Speakers don't work

These speakers have a bad reputation because there are scammers out there trying to sell them for more than thier worth cause the unit itself looks like it should be worth a lot ... however i say that to say I have a pair of these speakers I was given too me for free and I’ve been using them for over 5 years and they sound great the average music listener won’t know the difference especially in this ear bud era we live in ... someone mentioned these have no bass ... I personally only have 2 of the 3 speakers wired up ... I never wired up the sub cause I never needed too ... when I turn these speakers up I thump the whole block I live on ... these speakers produce plenty of bass without the sub active ... one day I’ll hook the sub and then I’ll prob find out it doesn’t work lol but if the subwoofers do work! These are good speakers for Someone on a budget who wants big sound and a good looking speaker box .... but if it doesn’t like I said it’s ok cause it produces more than enough bass with out it and I listen to hip hop! Maybe it may not be too great for those who want a more crisp sound but if you’re an 90s analog guy like myself these speakers do the job just don’t get ripped off and pay 100s for it ... I say @ the most they are @least worth $300 for the pair ... especially if the subwoofer works

Not sure, but I've heard a bad hazard switch can cause strange problems.
Also, if your truck has a body control module that controls interior and lights, that may be your problem, too. Good luck.

Sir the problem of your unit is the power IC the other channel of this IC is already faulty. unplug the unit to the main AC outlet then remove the cover of your unit you will see a large aluminum plate the power IC is attach to that heat sink in order to fix this you should replace the IC. Or can you give me the part number of the IC so I can determine the pin configuration. Good day and best regards.

Hello,

This can often be as simple as the speakers being unplugged, plugged into the wrong jacks, or powered off, so don't overlook the obvious and check to be sure. Also check the volume controls in Windows or your application to see that they are turned up and not muted. When you are sure the volume is turned up, the speakers have power and are plugged in, and the speaker configuration is correctly identified in Windows (some audio hardware uses a proprietary mixer control for this job), you need to verify whether the problem is with the speakers or the sound card. Connect different known-good speakers and see whether they work. If they don't, the issue is in the sound card-possibly the configuration of the card is incorrect or the card itself is defective. The first thing to try is clearing the ESCD in the BIOS Setup. This essentially forces the plug-and-play routines to reconfigure the system, which can resolve any conflicts. If this doesn't help, try removing and reinstalling the sound card drivers. Finally, if that doesn't help, physically remove and replace the card from the system. You might try replacing it first in the same slot and then in a different slot because timing issues can sometimes exist from one slot to the next. If that doesn't work, you must try replacing the card. If the sound "card" really isn't a card but is integrated into the motherboard, first try the ESCD reset and driver re installation. Then, if that doesn't work, you have to try disabling the integrated sound and perhaps installing a replacement card.

I hope one of these solutions help.

take one of the front speakers out and pull out the head unit and unplug a set of audio wires(front right, front left ect.) and hook it up directly from the radio to the speaker there for bypassing all the cars wires. If it works then there's a problem with the car's wiring(maybe an inline amp). If it doesn't work, then try a known good speaker from somewhere else(home stereo speaker for example) and connect it to the radio, if the speaker works, your radio is fine and there may be a problem with the speakers. If it doesn't work then you have a problem with the head unit.

This set doesn't have a headphone jack, nor does it have RCA audio output jacks. Without one or the other, you're out of luck connecting headphones to this TV.

I remember a product some years ago that allowed adding headphones using a small microphone placed in front of the speaker. This was hooked to a little amplifier that ran the headphones so the volume could be independently controlled. It was marketed as a way to let "hearing-impaired" family members listen to TV shows without needing to make it uncomfortably loud for others. I haven't looked, but something similar might still be available. It's cumbersome, though, and needs power, plus maybe being costly if you find one.

It's possible to add a headphone jack, but you need to know how to do electronic soldering. Find a spot on the case where you can make a hole and mount a headphone jack, then wire it to the speakers. If you want the headphones to cut off the speakers when plugged in, you need a switching jack, and the speaker wires need to be cut and connected to the correct terminals. The switch built into the jack then disconnects the speakers when the headphone plug is in. If you don't need to turn off the speakers it's a little easier. You just need to wire from the jack to the speaker terminals. I've added jacks on quite a few sets. If you don't feel up to it and don't know anyone who is, you can see if a TV shop (if there are any left in your area!) would do it. (The shop I used to work for charged about $20, including the jack, but that was over 10 years ago now.)

Good luck, and thanks for using Fixya!

Hi,
When you heared or noticed any burnout components,most probably from the regulators/rectifiers/IC's/ voltage limiting dides/ etc,it means you're having a problem on your driver up main outputsection in your circuits ,you have to check steps by step,n most cases,like this HIGH POWER AMPLIFEIRs,its using a high wattage transistor/Mosfet particularly,
After replacing some faulty components,,Please,.kindly .do not connect immediately your expenssive speaker's,if you've 8ohms /50-100W dummyload parallel with your( ohmmeter on AC set), to monitor the ac abrupt dumping factor on the main output,
CAUTION;
When you noticed your amplifier is having a problem like poping sound/motorboating sounds/burned components and smell/trembling with low freq sound and etc,
Do not connect your speaker,specially HIGH POWERED OUTDOOR AMPLIFIERS just to avoid any damage or create fire, and extend some components damage on the circuits,
OPTIONS:
In deep repairing and troubleshooting in any electronic equipments, it needs complete diagnostic tools/schematics/techniques,...experience and observation sometimes is required,
IF YOU DONT HAVE IT,ITS BETTER TO BRING YOUR AMPLIFIER IN A SERVICE SHOP,
My friend,thanks and good luck,.

If your speakers are making this noise on switch on please disconnect them and check out if they the speakers are damaged by a continuity test of the impedance. It must show the marked resistance without a short. Then you are lucky. Next open the amplifier and check out on the output side and the power side for failure of mains capacitors/ output drivers/faulty coupling capacitors. Connect a resistance loaded test- speakers whenyou do this test .Switch on and put the set on fopr voltage checks from the output to the preamp. By a signal test you will be able to analyse the gain factor of all teh corresponding stages.It might be possible that your amp is old and some electrolytics have dried up.If so put the amp on for some considerable time and confirm if there is response building up on the controls and panels slowly. If so check onthe board for the suspected passive components and replace all suspected capacitors. Also resolder the main pcb for bad connectivity. I am surre this must work but attampt only if your are familiar to doing this repair. Good day

they might have problem the fuse..change this and and they working like a charm.