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Question about Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

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Cabinet opening Same problem that has been mentioned a few times. After the rinse cycle, the washer stops while full of water and clothes. The information has been very helpful, but I can't seem to figure out how to open the lid to the washer. I have removed 2 screws from the back of the washer, but I cannot locate any other screws in the back to open the lid. Everything is tight, and nothing seems loose. The plastic end caps on the console don't seem to want to come off, and it seems to be a continuos piece of metal that forms both the console and the top of the console that wraps over the top to the back. The back of the washer seems to be a continuous pice of metal and no hinges are apparent. Is the solution to pull the entire back off the washer? The washer was bought in 2000. Clueless..

Posted by adam bedell on

  • jap50 Dec 12, 2007

    it is the switch, but never having removed the lid before I tried the screw driver in the front clip thing first to find out no clips and no hinge.

    The picture and the info below on the last page shows the lid up, but without seeing some sort or rear view of what screws came out or what clips to pull or push and which way is confusing.

    I will try and if I am successful I will write back as to what I did.



  • jap50 Dec 12, 2007

    By looking at the picture below, I was able to figure out how to get the cabinet off my washer to get to the lid switch to make the washer spin.

    Once I removed the two screws on the back that held the two white clips, I removed the clips so they did not fall into the washer. The control panel has two plastic covers on each end that pop off. Once they are off you can access the two screws at the bottom in the lower corners on the front of the control panel. They will probably be hidden behind lint or dust balls.

    Once these are removed, there are two plastic hooks on the bottom of the control panel attached to the panel itself. Slightly push the panel back and forth, slightly while pulling up. This will loosen the panel and it will pop up. The wires will not allow you to move it very far so when you lift it, put a rag behind the main group of wires where they will lay on the top of the backing plate the panel comes loose from. Pull the panel up far enough to unlock the plug for the lid switch. It is one of those where you use a small screw drive to pry the tab away from the locking clef and slide it up and away. This will allow you yo lay the control panel over the top of the backing plate.

    This is where the rag comes into play. Make sure you lay the rag between the wires and the top of the backing plate so you don't damage the wires.

    Using two screw drivers, you will see thew clips holding the cabinet to the backing plate. Stick one slotted driver into the end of the clip that is closet to the drum and pry it out by hooking it into the "u" end of the clip and prying it toward the back of the washer. With the other driver, place it under the raised part of the retaining clip and pry it up. It will safely pop up and come away from the backing plate. Same for the opposite side. One small screw on the bottom right of the backing plate (on the back side of the washer) and you can Begin to rock the cabinet until it loosens up. Simply tilt it forward and the cabinet will come loose from the washer frame.

    Be careful when removing the cabinet as to not bend anything and set it aside. The lid switch removes with two small screws assessable from raising the lid. You will see a plastic tag the penetrates a hole in the top of the cabinet and pushes a switch allowing the drum to spin. My problem was that we allowed the drum to spin soo far out of balance that the drum actually ripped off the tab on the switch stopping the drum from spinning.

    I cleaned all all areas with a brass brush and vacuumed the whole washed out and cleaned all the areas I would not have access to once the job is completed.

    This easy and takes about an hour for the first timer to figure it out. All I have to do now is put it back together. Good luck..




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Goede, the end caps will come off, just get a good grip on them and pull hard. Under the end caps are the screws to open the consol. There is nothing in the back of the washer to remove. Then after flipping the consol there are two snap springs to remove and the whold cabinet lifts off. You have to unplug the lid switch harness. The attachment might help. back.

Posted on Sep 10, 2006


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Related Questions:


Spinning cycle

Keeping in mind that the soap & bleach gets dispensed into your wash on the second to last rinse cycle and that most all rinse cycles are in cold water. Is your cold water valve screen plugged causing your washer to rinse poorly? Are you using the HE detergent? If not maybe the washer is sudsing up to much and having a hard time rinsing all the suds and bleach out and leaving the clothes soapy.

Fill the washer up with no clothes in it on a cold/cold wash setting does it take a long time to fill the washer up? Also when it is full and agitating is there suds in the washer?

Last suggestion is if the drain is hose is a lot higher than the top of the washer it might have a hard time draining out all of the soap water before the next load

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If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

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Washer smokes during rinse cycle. With clothes out of it, only the rinse cycle works. Breaker pops when trying to run a cycle with clothes in it. Water also does not drain

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2. There could be leakage ( water) from the pump hose spaying the motor and causing vapor.
3. There may be a exposed wire from vibration rub during the "spin" cycle and is grounding against the enclosure.
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The unit will have to be open by a trained technician to give full disclosure of this issue.
I hope this helps. Have great day!

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