Tv seems to need to warm up

The previous posters pretty much smashed it in the mouth im pretty good with subminiature surface mount caps and repaired the mitsu pip modules since they are no longer available for replacment dont try this at home kiddies pull the pip module ( its the one with the blue connector standing up on the main pcb it uplugs like a computer board oh theres the c word again any way if you can find someone to jump thru the video and audio on the connector of the pip board you will loose a useless feature and gain video and audio back to the tv two 4.7 uf electrolytes from like pin 2-7 1-8 or sumthin like that thats somewhere in the internet galaxy warning i have seen these sets with bad tubes if you turn off all ambient sound in a dead quiet room and hear arcing or snapping noises this set has a high voltage leaks somewhere and suspect bad crts mottos...Mitsubishi, we're still building Zeros ok.. you have questions we dont have any answers 73

This is a pretty commom problem with this model. As it has several bad capacitors that go bad. If you have no solid state repair experience, and to save you from any high voltage shocks that can kill you, i would highly advise you to contact a local authorized repair shop to assist you in the repair of this set. As much as you really want to repair this set yourself, To do so would be tempting faith! As a Tv set these days are all solid state and have no user serviceable parts inside of them and to try and experiment with them, could be very harmfull and a risky thing for the user to do. Please find a trained tech to assist myou in the repair of your set. Good luck , and please report back on how the set was repaired.

You don't state your model and this site indicates you don't have to but for other regular Joes' like myself it helps. Some of these problems/solutions show up under many models of the Mitsubishi line. Now there are several "chasis" in these sets. They are VZ6, VZ7, VZ8 and VZ7+ that mine has. If this is a Mitsubishi model VS-50705 or one of the others built in 1999 they have like the other tech informed some bad electrolytic capacitors around the PIP circuitry on the "signal board" where it connects to the "main board". The other tech is correct. If you don't know about power you could get hurt. But if you are like me and know enough to do some basic things then here is what Proton1000 gave me and my set had the same thing and it got worse. You have to replace the electrolytic capacitors (C2P02 47uf 35v), (C2P03 100uf 16v), (C2P04 47uf 50v), (C2P05 100uf 16v) and (C2P08 47uf 35v). These are located around a heat sinked voltage regulator IC2P01 (9v IC regulator). You will have the same setup if your "signal board" contains the PIP IC (IC6P01). There are 2 square little boxes on the "signal board" that have removable tops. One is solid the other has holes. The one with holes is where the PIP IC is under so you can identify if you have the same board. Some have a PIP board on the "main board" and I've seen recommendations to bypass the PIP by adding capacitors to a connection under the "main board" VG plug. I think it was on this site also. Now my initial problem was solved but now I have a little color/bright white color going on the main feed. The sub PIP feeds look great. So I've opened a case here hoping the guru's can help. I suspect another capacitor or other minor component. And you won't find these capacitors at your local Radio Shack. They don't carry crap anymore like the old days. You can go online to this site in Atlanta and then call them and order over the phone and they will have anything you would ever need in electronics. acksupply.com