Hoses to and from pump

This is tricky... I'll suggest that you put the hoses back on EXACTLY where you took them off from. If this does not work, save all the parts, a competent technician will be able to reassemble your unit for about twice the cost of buying a new one.

Refer to the discussion at the other thread: http://www.fixya.com/support/t3309646-pump_motor_sounds_like_running_but_not

You will need to remove the top domed lid to access the working parts. Refer to http://www.fixya.com/support/t3543424-two_top_sections_held_together

Examine the water lines to ensure they are attached to the pump. If you feel you can do so without shocking yourself on any exposed electrical connectors, try disconnecting the inlet hose. Buy a two-foot section of the same size hose from the hardware store and connect it to the pump inlet. Plug in the unit (be careful!!!) and use the pump switch to see if it draws water. Then try reconnecting the inlet and connect the outlet to the new hose to see if the pump pulls water from through its suction tube and will pump through the new hose.

If either diagnosis helps, you will know that which hose is blocked and you will need to try to clear it out. Detach the hose which is suspect, so that you have just the hose as best you can. You might try using a wire clothes hangar that you straighten out, or you can have an auto mechanic shoot compressed air into one end. Good luck!

On my LGM, the motor that drives the soap pump had siezed. I disassembled down to the pump and separated the motor from the pump. With pliers, forced the motor shaft to turn and sprayed lubricant (lithium grease) onto motor's front and rear bearings.
Heater box is a little tricky to remove. Remove 4 screws to remove top plate. Lift heater out and remove insulator. Remove two screws from inside box to remove heater box bottom.

The pumps in these machines are very simple and there's almost nothing to go wrong. If the problem is actually in the pump, the most likely thing is that there's something stuck in one of the valves, but this is unlikely as long as you've got an undamaged filter on the intake tube in the clean water tank. More likely is that the diode has failed in the live wire supplying the pump. The function of the diode is to act as an electrical one-way valve, and if it fails the pump will sound like it's working but it won't shift any water. I don't know of an easy way to check the diode, but replacing the pump lead-wires should be cheap. If that doesn't solve the problem, fit a new pump (they're not expensive).
Good luck! Please remember to rate this response, thanks.

xpinto
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I wasted a lot of time following the expert advice to repair my unit by taking the cover off of the main unit and using compressed air to blow out the lines. The problem turned out to be in the lower panel of the handle (4 screws to remove). The heater is a large block of aluminum with a stainless cover held on by screws. The lower nozzle of the heater was blocked by water/soap reacting with the aluminum while in storage. Blowing out the lines as recommended with air compressor just warped the stainless cover resulting in time spent flattening this back into shape.

I would recommend the following steps:
1. Make sure that fluid levels are up in both the supply water bladder and the soap dispenser.
2. Pry off the left side access cover and ensure the pump drive belt is still in position. Switch the unit on and see that the pump is spinning.
3. With the unit plugged in and the handle laying flat on the floor (using the foot release lever) , remove the clear bezzel over the red impeller, switch the unit on, and pull the trigger for soap. Liquid stream should shoot straight up past the impeller. If not the lines are plugged somewhere.
4. Unplug the electric power. Remove the four screws and remove the lower handle access cover (with the red light in it).
5. All the fluid lines are clear plastic so you can identify which have fluid movement.
6. Disconnect the line from the soap activation switch (pliers on the squeeze hose clamp) feeding the heater (large aluminum block). Blow air (with your mouth NOT the air compressor) into this line and see if fluid movement is observed in the clear plastic lines. A little tentative about soap in your mouth, use a turkey baster filled with water). I saw no movement of liquid. Nozzle exiting the heater blocked.
7. Remove this hose and use a small drill bit to twist the debris loose. You may elect to remove the heater shinny cover for better access. Gaskets are reusable. Blow thru the hoses again to assure blockage cleared.
8. Button unit up.
9. With the clear bezel off and the red rotor exposed, plug unit in, soap and water supplies in place, switch on power and pull soap trigger. Should see vertical stream. Mine was about 5 inches initially then jumped to about 10 inches high. Knew blockage was cleared.
10. During shampoo operation if soap stops (red impeller stops spinning) first check fluid levels and fill. That doesn't work, I unscrewed the clear bezel and pulled the soap trigger with the unit switched on. Less than a second vertical stream appeared every time.
11. Now you know how to fix and achieve continuous operation.
12. The unit must be thorougly cleaned before putting it away for storage to prevent the reoccurance of the blockage in the heater. After following the manufacturer's instructions, by flushing (operating the unit) with clear water in the bladder and the soap dispenser, I did one final thing. By removing the fresh water storage/collection plastic container, a black round fitting is exposed that channels the water from the bladder into the spray system. I used a length of automotive heater hose that was the same diameter as the seal on this fitting (turkey baster with bulb off will work) and blew hard while the unit was switched on and the clear bezel was off. One last big blast of water spewed from the unit. This cleared all the lines from the bladder through the pump, switch, and heater and blows it out just prior to the spray nozzles.

This is long but specific.

Not so technical, take each step as presented.

Good luck.
Plano Tx

• check pump belt
• seat tank properly
  
• check tank filter

i have repaired many of these and found that 90% of the time its the pump! #41 on diagram < click

9% its the heater clogged up #65 on diagram < click

1st check the small problems i wrote above

if all else seems fine start by removing the heater and disconnect the hoses from it. blow through one end of the heater (should be no restriction)

I have the same problem. Pump runs a little sluggish but water does go up the siphon tube.
CR

you might have a clog, to try and unclog the lines, you need to unplug the unit, and remove the bag compartment. Then take a shop vac using the hose attachment hold it into the attachment door where there is low suction and try to draw the clog out the way it went in.

Refer to the discussion at the other thread: http://www.fixya.com/support/t3309646-pump_motor_sounds_like_running_but_not

You will need to remove the top domed lid to access the working parts. Refer to http://www.fixya.com/support/t3543424-two_top_sections_held_together

Examine the water lines to ensure they are attached to the pump. If you feel you can do so without shocking yourself on any exposed electrical connectors, try disconnecting the inlet hose. Buy a two-foot section of the same size hose from the hardware store and connect it to the pump inlet. Plug in the unit (be careful!!!) and use the pump switch to see if it draws water. Then try reconnecting the inlet and connect the outlet to the new hose to see if the pump pulls water from through its suction tube and will pump through the new hose.

Hope this picture will help: