Kenmore #790-72903013 gas range

SOURCE: Kenmore electric Range 2005

No! I haven't found a solution to this problem yet. The range still gives the F-30 error every time we attempt to program the oven. It has done this since the power failure accompanying hurricane Ike that blew through here in September.

I am still searcing for the reason for the F-30 code for free or very low charge. It is not worth $15 for the info alone. Once I find out what is causing the F-30 code, I will contact you again concerning the repair. In the meantime, the top burners still work, We are using them for now.

I would be much more inclined to use your repair services if you did not charge so much up front for mere informational troubleshooting.

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

Karl Wright

• 1653 Answers

SOURCE: I have kenmore elite gas range 790 series getting

The F93 shows that the Maximum oven door lock time has been exceeded.
Turn off the range and turn off the AC power and wait for up to 10 mins. The door should reopen. Turn on the AC power ans see if the error persists. If it does then check the following.

1. Check the wiring between EOC & Lock Motor Micro Switch.
2. Replace the Motor Door Latch assembly if necessary.
3. Check for binding of the Latch Cam, Lock Motor Rod & Lock Motor Cam.
4. Check to see if Lock Motor Coil is open. If open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.
5. Lock Motor continuosly runs - if Micro Switch is open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.
6. Check oven door Light Switch - if open, replace Switch.
7. If all situations above do not solve problem, replace EOC.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite Gas Range. #790 series.

Possibly a malfunctioning electric gas valve. The electronics may be sending the message to open that valve, however it could be stuck, clogged or, worse, the electric servo that manipulates it could be fried (no pun intended).
Do you have your exact model #? {Not serial} I can research where to troubleshoot a valve problem or an electronics issue.

Posted on Jan 05, 2010

blueextc3221

• 15935 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kenmore elite 790 75909993 gas range it

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
^^$#%

Posted on Sep 26, 2010

SOURCE: Kenmore gas range beeps and displays code E1-F2

I'm not sure if the error codes are the same for gas ranges as they are for electric, but this is the solution for that same error code with the electric version. you might give it a try with yours and see if it works the same for gas as well (I would assume the electronics are similar between the two).
you probably don't need to replace any parts to solve this problem. E1 -F2- = the keytail (connector ribbon) that plugs into the control board is not making good contact. first unplug your range and then remove the two screws on the underside of the back-splash controls panel to access the back of the control board. now simply cut a slip of heavy paper such as a business card to the width of the ribbon and slide it into the slot along with the ribbon connector. that will help press the contacts on the other side together snuggly. screw the back-splash back in place, plug in your range, and the problem might vanish. if the error code returns, try pulling out the connector, cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser, reinserting it into the slot and repeat above with the paper.
the paper trick worked for me for about two weeks, then the problem happened again. the next fix I tried was to unplug the keytail (the ribbon connector) from the slot on the control panel. there is a clip in each side of the black plastic receptacle (the place where the keytail plugs in on the electronics control board). pres them inward to separate the top portion of the receptacle, which I think helps to clamp the keytail into the bottom portion. the top and bottom fit tightly together, so you might need to use a small screwdriver at the joint to pry them apart, however, I did not find it necessary to remove that clamp in order to remove or replace the keytail on mine.
smoke and other sticky cooking fumes cling to the contact wires on the keytail and the pins in the receptacle (as well as other surfaces) and that buildup interferes with the electrical connection they need to make. once the keytail is free, clean it well with a mild cleanser (I used a slightly soapy, damp dish sponge) and dry it with a clean paper towel. FYI, one side of the keytail has the exposed wires which make contact with pins in the receptacle on the control board. the exposed side is on the inside surface of the curled keytail ribbon, the outside surface is translucent plastic insulation (you can feel that the outside is smoother than the inside because the inside has the contact wires exposed). the inside is the side you want to make sure is clean because those are the wires that need to make electrical contact with the pins in the receptacle.
next, use sharp scissors to carefully trim a small uniform strip (roughly 1/16 of an inch or less) off the end of the keytail. then plug it in again (remembering to use the top portion of the receptacle to secure it in if you had removed it). doing this provides a fresh spot on the exposed wires to make contact with the pins in the receptacle. my theory is that over time the wires wear out at the points where they make contact with the pins. trimming the edge allows you to insert the keytail deeper into the receptacle and therefore, the pins will contact the wires in the keytail at a new, unworn spot. it's been over a week now and so far, it seems to have fixed the problem on my stove. if I get the error message again in the future, my next step will be to try paper trick again (at least as a temporary solution), but I doubt it will be necessary any time soon.
be sure to try all other solutions first before ordering any parts. I first changed the control board for $125 and there was no change. then I ordered the touchpad, but ended up fixing the problem before it arrived. I sent the touchpad part back to Sears Parts Direct after I figured out I didn't need it and they eventually refunded $15 less than I'd paid. of that difference, $13 and change was for shipping, so the other dollar plus must have been a miscalculation or a restocking charge or something, but I didn't bother following up to find out. I also had to pay about $3 to ship it back to them via USPS because I didn't hear the UPS guy when he dropped it off on the doorstep, so I wasn't able to simply refuse the delivery.
good luck with your repair.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010