Hi,
I need toknow the transformer details for this oven M1630N.
Looks like its primary winding is blown off and no one wants to rewind the same.
Hence looking for substitute with similar ratings.
Would appreciate if someone can post the specs for this transformer.
Thanks
Regards
Prasad
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
Superstar:
An expert that got 20 achievements.
All-Star:
An expert that got 10 achievements.
MVP:
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Samsung Master
9,179 Answers
Re:
That model doesn't show up at my normal Samsung US parts supplier.
Can you post all the numbers found printed on the transformer?
One of them should be the Samsung part number.
Normally you can look at the voltage rating of the large filter capacitor on the control board and assume that the AC secondary voltage will be about 2V less (in ACrms) than that DC voltage.
Now what I'm saying may seem a bit twisted - and it is - but what I mean is this:
If the cap is rated at 15VDC, then I'm saying that a secondary voltage of about 13VAC rms should be a good safe level for testing.
To confirm this, multiply 13VAC by .635 (assuming it uses a full-wave rectifier) and you get about 8.26VDC.
Then allow for about 50% derating by mulitplying the 8.26VDC by 2.
This gives you 16.5VDC, which with my generous derating, is pretty close to the caps 15VDC.
Then you can remove the transformer and use an isolated Variac(tm) to apply that calculated AC voltage to the secondary connections at the circuit board to see if it powers up.
You can measure the DC voltage across the cap as you adjust the Variac(tm), making sure you don't get too close to or exceed the DC rating of the cap.
Once you get it working with a main DC voltage of about 50-75% of what's printed on the main electrolytic capacitor, you can start shopping for a sub transformer.
It's much easier if it's not a VFD display which would require a separate filament winding, but there's nothing wrong with using a small second transformer for that.
You can even mount them both on the chassis and run long leads to the board. As long as the leads are of sufficient gauge, routed and secured well, and protected from nicks, there's nothing worng with that technique.
You should make them long enough that if the front panel is later removed for service, the next technician will be able to see the wires before he pulls them out or otherwise damages them.
I would also add a varistor on the primary if there's not already one! *grin*
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you have had any power surges or lightning in your area it may have opened the primary winding of the transformer on the main board. You can check it by checking he resistance of the primary winding, it should not show open, You may see a burnt winding and that will tell you too that it had a power surge. That small transformer supplies power for the rest of the board to run but it must be the right voltage coming out.
One side of the high voltage winding is usually connected to the frame of the transformer. Verify to make sure this is the case. The other end of the winding goes to the capacitor terminal that's not connected to the rectifier. There should be another high voltage wire that goes from the rectifier side of the capacitor to the magnetron. And, there should be two wires that go from the filiament winding on the transformer to the magnetron. The primary winding should be connected to whatever supplies 117 vac to it.
That is because the power transforme is located in that area and being a transformer uses iron laminations to transform the energy from the primary winding to the secondary winding/s using magnetism caused by the alternating currents. This in turn produces eddy currents that excite the iron and cause vibration to be set up, (the principle is similar in a loudspeaker). That is where the noise is coming from. Tightening up the laminations may help but it is normal for a small amount of humming/buzzing noise dependent on the manufacturing process of the transformer. I hope that explains it for you.
Disconnect the connector to the primary winding of the high
voltage transformer. Put a new fuse . If the fuse is not
blowing the problem may be in the secondary side of the high voltage
transformer. Chek the highvoltage diode, capacitor,
magnetron respectively. you can also check the primary winding of the
low voltage transformer.
I’m sorry to tell you this but; I wouldn't recommend using a different transformer, even if it's the same size, it could cause serious damage. The HV transformer should only be replaced with the exact replacement part.
×