Washer kenmore washer coulping good but still spins slow needhelp to start spining is there a kit that goes in the transmission, and is it difficult to install? thank you dave

This may be a motor coulping problem. I replaced mine today on a Kenmore it took 30 minutes time and a $25. part picked up locally. Was able to get a good diagram on line to take the housing off the machine and move the necessary parts to get to the coulping. Smile, clean clothes are not far away!

spining problems notmally are caused because the clutch, the coppler motor or the timer. The timer is the more expensive one. Does spin slow enough for you to stop it wuith your hands? If it does then is not the timer.

Make certain that the spin speed is where you want it (e.g.: high spin). Also, make certain that you aren't overloading the washer. A heavier load will slow down the spin.

You may have a worn drive belt (loss its tension on the pulley). Contact an appliance service company.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.23812100

Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


If you can hear the motor and the washer drains during the spin cycle the Motor Coupler and Lid Switch (the usual problems with these washers) are not the problem.

These washers use a clutch which allows the "basket tube" to spin up to speed during the spin cycle.

If the clutch bands or springs are worn or damaged, the transmission cannot transmit power to the basket tube for spining.

See the following on how to remove the cabinet,agitators, basket, pump, transmission and basket tube. (It's not as difficult as it sounds.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Instead of using a special spanner wrench on the spanner nut, I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked onto one of the tabs on the nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen the nut. I also put a short piece of wood under the Basket Drive Block and hit the wood instead of the drive block directly.

Check the clutch bands and springs and the tabs on top of the basket tube and the slots in the basket drive block.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again.

The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR

ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.26732503

The first thing to check and make sure of is that the two tabs on top of the Drive Tube are fit into the correct slots in the Drive Block and that the "washer" that fits on top of the Drive Shaft (Two prongs) is mounted.

Replacing the Drive Block shouldn't affect any of the timing.

When we had to replace the Agitate Cams in the transmission on ours, we found that the agitator will turn when the washer goes into the spin cycle. This isn't hurting anything and apparently helps spin the fabric softener unit.

The brake only affects the tub and not the agitators.

It's possible that the Agitate Cams aren't raising the "Agitate Gear" fully above the Connecting Rack when the washer goes into drain and spin mode.

Following is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of top load, direct drive washers. It has a very good explanation of how the transmission works when switching from agitate to spin.

It isn't too difficult to pull the cover off the transmission but it is a messy job.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Also check the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.26912691


Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 16Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, the kit cost us $15.00 which is a lot less than the $170 for a new transmission.

washer may not be spining at all start in rinse cycle allow washer to wash and advance through cycle on it's own do not advance manually..after agitation listen for short pause after pause pump out should begin after pump out should be another short pause then spin should start..if spin does not start after 2nd pause suspect transmission if lid is raised spin may start but if it doesn't start during normal operation bad gearcase one other ck possible look underneath for oil it may be getting on clutch causing clutch to slip and not allow to spin full speed

If it goes through the complete cycle o.k. except for the slow spin then the motor itself needs to be checked.

Doesnt make any sense why the motor goes off and on. If I read your email correctly. some typos on your email. but, sounds like the belt is too big. Or the spring device that keeps the belt tight is not working properly. You need to make sure what ever it is that keeps that belt tight is working properly or not damaged. The belt is very important to making the spin work good. Match it up with your old belt. The old belt will be slightly longer because of being stretched over a period of time. Get your unit number and model number and go to your nearest dealer and get the correct belt.