I just installed my infinity reference 7541a amp with 4 sets of kappa perfect components. i was doing a road test for sound, though not excessively loud as to not DAMAGE THE @#(*$&@! EQUIPMENT, and suddenly everything went quiet. the i had the input levels at maybe 2/3, far from the whole load. didn't help apparently. now, the led's cycle between 'clip' and 'protect' whenever i attempt to turn on the car with the amplifier's turn on lead still connected. the amp felt pretty hot when i got it turned off, even though it had plenty of ventilation room. probably melted something, and if i did im going to be pretty steamed. the amp was running for all of 30-45 minutes, mostly at a really really low volume. when i read the manual, it said that the light sequence corresponds to DC voltage on the output, and that it probably needs to be servies already. i'd rather do it myself if it's an easy fix, after spending so much on my car i don't want to fork out more money for a repair guy. any possible solutions?
Same problem and found two capacitors blown on the two input channel sections.One for the rear channel C301 and the front C101.I have in mind that my input voltage was too high.I have a kicker KQ9 preamp equalizer that has a max input voltage of 10 volts but does not show output ,but I assume it can go higher that 10 since it is a preamp.My JVC head unit puts out 5volts max which is what the max of the 7541a.OOPs well now I need a schematic to try to replace the caps and see if that'll fix it.I guess I need an amp that will handle a preamp as I really like being able to set my equalization on the fly without having to keep pressing buttons :P
Same problem and found two capacitors blown on the two input channel sections.One for the rear channel C301 and the front C101.I have in mind that my input voltage was too high.I have a kicker KQ9 preamp equalizer that has a max input voltage of 10 volts but does not show output ,but I assume it can go higher that 10 since it is a preamp.My JVC head unit puts out 5volts max which is what the max of the 7541a.OOPs well now I need a schematic to try to replace the caps and see if that'll fix it.I guess I need an amp that will handle a preamp as I really like being able to set my equalization on the fly without having to keep pressing buttons :P
Hello all, I have the same problem. I'm just getting into car amp repair as i'm an electronics repair tech that i went to a tech college for. Anyway I bought an Infinity 7541a for $10 off of e-bay. The page described it exactly. The protect and clipping LED's cycle back and forth. Like you said the manual just says DC voltage proble and needs to be serviced. I did a few tests and don't think the power transistors/mosfets are blown i believe the output transistors are blown. I took my DVM and took the positive probe to the Positive B+ voltatage where you hook up power to the amp then took the negative probe and touched it to the back side of the power transistors/mosfets and got a reading of zero. Mind you the meter is set to the diode test setting and board out of enclosure. Now i have a brand new amp that is out of the enclosure that works fine and got the same reading. Then touched the negative probe to the back of the output transistors/mosfets and got no reading at all on the infinity amp. So I did the same to the working amp and the reading climbed until the meter reached its limit. Went back to the bad amp one more time and did the same test and still no reading. I'm thinking the output transistors are no good. Any help is greatly appriciated if anyone else has fixed thier Infinity 7541a amp. Please anyone let me know. Thanks
Hello all, I have the same problem. I'm just getting into car amp repair as i'm an electronics repair tech that i went to a tech college for. Anyway I bought an Infinity 7541a for $10 off of e-bay. The page described it exactly. The protect and clipping LED's cycle back and forth. Like you said the manual just says DC voltage proble and needs to be serviced. I did a few tests and don't think the power transistors/mosfets are blown i believe the output transistors are blown. I took my DVM and took the positive probe to the Positive B+ voltatage where you hook up power to the amp then took the negative probe and touched it to the back side of the power transistors/mosfets and got a reading of zero. Mind you the meter is set to the diode test setting and board out of enclosure. Now i have a brand new amp that is out of the enclosure that works fine and got the same reading. Then touched the negative probe to the back of the output transistors/mosfets and got no reading at all on the infinity amp. So I did the same to the working amp and the reading climbed until the meter reached its limit. Went back to the bad amp one more time and did the same test and still no reading. I'm thinking the output transistors are no good. Any help is greatly appriciated if anyone else has fixed thier Infinity 7541a amp. Please anyone let me know. Thanks
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Try first to disconnect all of the speakers on the amp. See if the amp will turn on now. If not , the amp has bad output devices, or drivers, and or the switch mode power supply is fried. There is no easy fix with solid state elctronics as there are no user serviceable parts inside. The units going to need to be repaired by a service tech unless you know how to solder, unsolder, test mosfets, transistors, and diodes as well as resistor.
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The button you might be referring to is actually a little speaker. Its produces the high frequency sounds from that area.
If you look up infinity 3 way you will see 2 "buttons" in the front, smaller one is the high frequency sounds and the middle sized one is the mid frequency.
one of those wires on your speakers is the common ground for both sets of wires in your camaro, Just take the negative wire from both sets of wires and run it to the single wire on your new speakers. The other 2 are positive from each wire. good luck
You can use the factory speaker wiring for the Infinity speakers you should purchase a amp kit which will give you everything to install the amp. See site below
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18428_Raptor+ISPKBL4-BG+by+Metra.html
Well that all depends on the current audio system you have now is it just a basic or a premium factory system with a factory amp. Honestly you would get a better and cleaner sound if you change the factory head unit to a after market one which has preamp feeds and the higher the preout volt the better. Just make sure it is compatible with the amp volts input (Example 4v to 250mv) If you use the factory headunit you would have to by a high to preout adapter it connects to the exsiting radios speaker leads, but like I said before change the head unit you won't be sorry. Do not forget if you change the radio you need a radio install kit and the wiring harrness which converts the two radio plugs so you don't cut them so down the road you can remove the after market radio and just replug the factory right back in.
Hello pianopeter, I have the same amp with the same problem but only when the crossover mode switch on the front channel is set to low pass or high pass. Have'nt fixed that yet cause when I got the amp and put power to it the clip and protect lights would flash back and forth. I turned out to have 2 bad output transistors on the right front channel, I replaced them and amp works great now. Then when I was doing final testing I switched the crossover mode switch to lowpass and your problem occured. I do believe the problem is in the removable board which controls the controls the crossover and input to a point. Try moving the crossover mode switch to flat on both front and rear and let me know if amp works fine that way. I'll be working on this problem soon but would like to know if your problem changes if you move the switch to flat. Please leave me a message as soon as you find out cause this will aid in the process of me fixing problem. I am an electronics tech and buy and fix broken amps all the time so I have a really good knowledge of car amp repair. Once again let me know ASAP, Thanks
I guess the question you need to ask yourself then is how much money are you willing to spend? If you are looking for a sound quality system then it WILL cost a lot more than a DB all out BASS system. The system that you have picked out isn't a bad one but as with all systems this in only half the story. You will need to have it installed well to get the best from the speakers that you have chosen too. If you want to have the stealth look in the cabin then it's pretty simple, but you will not get the best sound quality or should I say imaging as the OEM locations usually are no good for this.
I would suggest that even though you keep things looking stealthy in the cabin apply sound deadening to the doors as Asian cars are generally quite tinny unlike German cars. This will make a big difference in terms of overall sound quality & help keep out the road noise so you can hear every little detail of your personalised system.
Same problem and found two capacitors blown on the two input channel sections.One for the rear channel C301 and the front C101.I have in mind that my input voltage was too high.I have a kicker KQ9 preamp equalizer that has a max input voltage of 10 volts but does not show output ,but I assume it can go higher that 10 since it is a preamp.My JVC head unit puts out 5volts max which is what the max of the 7541a.OOPs well now I need a schematic to try to replace the caps and see if that'll fix it.I guess I need an amp that will handle a preamp as I really like being able to set my equalization on the fly without having to keep pressing buttons :P
Hello all, I have the same problem. I'm just getting into car amp repair as i'm an electronics repair tech that i went to a tech college for. Anyway I bought an Infinity 7541a for $10 off of e-bay. The page described it exactly. The protect and clipping LED's cycle back and forth. Like you said the manual just says DC voltage proble and needs to be serviced. I did a few tests and don't think the power transistors/mosfets are blown i believe the output transistors are blown. I took my DVM and took the positive probe to the Positive B+ voltatage where you hook up power to the amp then took the negative probe and touched it to the back side of the power transistors/mosfets and got a reading of zero. Mind you the meter is set to the diode test setting and board out of enclosure. Now i have a brand new amp that is out of the enclosure that works fine and got the same reading. Then touched the negative probe to the back of the output transistors/mosfets and got no reading at all on the infinity amp. So I did the same to the working amp and the reading climbed until the meter reached its limit. Went back to the bad amp one more time and did the same test and still no reading. I'm thinking the output transistors are no good. Any help is greatly appriciated if anyone else has fixed thier Infinity 7541a amp. Please anyone let me know. Thanks
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