I recently had a RCA adapter, 4 gauge amplifier wiring kit, 1.2 farad capacitor, 2 channel amplifier, and one 12 inch subwoofer installed. The last step (I was told) was to find an 80 amp fuse and put it in the fuse holder. I was also told that the capacitor was installed improperly. The problem, the amplifier's protection light keeps coming on. No sound whatsoever. The manual said to check for shorts (couldn't find any), and the next step being to disconnect the speaker leads and reset the amplifier (did it and protection light is still coming on). Voltage output is 12.7 with the car off, and 14.4 with it running. Everything is brand new. (Rockford Fosgate 4 gauge wiring kit, Universal RCA adapter, Lanzar Vibe 266, and a Power Acoustik FUBR-12) Any suggestions for this bundle of frustration?
Have you checked the fuses on the amp if you havent replace the fuse(s) with a new fuse with the same amp rating. If you see it's not blown it could be cracked instead of blowing all the way I would still try and put a new fuse in it anyway.
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Re: Protection Light irritation
If the amplifier goes into protect when there are no speaker wires connected to the amp, the amp is likely defective. The most likely culprit is shorted output transistors. If it's new, return it to the place of purchase for repair/replacement.
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Impedance (ohm resistance) of the speakers you are using is below the amplifier's rating for operating in bridge mode;
You are driving the speakers at a volume exceeding the maximum power output of the amplifier;
The gauge of the wires you are using to connect the amplifier to the speakers is too small;
The gauge of the power supply wires is too small, and/or you are not using a large enough reserve capacitor at the power input
If your Kicker subs are rated at 4 Ohms, and you are using them in monoblock configuration with the speakers wired in parallel (all + terminals to the + bridge output and all - terminals to the - bridge output), try either configuring your bridge circuit in a paired bridge, where a pair of amplifier outputs are bridged, each bridged pair driving a single speaker; or if your Kicker subs are rated at 2 Ohms, use a monoblock bridge driving the speakers in series (+ bridge output to + of one speaker, - of that speaker connected to the + of the other speaker, and = of that speaker connected to - of the bridge output);
Turn the amplifier output down (but this is likely NOT the issue)
Use speaker wire that is no smaller than 8 gauge for your application. 4 or 2 gauge wire would be slightly better but not worth the additional expense;
Your power supply wire should be equal in size or larger than your speaker connector wire. Use no smaller than 8 gauge for your application. Also, use a capacitor no smaller than 2 Farads wired across the power supply input to the amplifier to compensate for pulse surges and car power dips. For your application a large capacitor will work better than an auxiliary battery or gel cell.
Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Dou
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Use some good 4 gauge wire to the amp and ground - and getcha some like 12 gauge speaker wire(MONSTERCABLE) I recommend using streetwires brand but any reputable shop around your town should have some good solid 4 gauge. Might want to invest in at least a 1 farad capacitor too if your lights start dimming when the bass hits you'll know its time for that cap-they're alot cheaper than a new alternator-good luck
Need more info. Are you sying that your lights pulse to the bass? Capacitors help. I would recomend at LEAST a 2 farad. Make sure you are using GOOD QUALITY 4 gauge power wire. So many "kits" say 4 gauge, but strip it back and you have a glorified 8 guage wire. I've seenit. Also, MAKE SURE that it is ran to the bayttery and use the SAME gauge for the ground (no more that 4 feet if possible).
In case your next question is "how do I hook up a Cap?", here it goes:
Power AND ground to the cap, then power AND ground from cap to the amp input. So very easy!!
probably your power is too short, increase your gauge wire, and your ground wire of the amplifier has to be shortly as possible, and the positive has to be enough to support peak power, you can also put a big capacitor on the positive wire to give some more power while the bass peak.
You should go with a 4 guage power wire kit. If your amp is going in and out
at high volume than that is your problem. 8 guage will work but, if you want
the proper current which is your power from your battery, going to your amp
than I would recomend the 4 guage amp install kit or just the main power
wire coming from your battery. If you would like contact me and I will send you
to a very good sight with all the info you will ever need for car amplifire installation.