Rollout sw open - Raypak Pool & Spa

rollout switch on lower inside cover by burn rack and gas valve possible down draft pushed flames into cabinet and tripped it if keeps happening might need chimney if ok check gas pressure if low unit overheated or burner tube clogged

Fusible link or the Roll out switch are one and the same...
if it burns out, or provides 'Open Circuit', then you had heat or flame exit the front of the heater instead of up!
This is a problem that needs correction.
Most common reason, Sooted Heat Exchanger / Tube Bundle.
dissassemble and clean it - not with a brush!!!
2nd possibility, especially if outdoor installation is a 'Downdraft'.
Don't just replace rollout switch - FIX the reason it burned out!

Here are your Amana flash codes:
Steady On - Normal
Off Controller Failure

1 System Lockout
2 Pressure Sw stuck closed
3 Pressure SW Stuck Open
4 Open - High Limit
5 Flame sense without gas valve
6 Open rollout or open Fuse
7 low flame signal
8 Check igniter or improper ground
continuous flashing - reversed AC polarity

need a new fuseable link but why did it overheat check gas pressure if sooted up clean heat exchange or if ok need a wind stack

You possibly have a Flaming out problem. Your "One" time rollout sensor needs to be replaced, then the reason for the rollout needs to be identified! Very Important! Get a qualified heater service center out to diagnose this problem. Don't just replace the rollout sensor. Sometimes these are called Fusible Link.

If you didn't reset the rollout switch, the air will not work. The rollout switches are in the furnace burner secton. Look at the burners, the rollout switch(es) are just above the burner. They will have a button on top to push for reset. These rollout switches will generally have two wires going to them.

How do you test a pressure switch and other limit controls?
This is for people who are experienced with electrical equipment and the use of a Volt Ohm meter. *Please never by pass a pressure switch or limit control. The pressure switch and limit switches are there for your safety. You would test by setting your volt meter to "Volts AC" and test the rollout switch by placing one meter probe on one terminal of the rollout switch and your other meter probe to a good ground. Have the red probe touching the top terminal of the rollout switch and the black probe touching a ground (body) of the furnace. You should be getting 25.85 volts which means the rollout is good on the top terminal. I would next test the bottom terminal of the rollout by touching the red meter probe to the bottom terminal on the rollout switch and the black terminal to ground. If I get 25.85 volts on the bottom terminal the rollout is good. If I do not get any voltage on the bottom terminal then the rollout has tripped and can be reset (if equipped) by pressing in on the little button or replaced. If your rollout switch is tripped you probably have a stopped up heat exchanger or a leaking heat exchanger. I would recommend calling in a service technician to find out why the rollout switch tripped. If you have an open limit control either the furnace has over heated or the limit has gone bad. Problems that would make a limit open up would be dirty filters, dirty evaporator coil causing a restriction in the air flow or a slow blower motor (check the capacitor on the blower motor to make sure it is good). A weak blower motor capacitor will cause the blower to run slow and eventually fail. Pressure switches, and limit switches can be tested with a meter in the same manner. With the furnace calling for heat you can test each of the terminals on the pressure switch to ground to make sure the pressure switch is closed. You should be getting between 24 to 28 volts from each terminal to ground if the pressure switch is closed. If the pressure switch is open you either have a stopped up vent, drain line (if you have a condensing furnace) or bad pressure switch.