Question about Pioneer PRO-100 TV
When I turn on the television, there is nothing but static sound and snow. Evenutally, the picture may come on but then will start to flicker and go to snow again. The weird thing is that the Picture in a picture will show clearly, but the main picture is just blank with no sound. I have left it on for days at a time and still had no picture, but other times, the picture comes on right away and works fine for a while. Help.
SOURCE: Picture on my rear projection TV
Your set will one day soon not come on at all. theres several capacitors on the PIP board if your set has PIP or the capacitors in the power supply. A good tech should know where to check as this set some say is hard to work on but i quess its like anything you work on for a bit gets easyer. Call an authorized repair center for pioneer. Good Luck
Posted on Aug 13, 2006
SOURCE: Pioneer 510-HD
EchoKaos may not have resoldered his PS board, which most units in that line need. This will most likely solve the problem. A virtually complete resolder is needed on that board, not just the obviously problem areas.
If not -
If the hor lines are upward and curved slightly and a couple of inches apart, then the blue Screen trimpot on the focus block is most likely turned up too high. When turned down the lines will disappear.
This mucks with your grayscale, but then it's trashed anyway by now, and after reducing it, you will have to do a new grayscale on your set, or have one done by ISF. Or a tech who knows how to set the Screen controls, since ISF does not teach that.
Posted on Feb 07, 2008
SOURCE: Pioneer elite pro 100
My set is doing the same thing again. The last time I fixed this (4 years ago) it was a capacitor gone bad in the power supply for the 24v standby circuit. (C166)
The service manuals can be ordered directly from Pioneer Part Number ARP3014 for Pro-100 model.
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
SOURCE: turns off
Hi If you haven't fixed this problem yet then this should take care of it.
I also had the same problem with the same tv. Its in the power b oard. You need to re solder all of the joint connections on the board.If this doesn't help you can search out the problem with tv since it is a very common problem
hope this helps
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
SOURCE: Pioneer Elite Pro 710 HD
If your Elite 510/610/710 - and the earlier 520/620/720s - works fine when you turn it on but starts to go hinky on its reliability once it has warmed up, you still have a shot at getting that sit remedied for a very nominal fee - or nothing, if you know what you're doing and are an electronics professional. Those models were improperly soldered at the factory on their PS boards. Those PS boards took years to go bad, but now that the constant barrage of expansion and contraction of the too-thin solder joints has started its inexorable journey towards taking down your set, the clock is ticking. You don't have much time.
One thing is very important, and I can't stress it enough: STOP USING YOUR SET NOW. Things could get much worse if you do. That means NOW, even if you are watching it right now. A deadly spike caused by the bad solder joints currently on that power supply board could be getting ready to be produced by a connection that is getting ready to separate as we speak, and that spike could take out one or more of the boards downline. One guy who called me had kept using his set for months with these intermittents happening, and eventually both the converence and the deflection boards went out, both in an instant. The set would not turn on again, and built-in indicators on the circuitry showed 3 boards now needed attention. With 3 boards to now have to deal with, he decided not to get his set repaired at all, due to the now tripled expense. His set was now totalled. It tears my heart out when one of these fine machines goes down for the count because of misuse - continued use when it's obviously hurt - and is then DNR'd by its owner. That all could have been avoided by taking action promptly rather than continuing to tempt fate, on his part.
Send me an email requesting it, and I'll send you back an emailout on how to remove it, what it costs, how to wrap it and send it, where to send it, etc. I can't divulge certain aspects of all this on the net here, must keep some of it close to the vest. Will be glad to tell you personally, by email or on the phone.
I will tell you this much - I charge $275 for the resoldering op, you pay the shipping both ways. That's less than it costs to get a replacement board from Pio and have a local Pio warranty station install it.
Keeping the same board in your set rather than replacing it is the way to go, IMHO. That way the voltages it was set up with originally, stay the same. If you get a replacement board, those voltages can be very different, affecting the precision of settings downline. Voltage regulation only has to fall within certain parameters, so different PS boards will produce different sets of voltages. The PS board and your set are now a matched pair. The best way to retain your precision in downline sets of settings, is to keep your original board in the set, the one your set was originally set up at the factory with.
To find the PS board, follow the power cord from the wall. It will lead you right to it. Use the big bubble-wrap to send it rather than the small stuff, and box it in an oversized box for the journey.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
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