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Film advance isn't working ricoh 35 mm - Ricoh KR-30SP 35mm SLR Camera

Posted by Anonymous on

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3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: Ricoh XR-10 35mm SLR camera

stevdan,

take the screws off the bottom cover. there is a small lever pointing toward the front of camera with a black screw on it. gently move it to the left, this will release the lock lever. Now advance the lever and the shutter should fire. if not, it is not repairable. no parts
.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 44 Answers

SOURCE: sears ks-2/ricoh xr-7 film advance and shutter release problem

You probably need to take the camera in for repair. It sounds like the film transport is not connected to the shutter/mirror cage ***'y.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: My Ricoh KR-5 won't keep the film door closed. How

The film doors in most 35mm SLR's is spring loaded with a release from the rewind knob. Chances are your spring has lost tension, slipped out of place, or the teeth that grab the door have been damaged. You can always use the handyman's secret weapon (duct tape) to fix the problem, but if you're looking for a more permanent and less gooey and unattractive solution you're going to need to find a shop.

If there aren't any locally, you can find some online, or google KEH Camera if you're not sure who online is reputable. It'll run you $35 for a repair estimate which is waived if you decide to have the work done. Keep in mind some parts, for some cameras, are hard or impossible to come by so your model may or may not be able to be repaired, or may be priced outside of what you're willing to pay to have repaired.

Posted on Sep 09, 2011

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If you had a compact camera it would say 10x zoom what is the equivilent in a 70mm -300mm tamron

A 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you'll get the result.

It is usually better to know what the focal length of a lens in "35 mm equivalent" is and judge by that, rather than relying on the "X" power of the lens. For instance, most point and shoot cameras start at about 35 mm and have either a 3X or 4X zoom. This would make it a 35-105 or a 35-140. I've seen some that start at 28 mm, though. A 3X starting at 28 mm is 28-84 and a 4X is 28-112. Neither one is a particularly strong telephoto lens and the 4X is just about the same as the 3X that starts out at 35 mm.

It's also important to realize that tradition dictates that lens focal lengths are usually expressed in terms of "35 mm equivalent," where "35 mm" refers to a 35 mm film camera. This is because of the relation between the sensor size and the actual focal length of the lens and the resultant angle of view of the lens.

I have one point & shoot that is actually a 5.8-24 mm zoom. This is a 4X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 28-116 mm. The sensor is 7.2x5.3 mm. (1/1.8") (And I wish I knew someone who could explain how the heck they came up with sensor size terminology!)

I have another point & shoot that is actually a 5.7-17.1 mm zoom. This is a 3X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 34-102 mm. "How could a shorter focal length give a longer 35 mm equivalent?" you might ask. It's because the sensor is only about 5x4 mm. (1/2.5")

I have a few Nikon DSLR's and - thankfully - they all have the same size sensor. They all have a "lens factor" of 1.5. This means that you just multiply the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then you can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera. Most Canon's, for instance, have a lens factor of 1.6. On a Nikon DSLR, a 28 mm lens is the "35 mm equivalent" of a 42 mm lens. On most Canon DSLR's, the same 28 mm lens is the equivalent of a 45 mm lens.

These example are just to show you how freaking confusing it can all become if you try to make sense of the "X" power of a zoom lens.

Bottom line...

Check the 35 mm equivalent specifications for the lens. This way, you will be leveling the field and comparing apples to apples. More or less.
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My Ricoh KR-5 won't keep the film door closed. How

The film doors in most 35mm SLR's is spring loaded with a release from the rewind knob. Chances are your spring has lost tension, slipped out of place, or the teeth that grab the door have been damaged. You can always use the handyman's secret weapon (duct tape) to fix the problem, but if you're looking for a more permanent and less gooey and unattractive solution you're going to need to find a shop.

If there aren't any locally, you can find some online, or google KEH Camera if you're not sure who online is reputable. It'll run you $35 for a repair estimate which is waived if you decide to have the work done. Keep in mind some parts, for some cameras, are hard or impossible to come by so your model may or may not be able to be repaired, or may be priced outside of what you're willing to pay to have repaired.
Sep 08, 2011 • Photography
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35 mm, Minolta X700

Is the re-wind button stuck in? If so it can be released by moving the take-up sprocket manually. If that did not work there is a broken take up gear. This was a common problem with the X700, a white plastic gear was used at the bottom of the take up spool mechanism that just was not strong enough especially when trying to get just one more shot from the roll of film. No new parts are available.
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NIKON PRONEA S

No, the camera uses APS, ( advanced photo system ) type film.
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