There is no sound output from my 800a2 regardless of input level from the source unit. The amp is getting all the proper voltage, remote lead, ground, source signal, etc. the power led comes on, and the amp itself is drawing 15 amp's at idle. (increasing input voltage does not change the amp's current draw.) I checked all the switches, gains, etc. I took the amp apart and inspected everything visually, everything looks like new, no burnt smell. I am pretty handy with a soldering gun and a v.o.m. Do you have any ideas or suggestions for me to try?...THANKS..
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I'm thinking you have an open shield ground on the RCA input side. Connecting speaker inputs possibly restores the ground. Try connecting the high level inputs then disconnect the remote end of the cables (floating the grounds).
Then get out an ohmmeter and find that open circuitor or bad solder joint between RCA ground and real ground in the speaker's amplifier. Or.... if speaker ground kills the hum and you want to use RCA Line Level input to the sub, just connect one minus speaker output on your source amp to one minus on the sub's amp.
Here's how it goes:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.
Tap into a signal wire (rear speaker wire) using a line level converter.
These convert the High level speaker wire output into low level RCA output that is accepted by your amplifier.
Get a good one Pacific Accessory Corporation (PAC) sni-35 is the best IMO.
The TRUNK-LOC is the SAME as the SNI-35 - but it incorporates a voltage sensing input - so you dont need to run an additional turn-on wire. The voltage is sensed through the speaker wire - and it turns on the amplifier.
Then you will need a fused power wire from the battery,
Ground to chassis, and remote turn on lead (if you use a standard line level adapter).
An amplifier installation kit will give you everything you need to add 1 amplifier (except the converter)
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If you are not getting sound from any of the 4 channels, I'd suspect that either the amp is not getting an input signal or the amp itself is faulty.
Here's the "no sound" troubleshooting step-by-step procedure from the JL manual:
1) Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone is played through the source unit (disconnect the input cables from the amplifier prior to this test). The frequency used should be in the range that is to be amplified by the amplifier (example; 50 Hz for a sub bass application or 1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application). A steady, sufficient voltage (between 200mV and 5.O-volts) should be present at the output of the signal cables.
2) Check the output of the amplifier. Using the procedure explained in the previous check item (after plugging the input cables back into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the amplifier. Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels, it is a good idea to remove the Speaker Connector Plugs from the amplifier while doing this. Turn the volume up approximately half way. 5V or more should be measured at the speaker outputs. This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half volume. If you are reading sufficient voltage, check your speaker connections as explained below.
3) Check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a good connection with the metal inside the Speaker Connector Plugs. The speaker wire connectors are designed to accept up to 12 AWG wire. Make sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection with the metal inside each terminal.
Turn on thump can vary from a slight pop to a mind shattering, teeth rattling BOOM! This thump is caused by the audio circuitry stabilizing when power is applied. Most amplifiers and source units have muting circuitry that lasts a couple of seconds to allow these fluctuations to subside before passing a signal. However, if the amplifier un-mutes before the source unit or any other accessory, you better watch out. Here are some things to try if you have turn on thump.
Verify that the amp has a good audio ground reference. In order for the amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.
Don't install the system so the amplifiers can be switched on when the source unit is turned off.
If you still have thump, add a turn on delay module in line with the remote turn on wire to the amp.
Also called speaker level inputs, an input on an amplifier specifically designed for higher voltage and lower impedance signals, typically between 1.2 to 12 volts and 4 to 8 ohms, as found on the outputs of low powered speaker connections. Hi-level inputs are commonly used as an easy and convenient upgrade path to connect factory-installed head units to after-market amplifiers.
high level inputs are less subjected to interference and can travel further without signal loss.
Factory radios do not have dedicated outputs for amplifiers (preamp outputs). So you'll want an amplifier with speaker-level (often called high-level) inputs; these inputs enable you to tap into the factory speaker wires for a signal flow.
They're called high-level inputs because the voltage level is significantly higher than with a standard preamp output connection. These inputs convert the high voltage to one the amplifier can handle. Once connected, you'll hear clean, well-defined sound (including the lyrics to your favorite song).
Speaker-level inputs are a standard of many two- and four-channel, and mono subwoofer amplifiers.
All the power wires no the amp will be ran the same with the exception of the remote turn on wire. +12v constant will still go to the battery(properly fused with 12" of the battery!), and the ground will still go to the chassis. You can hook the remote turn on to the +12v ignition wire behind the radio, or the equivilent fuse in the fuse box. I would not recomend hooking it up to the pwr ant wire on the stock deck as it often goes off when the radio is off, or cd is playing.
As I said, most cars have no issues with any of this, but cars with "PREMIUM SOUND" systems often do not mesh well with aftermarket equipment. Fords JBL or chrystlers infinity (And bose in darn near anything!) are often cause issues. Sometimes you can easily bypass this system(Ford), sometimes you have little choice but to rip it all out and start fresh(Bose). I can walk you through the scenarios for most makes and models, but certainly do not have the time or patience to give every one. Hit me up on the forum and I will be happy to help you further....
12 VOLT FROM THE BATTERY SOURCE GOES TO 12VOLT BATT CONNECTION.12 VOLT GROUND RETURN MUST BE FIXED TO THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE.SOME VEHICLES HAVE FACTORY GROUNDS UP HIGH ON THE SIDES OF MOST VEHICLES, U CAN USE THIS GROUND LOCATION. IF CONNECT REMOTE WIRE FROM THE RADIOS REMOTE TURN ON LEAD WHICH IS A BLUE/WHITE WIRE OR A STANDARD BLUE IF ITS JUST ONE BLUE WIRE. CONNECT THIS LEAD TO THE REMOTE TURN ON CONNECTION ON THE AMP , SOME KENWOODS HAVE TWO ,INPUT AND OUTPUT LEADS.U ALSO NEED A TEST LIGHT, OR U CAN USE A SPEAKER TO TEST FOR POWER AT UR CONNECTION.IF U USE A TEST LIGHT , CLAMP THE END U WOULD GROUND TO THE VEHICLE, TO THE AMPS GROUND, THEN TOUCH THE PROBE END OF THE TEST LIGHT TO UR WIRED CONNECTION TO VERIFY U HAVE POWER AND GROUND TO YOUR CONNECTION.IF TEST LIGHT DOESN'T WORK ,CHECK UR FUSE AND REMOTE TURN OR LEADS.
It's possible (probable) that the head unit has a blown internal amplifier IC. Measure the DC voltage on each of the 8 speaker wires on the head unit. Place the black lead on the chassis of the head unit. Probe each wire with the red lead. All should read approximately 1/2 of the voltage on the yellow wire. If you get some that are significantly higher or lower, disconnect all speaker wires from the harness and measure again. If the voltage is still not ~1/2 of the voltage on the yellow wire, the IC is almost certainly defective.
For the external amp, you need to check the shield ground for the head unit. The following page shows you how.
You need to confirm that you have 12v DC on the remote turn-on and B+ terminals of the amp.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.