GE PSS26SHRSS Side by Side Refrigerator Logo
Anonymous Posted on Sep 29, 2006

Refrigerator does not run. Exterior indicators flashing on and off.

Refrigerator stopped running for no reason. Interior Temperature control does not function, but all interior lights work, indicating refrigerator is getting proper power. All exterior indicator lights are flashing on and off intermittently and a clicking noise can be heard. I have unplugged to the refrigerator to see if I could clear the problem to no avail. I suspect the Main Control Board, but was hoping someone else had experienced this problem and that it may be something simple like a stuck relay or rest button. Any ideas?

  • Anonymous Sep 30, 2006

    I have a Revison 1 Motherboard, so I jumpered J11 and J8 at the three-pronged blue harness. The compressor runs just fine as I suspected (I had previously performed resistance checks of the compressor wingings and they were normal). I disconnected J2 and tried to get a good reading between pins J2-8 to J2-3. The voltage was flucuating between 0 and 11, as I could not get a steady reading. So, I decided to double-check the numbering scheme at J2 to make sure I was reading across the correct pins. As I was doing this, the compressor started running and all the displays seemed to be functioning normally. When I plugged J2 back in, everything stopped, and the indicator lights started flickering on and off again. I'm assuming the motherboard is bad at this point. Am I correct to assume this?

  • Anonymous Jul 16, 2007

    I noticed this was still listed as a problem when, in fact, you advice helped me fix this a looooong time ago. It was the control board that had failed. Thanks.


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  • Posted on Sep 30, 2006
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Jsrock, if you can do some voltage checks we can help you with this board issue. The thing thats throwing me is the clicking you are hearing. On that board, on the bottom you have a three pronged harness that is blue. Should say J8, J9 and J4 which is line. Get some jumper wire with clips on each end and jump line to compressor, J4 and J8.(Rev1 boards was J11 and J8). You are now sending 120V directly to the compressor and if it is good, it should start and you can rule it out. After this, unplug the J2 connector from the board. Check for 12VDC, not AC, at pins J2-8 to J2-3. If you do not have that voltage, replace the main board. If you do have that voltage, you have a short in either the condensor fan motor or evap fan motor circuits. Carefull, you will be working around live juice here. back.

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My Amana 19cu ft refrigerator, freezer on the bottom. Refrigerator stopped working, freezer is still working, MODEL DRB1901CW. S/N109533070CE

There are plenty of reasons this could happen like the following: PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE Loud operating sound level • See "Sound Information" section for explanation of normal operating sounds Freezer too warm. Compressor not operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Defective compressor • Defective overload or relay Refrigerator too cold • Refrigerator temperature set too cold • Chefs Pantry control set too cold or misaligned allowing freezer air to escape into refrigerator section • Freezer temperature set too cold • Restricted condenser air • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor cuts off on overload • Heavy usage • High ambient • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Loose or missing condenser fan blade • Improper voltage • Defective relay or overload • Compressor motor winding • Non-condensibles in system • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Opened door • Heavy usage • Defective freezer fan motor • Opened defrost thermostat • Opened defrost heater • Loose or missing freezer or condenser fan blade • Heavily frosted evaporator • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Inefficient compressor Refrigerator too warm • Refrigerator temperature set too warm • Freezer temperature set too warm • Return air or air supply duct blocked • Chefs Pantry control set too warm or air supply tube blocked • Heavy usage • High ambient Problem Possible Cause Freezer too cold • Freezer temperature set too cold Long off cyde • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Short off cycle • Heavy usage • High ambient • Freezer temperature set too cold • Light constantly on • Poor door gasket seal Long or continuous run cyde • Heavy usage • High ambient • Inadequate condenser air flow • Freezer temperature set too cold • Loss or restricted refrigerant Short run cycle • Light usage • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Exterior cabinet condensation • High humidity. Design accepts beads of water on cabinet exterior after 4 hours with 0° to 2°F (-18° to -17°C) freezer food temperature and 38° to 40°F (3° to 4°C) refrigerator food temperature in 84% R.H. conditions. See "Typical Sweat Pattern" section under above conditions. • Freezer temperature set too cold • Poor door gasket seal • Insulation void

Control board clicks every 3 sec. No cooling. No fan or compressor running.

Avanb, I can almost assure you that the control board is the problem. I'm assuming that the interior lights are on, but no fans and the compressor is not running. To make sure, first unplug the temperature control harness. (encoder). If the refrigerator starts running, replace the temperature control board (encoder board. If it doesn't start running, replace the main board in back. To remove the control panel, remove the 2 screws located on the bottom. Slide the panel down. Then just disconnect the harness to the temperature control. Catriver.

1998 Chevrolet Malibu 54k miles - replaced fuel pump assembly & now some dash warning lights and clock stay on. Any ideas?

Replacing a fuel pump has nothing to do with instrument cluster lights or the clock staying on. Unless you shorted wires , did you disconnect the negative battery cable before hand ?
The body control module (BCM) performs the following functions:
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Interpreting all of the driver warnings sent by the control modules on the class 2 serial data line
Sending the information to the instrument cluster in the form of a SPI serial data bus message
The following list of messages are sent by the BCM to the instrument cluster:
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Check the fuel level sensor wires , the fuel level sensor is a input to the BCM .

Freezer FZ175 Red Warning Light is flashing

The flashing red light indicates the problem in the temperature of the unit.The temperature is rising over then required so the red light is flashing. There are some possibilities that you will have to get checked.
1) Make sure your freezer/refrigerator door is closing properly and sealing all around.If the doors are not closing properly then this can lead to rise in temperature.
2) If doors are proper and closed properly then other possibility is to check the compressor .Check the compressor is it running properly or its not running.Beside the compressor there is a fan if the fan is running the compressor is turning on if fan is not running the compressor is not running.If the unit is not getting very cold this also indicates the problem is in the compressor section.A weak or faulty compressor causes the temperature rise problem.
3) If compressor also checks out ok then the other possibility is fault in the thermostat of the unit.The thermostat is getting overheated and this is causing the red light flashing.
4) Before replacing any part in the unit try the defrost procedure first .Keep the unit unplugged from power and keep both the freezer/refrigerator doors open .let it remain unplugged for 24 hours.Then reconnect the power and check for some time.If the unit works properly that means defrost procedure solved the problem.But if same error light comes On flashing that means the faulty part needs replacement.
You can get required parts for your refrigerator from the on-line sites like :--
Thanks. keep updated for any more can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

When the temperature control on my refrigerator is set to medium or higher the indicator starts flashing and the fridge stops working. What could be the problem?

the temp controller ie either out of range or the fam motor is arching out when you switch to a higher mode that causes the fan motor to run longer too!! check the fan motor or change it that should fix your probelm

The refrigerator has been running since we plugged

I think it needs replacing. In some cases, the thermometer is actually the front of the controller of the unit. This could be why it runs constantly. I would also look at the condenser coils and make sure they are really clean.
let's start there. let me know if I can help further.

We just purchased a ge profile refrigerator today, and cannot get it off of demo mode

You have to go into the Diagnostic mode to see if you can reset this issue or if the main board in back is bad. Here's how to do it:

To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all 4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.

For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test. Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.

For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

First, run the control and thermistor test:

Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)
This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code (0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display. If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and 3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option.

Thermistor test results:
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When testing has been completed, do the following :
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When you're done, unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds and plug it in....if it does not run, the board is bad.

Hot refrigerator

There are 2 or 3 things that would cause this. first make sure the condenser coils are not plugged with dust (vacumn or blow them out) next check to make sure the fan that cools these coils is running, (this is the most likely problem). if both of these check out ok then you would need to check to make sure your interior lights ar going off when the doors are closed as these will add extra heat and cause the center rails to run hot. last and most uncommon would be a freon system problem.  

fyi there is a hot gas freon line that runs in between the doors to prevent exterior sweating. when poor or no air flow problems for the condenser coil exist it causes this area to become hotter. 
One more thing. if you do determine that the condenser fan motor is bad you can put a normal house fan blowing on to the coil to help cool this area down until you can get the unit repaired. 
If you need any further assistance leave me a comment here and I'll gladly get back to you. Thanks Peyton

Temperature Displays Flash

just stop getting cold, both sides no ice, everything runs, bought new, sat in storage 3 years, been running 2 years

GE Profile does not run.

Just to be sure... check your owners manual to see if this unit has a "showroom switch". It's a little switch that turns off the compressor, etc. but lets everything else light up so the sales persono on the showroom floor can show it off. Some customers have hit the switch to "on" during cleaning by accident.
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