Installing new shaft assembly SPX2700SA - Hayward 1 12 Hp Super Swimming Pool Pump Sp2610x15

YOU CAN"T is the short answer..... sorry,, RTM much>?
ive posted the free fsm like 300 times now on this car.
ever like search.?
first off, on all cars made, what the factory made or dealer sells ins one thing, what the after market does, is another.
a fact.
in fact some cars with Integrated hubs new, the aftermarket sells them and sells the rebuild kits too.
the book covers the service step by step.
what parts you use or by is your call.

now ill read that book for you.
btw I sold my 99 but not the books.
XJ jeep, the book is here, (over 301 posted,)

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

at least you said its 4wd, not all are. 2points for that.

USA XJ jeep, 1998.
1988 pages.
the trick is learning how to navigate the book , chapter #
the fact is we look first, you didn't, what is there who knows.?
maybe the last shop put on serviceable hubs. right?
if you had looked at the back side, you'd have seen 3 bolts
holding it on. and that tells you what?, that they are integrated hubs.
on new car, and at Jeep parts counters. world wide.



now lets do this backwards
lets pretend to buy the part, hark , you can online.
and see all the makers of parts aftermarket in 1 click
no kidding, a fact.
see the 8 makers here,(can be more)
all are 100% integrated, hubs, (not saying there are not other makers, or kits, the world is a huge place and I cant tell you
all answers world wide for sources)

you could off them, take them both to a shop, and ask for them to rebuild them at $100 /hr labor, but, i bet they just laugh at you.
I'm not. but why not just remove it , check it and if bad replace it.
take it to any auto-store in town, NAPA is best. and set it on the counter, and say, got this, answer yes.
how to repack unpackable bearings,.DIY.

shorter answer, R&R it.
get a shop to fix it.
buy the part first, and see what you got first.
look at it and ponder packing it.

Here you are - power rack & pinion.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1

1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.

1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.

Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly

1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.

To install:

1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
2. Install the heat shield.
3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.

2.2L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.

Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.

1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.

To Install:

1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
7. Remove the jack.
8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Remove the support fixture.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

3.1L Engine (VIN M)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.

To Install:

1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
7. Remove the jack.
8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Remove the support fixture.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

You aren't saying what engine is in it, or whether it is manual or power steering. Here is the R/R procedure for power steering rack for all engine sizes.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1

1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.

1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.

Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly

1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.

To install:

1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
2. Install the heat shield.
3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.

2.2L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.

Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.

1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.

To Install:

1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
7. Remove the jack.
8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Remove the support fixture.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

3.1L Engine (VIN M)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.

To Install:

1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
7. Remove the jack.
8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Remove the support fixture.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Its not to bad .You will need to purchase a shift shaft a shift shaft seal and a primary cover gasket and oil.First drain your oil.Remove your kick starter .Remove your primary cover.Remove entire clutch assembly.You will need air gun or a clutch holding tool to remove the clutch.Once you have the clutch assembly removed yuo can remove the shift shaft .Pay attention to the postion of the shift shaft in relation to the shift drum .Also pay attention to any shims on the shift shaft as that will need to be installed on the new one.Now remove the seal that the shaft was coming out of.Replace the seal install the new shift shaft.Make sure to center it in relation to the shift drum.clean every thing with brake cleaner.clean gasket area .Install the clutch assembly .If you have any trouble with the oriantation of the parts you can look at world of power sports for parts diagrams.Make sure you tighten the clutch hub to the proper torque spec.I would use blue loc tight on the nut as well .If you have a shop do it expect to pay about 2 hours labor max.Plus parts

I would replace the complete axle assembly,
it would be cheaper and come with a warranty.

Instructions

1. Remove the CV Joint
   • Remove the boot straps from the CV joint using a standard screwdriver or a pair of diagonal cutting pliers.
   • Slide the boot back over the interconnecting shaft.

   • Get Chevrolet Info at InsideLine Free News, Videos, Photos & More!
     Detach the stop ring at the base of the CV joint assembly using a pair of snap ring pliers.
     

   • Pull the CV joint assembly from the interconnecting shaft to force the snap ring at the top of the shaft through the CV joint assembly.
   • Tilt the inner cage (the cage holding the balls in place inside the housing) in different angles to remove the six balls. Use your thumb or a hammer and a wooden dowel, if necessary.
   • Tilt the inner cage enough to remove it from its housing.
   • Rotate the race inside the cage--the part that holds the balls against the inner cage--and remove the race from the cage.
     Replace the CV Joint
     • Apply a thick coat of grease to the new CV joint race using special high temperature/high pressure grease (see Tips below).
     • Install the race inside the new cage. Then install the cage/race assembly inside the CV joint housing.
     • Tilt the cage at different angles and fit the new balls in place.
     • Slide a new CV joint rubber boot over the interconnecting shaft.
     • Install a new snap and stop ring on the interconnecting shaft.
     • Push the interconnecting shaft through the CV joint assembly to force the snap ring through the assembly.
     • Apply a thick coat of CV joint grease to all moving parts of the assembly.
     • Apply a coat of CV joint grease to the inside of the rubber boot. Then slide the boot over the CV joint assembly.
     • Install the boot straps at each end of the boot, and tighten the straps using a clamp tool or screwdriver, depending on the type of clamp.
     
     
     

what about it?

conventional axle or limited slip? Get axle code off door sticker.

SECTION 205-02: Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal -4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI, Conventional
Special Tool(s) Axle Seal Replacer
T83T-1175-A Axle Wheel Bearing Puller
T83T-1225-A Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer
T83T-1225-B Driver Handle
T80T-4000-W Impact Slide Hammer
T50T-100-A
Removal

1. Remove the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

Axle Shaft Removal

1. CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized lug nut. Heat can damage the wheel (1007) and the rear wheel bearings (1225).
   Loosen the lug nuts (1012).
   1. Remove the center cap.
   1. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the lug nuts.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   1. Remove the lug nuts.
   1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

1. Remove the axle housing cover (4033).
   1. Loosen the axle housing cover bolts (4346) and drain the rear axle (4001).
   1. Remove the axle housing cover bolts.
   1. Remove the axle housing cover.

1. Remove the rear disc brake rotors (2C026); refer to Section 206-04 .

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft (4211) has been removed, turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Remove the U-washers (4N237).
   1. Push the axle shafts inboard.
   1. Remove the U-washers.

1. Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177).
   Remove the two axle shafts.

Installation

1. Lubricate the lip of the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft has been removed, turning the differential case or an axle shaft will cause the differential pinion gears to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   Install the two axle shafts.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Install the U-washers.
   1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts.
   1. Pull the axle shafts outward.

1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the differential pinion shaft lock bolt hole.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.

1. Install the rear disc brake rotors; refer to Section 206-04 .

1. Install the axle housing cover and fill the rear axle housing (4010) with 2.4 liters (5.5 pints) of specified lubricant; refer to Axle Housing Cover in this section.

1. WARNING: Always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material that may be present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub or rear disc brake rotor that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nut to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control.
   Clean the wheel hub and mounting surfaces.

1. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Position the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle.
   1. Tighten the lug nuts.
   1. Install the center cap.

1. CAUTION: Never remove the axle shaft oil seal by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal at the same time.
   NOTE: If the axle shaft oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with debris.
   Use Impact Slide Hammer and Axle Wheel Bearing Puller to remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal.

Installation

1. Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
   1. Use Thermally Stable Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.

1. Use Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer with Driver Handle to install the rear wheel bearing.

1. Lubricate the lip of the new axle shaft oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. Use Axle Seal Replacer with Driver Handle to install the axle shaft oil seal.

1. Install the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

Removal & Installation

1. Remove the oil pan.
   
2. Remove the oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly.
   
3. Remove the oil pump attaching bolts. Lower the oil pump, gasket, and intermediate driveshaft from the crankcase.
   
4. To install, prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body.
   

6-cylinder oil pump disassembled



V8 oil pump disassembled

2. Position the intermediate driveshaft into the distributor socket. With the shaft firmly seated in the socket, the stop on the shaft should contact the roof of the crankcase. Remove the shaft and position the stop as necessary.
   
4. Insert the intermediate driveshaft into the oil pump. Using a new gasket, install the pump and shaft as an assembly. Do not attempt to force the pump into position if it will not seat readily. If necessary, rotate the intermediate driveshaft hex into a new position so that it will mesh with the distributor shaft.
   
5. Torque the oil pump attaching bolts to 10–15 ft. lbs. on the 6-cylinder engines, and 22–32 ft. lbs. on the 302 V8.
   
6. Clean and install the inlet tube and screen assembly.
   
7. Install the oil pan
   

Stabilizer Bar: Service and Repair
Front
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft link nuts from the stabilizer shaft.
4. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator clamps from the front crossmember.
5. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the stabilizer shaft, insulator clamps and bolts to the crossmember.
2. Install the stabilizer shaft links to the stabilizer shaft.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the stabilizer shaft link nuts.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nuts to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts to 58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
6. Lower the vehicle.



Stabilizer Bar: Service and Repair
Rear
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft link nuts from the stabilizer shaft.
4. Remove the stabilizer shaft clamps, bolts and nuts retaining the shaft to the crossmember.
5. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the stabilizer shaft to the vehicle.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator clamps to the stabilizer shaft and the crossmember.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts to 65 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp nuts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the stabilizer shaft links to the stabilizer shaft.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nuts to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
5. Lower the vehicle.

Did you change the carrier bearing. It will be cheap compared to a transmission and new drive shaft. Got 1 in my shop right now. Customer did not listen. Check that carrier bearing Cost $1350vs $50

On vehicles covered by this information that are equipped with a two-piece rear driveshaft assembly, the center support bearing may be removed for replacement. To be sure if your driveshaft may be serviced, check with your local parts supplier or dealer for parts availability information.

1. Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft assembly. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
2. Remove the strap retaining the rubber cushion from the bearing support.
3. Pull the support bracket from the rubber cushion and the cushion from the bearing.
4. Press the bearing assembly from the halfshaft.

To install:

1. Assemble the center support bearing to the driveshaft:
   1. If removed, install the inner deflector onto the front shaft half and ***** punch the deflector at 2 opposite points to make sure it is tight on the shaft.
   2. Fill the space between the inner dust shield and bearing with lithium soap grease.
   3. Start the bearing and slinger assembly straight onto the shaft journal. Support the shaft and using a length of pipe over the splined end of the shaft, press the bearing and inner slinger against the shoulder of the front shaft half.
   4. Install the bearing retainer, the rubber cushion onto bearing, the bracket onto the cushion and the retaining strap.
   
   
2. Align and install the driveshaft assembly to the vehicle.

Prepare your tie rod and install the grease fitting provided with it. 1. Jack up vehicle and secure on jack stand 2. Remove wheel 3. Turn steering wheel so that access is best to the tie rod assembly. 4. Loosen jam nut on tie rod.Do not disturb or turn this more than what is needed to make it loose from the tie rod as this will be your rough reference point and at least close when installing new tie rod. 5. Remove cotter pin from castle nut where tie rod attaches to spindle assembly. 6. Remove castle nut 7. Remove tie rod from spindle assembly - Free with a hammer striking it on the castle nut shaft to drive it out of the hole. 8. un-thread tie rod from tie rod shaft holding the shaft still with vice grip or other pliers. 9. Install tie rod on shaft until it meets the jam nut. 10. Insert tie rod to spindle, tighten, and install new cotter pin in castle nut. 11. Tighten jam nut 12. Grease tie rod assembly 13. Install wheel and have aligned. Do not skip having this aligned regardless of how it drives, post repair as tie rods absolute length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Your final alignment will not be accurate until it is set on a rack with an alignment machine.