Hi i need some help on what could be the problem with my speaker. when i turn it on the copper rounded coil gets very hot so quick ? is the problem on the power board or is it the copper coil ?? they have a 110 -230 switch on the back an i think that someone my have turned it on to 110 ? would do it if so what do i need to fix any help woul be great thank you for your time... mike
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Pins look like this: (Top view, not copper side) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
1 = Thin white wire from thick white cable (Left input) 2 = Gray (Speaker out) 3 = Orange (+V return from volume unit to bass unit) 4 = Not connected 5 = Thin Red wire from thick red wire (Right input) 6 = Blue (+V power from bass unit to volume unit) 7 = Black (GND - if socket removed, solder 3 socket shield holes to each other or solder black wire directly leftmost hole) 8 = Not connected 9 = Shield copper from thick red wire
Shield copper from thick wire : Solder to GND or Left unconnected
If it were me i would go with this. http://www.apexjr.com/inf.html $60usd not a bad deal and it looks like they throw a crossover in with it. It is actually the amp meant for your speakers.
Hi,
You dont say what the size of the hole is but if not too large you could try one of the proprietry products like rad weld. Powerded mustard is also known to work and can be cheaper
use 1/4 inch speaker cables. hook one speaker up to "main 1 R" out and the other to "main 1 L" out. if you have additional main speakers, hook them up the the "main 2" outputs.
look for the "bridge amp mode" switch and move it to the "main L- main R" position.
Check to make sure the striker bar is not marred or bent. This can cause two nails to be driven at once. Make sure you have the right kind strip nails. Some brands (Cheaper bundles) tend to do this alot! Hope this helps!
You can safely use 8 gauge power and ground up to about 400-500 watts RMS. Actually, for the current your amp will draw, even at maximum power, a 10 gauge would suffice. But the difference in price is so minimal that it makes no sense to buy a 10 gauge wiring kit. Who knows, you may decide that the amp doesn't provide enough power and want to go to a bigger one, in which case you'll already have the proper size wire pulled. Just select a brand name kit that includes ring terminals, fuse, and RCA input cables. The most economical are Metra and Scosche. Streetwires (by MTX) and Monster Cable are more expensive. And some branded Rockford-Fosgate or Kicker will cost you the most. But they will be the very best kits with oxygen free copper and all of the needed installation hardware. You can see a variety of amp wiring kits at www.crutchfield.com or www.sonicelectronix.com. Either online store is a good place to buy from also. The Crutchfield site also has loads of good information that is well worth your browsing time.
The static is called "line noise". It happens when there is not a lot of protection between the copper wiring that carries the signals and the outside. One way for manufacturers to save money is to put just a very thin piece of protection around the copper wires, with no insulation. Just copper wiring and a thin piece of rubber or plastic. So that is why you hear the static noise, the wires are cheaply made and cannot keep out the signals they interfere with it...hence the cheap price. Wal Mart is good about giving refunds, bring it back and get a better made system. It might cost a little more but the sound will be what you enjoy. Don't forget to rate this 4 stars before logging out.
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