding pin.
Viscosity Control Chart
2.4 pin - 1.2 amp to 2.4 amp
5.0 pin - 2.5 amp to 5.0 amp
8.0 pin - 5.7 amp to 11.2 amp
7. Press "AUTO". When amperage reaches the noted draw, turn the viscosity adjustment screw SLOWLY until the unit cycles off.
8. Draw several samples to verify the product and amperage when the machine cycles off remain consistent.
Adjusting Viscosity
To increase viscosity, or make the product harder, turn the dial clockwise towards maximum. Important: The dial only turns a limited amount if it stops turning do not force it.
To decrease the viscosity, or make the product softer, turn the dial counter-clockwise towards minimum. The dial only turns a limited amount do not force it once it stops.
We recommend you only turn the dial about 1 hour on the clock, at a time. Once you have made your adjustment, pull the handle to start a new cycle, when the machine cycles off check the product again.
X36641SER2Refurbished Gen 2 Logic Board This item is sold with exchange...

Check the starting capacitor- if ng replace it. Also check compressor motor windings. If they are ok then it is possible that the motor has seized. To confirm that check for the current draw of the motor while not running. Usually on the unit there will be a rating for normal current draw and a draw when the rotor is frozen. Check your reading against the frozen motor reading. And if the motor is frozen and not running it will be hot, very hot and the clixon will kill power to motor till it cools and it will shut down again as it overheats due to non operation.

The compressor in your refig is bad. whats happening is when you let the compressor cool down it will run for a while then it starts binding internally until it gets to the point of humming and clicking. only repair is replacing the compressor. sorry for the bad news...

Most refrigerators have the evaporator in the freezer and use air flow to cool down the refrigerator compartment. Can you tell if the defrost cycle is working, IS there ice on the evaporator. Can you defrost it. Try taking it off the power freeze cycle and also power cool cycle. When you cleaned underneath did you find a pan that had water in it. sometimes the drain clogs up and the condensate just sits in the freezer and refreezes the water, this acts like a blanket and slows down the cooling in the refrigerator. see if you can look at see if the drain is clogged, this may be your problem. You can get back to me and i will see if i can help you. thank you. and a rating would be helpful. thank you. wally

Lock motor Amps ( LMA ) is the current draw when the compressor starts.This draw of current is less then 1sec.The amp amount shoud be on the compressor Name Plate.This amp draw is also the amps used when the compressor goes bad and locks up then the overload kicks out.

the clicking noise may be coming from the start and oveer load relay on the compressor shut the unit down until the compressor is cool replace the over load and start relay on the compressor.

if you have a clamp type power metercheck the current draw on the compressor it should be between 1.2-1.6 amps during a running load.

I have some information on your model and that would involve forced defrost by the service manual page 28 at bottom. How old is your Samsung? Forced Operation Function (Pull-down / Refrigerator Defrost / Refrigerator . Freezer-Defrost / Cancellation)
● This function enables a pull-down mode, a defrost mode for the refrigerator only, a defrost mode for the freezer and the
refrigerator at the same time, and a cancellation of this function.
● Press Power Freeze and Fridge Temp. buttons for 8 seconds simultaneously to get in the ready mode for a forced
operation.
● The display panel will return to normal after 20 seconds in the ready mode.
● At the ready mode, press any button(except Ice Type and Child Lock) once to start a pull-down operation, twice for a
defrost cycle for the refrigerator, three times for a defrost cycle for the freezer and the refrigerator, and finally four times
for cancellation of this function.
● Another way to cancel this function is to simply plug out and in the power cord.
1) Pull-down
1-1) At the ready mode, press any button once then the buzzer will beep (ON for 1/2 second and OFF for 1/2 second)
until this mode is cancelled.
1-2) At this pull-down mode, the compressor will start immediately (No 5 minute delay) and if the system is in the
defrost cycle, it will be cancelled right away.
note) If this pull-down mode begins right after the compressor was off, the compressor may not start to run due to an
overload condition.
1-3) At this mode, the compressor and freezer fan will operate continuously for 24 hours and the refrigerator fan will be
on and off according to the set temperature(34℉)
1-4) After 24 hour operation, the system will be cycled at -14℉ for the freezer and 34℉ for the refrigerator.
1-5) In order to cancel this mode at any time, select the next mode on the ready mode or power off the system.
2) Refrigerator Defrost / Refrigerator . Freezer-Defrost operation
2-1) At the pull-down mode, press any button again on the ready mode to begin the defrost cycle for the refrigerator.
2-2) The beep sound continues for 3 second at the beginning, then ON for 3/4 seconds and OFF for 1/4 second until
this mode cease.
2-3) After this operation, the system will come back to normal operation.
2-4) At this mode, press any button again on the ready mode to operate the defrost cycles for both compartments.
2-5) The beep sound continues for 3 seconds at that time, then ON for 1/4 second and OFF for 3/4 seconds until the
defrost operation cease.
3) Cancellation
3-1) At the R,F-Defrost mode, press ant button again on the ready mode to return to a normal operation.
3-2) Simply unplug the power cord, then plug it again to return to a normal operation.
Press both button for 8seconds at the same time Send maual in one moment, Thanks, Sea Breeze

very possible or it is low on freon maybe

I would first check the defrost timer...It may be stuck in defrost position and not advancing to the cooling mode, a common problem...There is a slot, clutched cut, to keep it from being turned in the wrong direction and if you can get to it, place a screw drive in the slot and turn it slowly until you hear a click and/or the compressor start...Some timers are located in back, some in front( bottom), and others inside the refrigerator close to the thermostat...If this does the trick a new timer may be in order, but often it may not happen again...I would replace it anyway to keep from losing food...If the compressor does not start, it may be a bigger problem and usally the overload, especially after a storm with a power off on situation..Overloads burn up from to much amp draw, starting, or trying to start the compressor to soon after it stopping...The compressor pumps up on one side and pulls in on the other creating a pressue difference that must equalize on the off cycle for the compressor to start again...If the off cycle is cut short, like a power off/on situation, the load is to much for it to start until the pressures equalize on the off cycle...Hope this helps.

Most likely a bad compressor. You could try a new relay on it first.