Washer overfills in rinse cycle

Hello, The problem is going to be one of two related problems . All rinse cycles use only cold water and either the cold side of the water inlet valve is not opening and the cold rinse water is not filling the tub and the washer will sit and wait for ever till the tub is full so it can continue the rinse agaitate cycle. If yo do have a warm rinse try that or try filling on the start cycle with cold water wash and see if cold fills,if not the water inlet valve needs to be replaced. I have included a video showing you how to do that.The part number for that valve is 285805 it could be purchased at your local applaince store or online at; searspartsdirect.com apwagner.com appliancepartspros.com repairclinic.com apdepot.com The other potential problem is going to be the filter screen on the back of that valve is blocked and needs to cleaned. To check that turn off the water supply and disconnect the hose,pop out screen and see if its clogged.Also check for water flowing from the hose when disconnected from washer. Good luck,i hope this helps you to fix your washer.

Remove the cabinet and repair or replace the tub leveling spring on the bottom rear.

This sounds like your water fill valve is bad and will need to be replaced.

This machine has a water valve that works on vaccuum from the tub. You will see a small clear hose that runs from the side of the tub up to this valve. This valve is adjustable to change the water level in the tub to desired setting on some machines, but if it goes bad, it will not shut off, thus overflowing the tub. Find this valve and replace it if adjustment does not work.

hi there......wow !! your using a lot of water...sounds like you have a failed inlet valve resulting in water flowing continually into the machine.....remedy relace the inlet water valve

regards Sir Galahad

lift the end of the drain hose see if the tub fills and goes in the rinse cycle if it works you have a syphon problem if so make your drain pipe stand longer.

It sounds like a siphon issue.
Check that the drain hose does a high loop before it goes into the drain pipe. (ie. drain hose loops above the water level inside the tub). Make sure the drain hose is not pushed too far down into the drain pipe. Also if the drain hose is sealed to the drain pipe this will create an airlock and a siphon will occur, allow air to enter between drain hose and drain pipe connection.
This should help you but if there is still a problem let me know and I'll try to assist you further.
Good luck!

Replace the water valve.
Problem solved.

This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.

Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.

Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the “Load Level”, “Load Size” or “Water Level”. On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½” off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

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SOME OF THESE MACHINES HAVE TWO PRESSURE SWITCHES IN THEM, ONE FOR THE MAIN WASH WATER LEVEL AND ONE FOR THE RINSE WATER LEVEL. CHECK FOR A PLUGGED AIR PRESSURE HOSE FIRST AND THEN CHECK THE PRESSURE SWITCHES.