Power supply if the amp is not getting enough power consistantly will the amp heat up because is working harder. if so would a cap solve the problem

I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:

ISSUES:

1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.
2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.
3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.
4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.

Answers to issues:

1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.

2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.

Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.

What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.

3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have tobuy and try a board to see if it fixes it or not.

4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.

look at caps in the power supply of the set for ones like these.

All this is only a place to begin and may or may not solve the problem--have to start here.

The most likely reason for this is puffed up filter capacitors in the power supply.

All modern TV sets (including yours) have what is called a "standby" power supply inside; it is active all the time (even when the set is off) and this is an area where to save money they use cheaper parts.

The caps are rated for a given value and for VOLTAGE; most standby power supplies are about 12 volts although it varies from set to set; put in 12 volt rated caps and the heat from constant use dries them out in a year or two.

The reason this is done is if you make 10,000 sets the difference in cost from 12 volt rated (or less) caps versus 16 or 25 volt rated caps in production is a nice amount of money---they do not care it will fail as long as it lasts at least a year.

This is common also in desktop computer towers: I will attach in a few minutes a photo of typical looking cap----note the top is silver with creases and should be ABSOLUTELY FLAT.

A visual look at the caps on the power board (follow power cord to it) will show if this is the problem; I have had sets where several were puffed up and gradually it got harder and harder to turn set on and or get it to stay on.

Caps that are in this condition will tend to try to work when they get hot, hence after the set is on for a while it stays on.

Buying another power board if this is the problem only buys you some time, it will in the future do the same thing----the solution if this is the problem is to replace the caps with high quality ones rated at a HIGHER voltage-----all the caps will have the value in Uf (micro farad) and the voltage rating (vdc-voltage direct current) marked on them and have a + and - marked for positive and negative side.

The caps are all with 2 leads, with the board out a fairly easy repair--you can see which are bad and the values are printed on them.

SD TECH

R represents power supply for the heat system.
RC represents power supply for cooling system.
G represents fan (neutral).
W represents heat system.
Y represents cooling system.
Y2 represents 2nd stage cooling.
W2 represents 2nd stage heating.
AUX represents heat pump.
Try calling 1-800-468-1502.
Their english is "REALLY BAD"!!!

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. A plasma TV is a very hard working device. It is working harder than any TV that has been built before, and as a result it produces a lot of heat. 75% of technical problems in plasma TV's are caused by overheating problems. You’ll need to check the power supply board first for any swollen/bulged/leaky capacitors. As power supply board is the hardest working board in a plasma TV, it develops voltage to supply all components, high current + high voltage. All this is only recommended if you have electrical expertise & know how to solder/re-solder components as these units contain high voltages even when switched off. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

power supply board is dying,must replaced the power suppy board will solved this problem.Tries Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com for the power supply board.

I think I know what your problem is.

I am going to give you an explanation in simple terms. I suspect (I have seen the exact same thing several times) that you have puffed up caps in the power supply.

They are also called electrolytic capacitors.

All LCD, PLASMA, and even desktop computers use a power supply that is up and running 7/24 even if the unit is not turned on.

It is called a STANDBY power supply---I am going to take a photo so you know what the suspected parts look like and attach it here.

The reason this happens is many companies cut corners here--these caps are rated at a specific capacitance and WORKING VOLTAGE--the working voltage is the max voltage the part can tolerate over time.

The way they save money is most of these power supplies in STANDBY are about 8 or 9 volts and they put caps rated at a MAX of 10 volts--after a year or two the caps dry out inside and the tops of them puff up--having trouble getting to turn on--having to unplug it and try several times to get it on is a dead giveaway this is what is wrong---as time goes on it gets harder and harder to get it to come on.

The reason companies do this is if they make 10,000 sets and use 10 volt caps instead of 16 or higher voltage rated caps---they save a nice piece of money---they do not care if it only lasts a few years--they will be clear if it makes it through the 1 year warranty.

If someone opens the set and follows the power cord it will take them to the power supply board. Look at the two photos---notice the one with the silver top of the cap---bad ones will be clear to see---the top of them will be puffed up and NOT FLAT.

If this is what is found you have two choices--replace the caps--parts cost should be under 30 dollars for the parts OR REPLACE THE POWER BOARD--the board will be EXPENSIVE---confirm actual full model number and I will try to get you a part number and price for it.


The new board will work but have the same substandard caps in it and in a few years fail the same way.

Sooner or later when enough caps puff up---the set will not turn on at all.

I just fixed one of my desktop computers with this exact same problem--parts cost me 12 dollars and I upgraded from 10 to 16 volt caps---50% increase in ability to handle the voltage.

I have seen this in dozens of newer sets.


Let me know if I can help you further and if this information helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

I had the same problem... Astar 30" LTV 3001 ....These TV's have a cooling problem that causes premature electrolytic capacitor failure. De-solder and Test all the 2200uF-25v, 3300uF-35v and 1000uF-10v caps in the power supply (center board, back of TV). Use a good LCR meter that will read 3300uF or better, Replace all bad caps with 105c rated caps. If you don't have an LCR meter, replace all the mentioned caps on the PS. If fuse on board is blown, also replace the F9222L regulator IC chip. Mounting a small cooling fan on rear of TV over the PS will help keep your new caps from failing again. This requires holes in the stand bracket and the rear of the TV, power can be supplied from a 14V source near the bottom of the PS board.

The convergence amps in those units consist of two Sanyo STK392-110 Ic's that get hot enough to fry eggs.. If your storm flexed voltages enough it could have easily shorted the amps and/or take either of two pico fuses in the 24v supply line to the amps... If you're not too tech savy this is one for a reliable shop and not and expensive fix. Two Sanyo Ics and a couple pico fuses should be more than $50.00 dollars and a couple hours of labor to put them in... While they're at it have them check the caps in the hyper module and for any ring cracks in the deflection circuit...

Bill

Unknown model not working could be a bunch of things!
does the unit have power?? fuse(s) ok?? turn on voltage present(12v)?? Any leds?? Unit ever get wet?? Any lites?? smoke get out?? was it, did it get real hot??
I have worked on a few with various problems, no common problems. Some of the things I have seen; Level adj pot was smashed in, Shorted fets , + burnt gate drive resistors in the ps section + blown runs, bad connections, shorted outputs, corrosion from beer leakage, bad electrolytic caps, leaking caps ate up the copper runs, metal bars used to hold down fets and outputs came loose, parts over heated and shorted.
Open up and look around, burnt resistors, leaking caps, puffed up caps, black marks, are all helpful signs.
These amps typically use FETs in the power supply(+/- 25-50v) and regular transistors for the outputs. Test all heatsinked parts for shorts. Carefully remove metal bars holding down heatsinked parts, keep track of where the heat sink insulators go, remove pcb and inspect runs. Repair and bench test with a power supply that has an amp meter. With out any input, unit should only use a few amps after initial 5-15amps to get the PS fired up. Then test across speaker outputs for any DC voltage. Anything over 1v, (should be very close to zero) amp needs some more work.
Good luck!

I run one sub on my Kenwood Amp also. It does over heat also. My conclusion is that we are both trying to push that one sub too hard and the amp is having to work really hard to make that sub do what we are asking. Also, not having enough power or a good ground will cause it to over heat. I am going to go with the voice coils are heating up though.