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Question about Kenwood KAC-9102D Car Audio Amplifier

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Amp protection problem

I think I've done every thing, I've change the wiring from 8ga to 4ga, I put a cap on the line to stablize the power supply but the amp will still shut down after a while. I'm running one mtx 7500 12" at 4ohms the recommend power is 400 watts, with this amp I'm pushing 500 watts to it would that cause a short in the speaker? the amp is not that warm when it goes into protection.

Posted by arttyr art on

  • arttyr art Sep 20, 2006

    please help me

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Anonymous

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I run one sub on my Kenwood Amp also. It does over heat also. My conclusion is that we are both trying to push that one sub too hard and the amp is having to work really hard to make that sub do what we are asking. Also, not having enough power or a good ground will cause it to over heat. I am going to go with the voice coils are heating up though.

Posted on Dec 06, 2006

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1helpful
1answer

I have a 300 Watt dual amplifier connected to one 12" kicker dvc sub at 2 ohms. Every time the volume is turned up the protect light turns on. I had 2 of these kickers wired to a Rockford amp a week...

Then you have found your problem. It's internal on the amp. Protection circuitry issue. Have it Benched at a shop with the same impedance you are running it at. If it benches ok, check your ground, it should be no longer than 18" and go directly to the floor frame, not a seat bolt. You should also be running at least
4ga power as well. Hope this helps.
0helpful
1answer

Can i hook this amp to a 2 channle out put stereo?

Sure. Specs are listed below. I think it's designed for regular 2-channel input, isn't it?

jturcotte_41.jpg

Front Channels: 100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)
  • Rear Channels: 25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm(11V-14.5V)
  • Subwoofer Channel: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)
  • THD at Rated Power: <0.03% @ 4 ohm (F&R), <0.05% @ 4 ohm (Sub)
  • S/N Ratio (F&R): >108.5 dB below rated power S/N Ratio (Sub): >95 dB below rated power
  • Frequency Response (front and rear): 5 Hz-30 KHz (+0, -1dB)
  • Frequency Response (sub channel): 5 Hz-500 Hz (+0, -1dB)
  • Damping Factor (front and rear): >200 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz
  • Damping Factor (sub channel): >500 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz
  • Input Range: switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS
  • Differential-Balanced Input Topology: (3 pairs of inputs)
  • Front Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope BP or HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)
  • Rear Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)
  • Sub Crossover: fully-variable (40-200 Hz), selectable-slope LP (12 or 24 dB per octave)
  • Preamp Output: 2-channel (full-range or LP)
  • Bass EQ: Variable boost up to 15db
  • Infrasonic Filter: defeatable 24dB/octave at 30 Hz
  • Left minus Right Ambience Circuit: ambient effect for rear channels
  • Front and rear speaker output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire
  • Dual mono subwoofer output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire
  • +12V and Ground connections: accept up to 4ga. Wire
  • Dimensions: 19.7"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H
  • 2helpful
    1answer

    I am purchasing a kicker solo x 12inch and installing it into a crown vic. can i hook it up like a regular sub power from batt to cap and amp or do i need to have an extra power source like another battery...

    4Ga wire should be plenty for your application.
    If you're concerned - run (2) lengths of 4Ga - its cheaper than 0.
    A battery only extends the playing time of your system with the vehicle off.
    Your car runs off alternator power - and it is recommended you upgrade the alternator to a High capacity one to properly supply voltage to your amplifier.
    A capacitor is a cheap bandaid that will prolong the life of your stock alternator - but eventually - the alternator will die from the lage demands placed on it.
    Put the battery and cap money toward a High Output alternator.

    Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
    0helpful
    1answer

    I dont Know what guage of wires to use with my Amp

    8ga will be fine with the amp listed, but if you plan on upgrading in the future, then go ahead, and buy the bigger wire. 4ga +. See at the time of purchase there is only about $20 difference between 8ga, and 4ga kits, but if you go with the smaller wire for now, and then upgrade later on, you end up paying double for yopur wire, and double for your install (if you arent doing it yourself).
    0helpful
    1answer

    WHY DOES MY AMP CONTINUE TO BLOW ITS FUSE ..I HAVE A 4GA AMP KIT ON IT ......IS THAT TO BIG ..I DONT EVEN HAVE ANY SUBS HOOKED TO IT ..VISONIK V107SX

    go with an 8GA wire and see what that does for you because the battery is sending power to an amp but the amp cannot transfer all of that power anywhere without speakers being ran to it if you think 8GA is to small then try running a fuse in with your 4GA
    0helpful
    1answer

    Protect mode on 475a

    Yes if your wires are to small they dont supply enough power to the amp and it will shut down..Also the ground..Check all connections for tightness and that none of the wires are touching or grounding out...Hope this helps you and have a great day

    I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

    0helpful
    2answers

    POssibly Blown amp? Please help

    disconnect all power cables.make a short between terminals G&P G&R then try amp without any speakers connected.
    0helpful
    2answers

    Audiobahn A1500HCT in Protection Mode

    try just hooking up a power wire and ground wire only. disconnect your subs from your amp along with the remote wire and RCA's. if you have some jumper wires or run a wire from the power terminal to the remote wire. YOUR amp should come on, if it still stay's in protection mode it might be shot... hope this was helpful, i couldn get my a2300hcx to come on and tryed this and it came on turns out it was my remote wire was bad of the head unit...
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