New Whirlpool washer model WTW5700SW rinse cycle doesn't worker properly. The water never fills the tub & continues to drain. You have to manually move the dial to the end of the rinse cycle to have it progress to the spin cycle. After this happens, the next wash cycle may or may not fill the tub...that is random.

So when the cycle first starts, it will fill and agitate and spin. But then on the rinse cycle it stops?

i've found problems with the temp. switch on this washer part number W10184148 and it's around 40 dollars,also on the rinse cycle the washer only uses cold water.what happens when you use just the hot?i had a lady that her water would start to fill and then the water would stop and the pipes in the house would start making a banging sound.if you order the part from http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Switch/W10184148/1468990 repair clinic and if this isn't your problem which i think it is from how you discribe it you can send the part back and get your money back for up to a year.good luck with your washer and next time you buy something and it doesn't work right get right on it

If your washer does not drain you need to check this parts.

1. Inspect the drain hose for kinks
2. Test the timer control
3. Test the lid switch(some models)
4. Inspect the water pump
5. Inspect the drive belt(belt drive only)
6. Inspect the motor coupler

If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

u need a new cold water valve, if u check the temp of the water while its filling it is mainly hot, or u have the hot nd cold hoses on the wrong way , as all rinses r cold

lift the end of the drain hose see if the tub fills and goes in the rinse cycle if it works you have a syphon problem if so make your drain pipe stand longer.

It sounds like a siphon issue.
Check that the drain hose does a high loop before it goes into the drain pipe. (ie. drain hose loops above the water level inside the tub). Make sure the drain hose is not pushed too far down into the drain pipe. Also if the drain hose is sealed to the drain pipe this will create an airlock and a siphon will occur, allow air to enter between drain hose and drain pipe connection.
This should help you but if there is still a problem let me know and I'll try to assist you further.
Good luck!

Check the drain hose. The open end of the pipe the hose drains into must be higher than the top of the washer's tub (usually 30 inches or so off the floor, minimum) or the water can siphon right out. The drain hose should not be a sealed connection to the drain pipe. Try to extend the drain pipe up to about 36 inches off the floor level.

your washers drain hose is too far down the drain pipe which is causing a siphoning action pull the washers drain hose out pipe some you should be able to hear water dropping into the pipe the reason it only happens in the rinse cycle is because the water from wash is being drained and before the water vacuum is broken the rinse water comes in causing it to keep draining

door switch bad?

First, make sure that you do not overload the machine.
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.



• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

• It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.



• It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.