Bad wheels I need the part number for the wheels. The model from the heater is B600D

that's not a model number,open the door and look around the opening where you put the clothes in you should see the model number there,if you checked all the t-stats on the heater box and on the blower wheel housing and the element is good and as long as this doesn't have an even heat board in it or any relays up near the timer then you either have a bad timer or a bad motor,even if the motor spins the switch in the motor could be bad not giving you your other power source from the motor to the heater.this is the best i can tell you without a model number

I could help but need more info, model number or photo

it's always on the blower wheel housing,your dryer has that funky blower wheel setup with the blower wheel flat and powered with a belt,don't know why they would change the old setup but anyway the thermistor is on top of the blower next to the thermal fuse,go here put your model number in,go to bulkhead parts and look at the blower wheel housing you'll see part 56 that's your thermistor,and the inlet thermistor is on the heater box part 48 on diagram,it should read between 50 and 60k ohms at room temp.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/11067052600/0583/0151200.html
also while your in there check the thermal fuse on the blower housing next to the thermistor and check all the t-stats even though it says it's the inlet therm. it's good to still check all of them out,a dirty vent line or blower wheel housing or the duct that the lint filter slides down into could be blocked and take out the thermal fuse or one of the other t-stats it does this as a safety if the dryer can't move air and starts to overheat it will pop one of the stats so it's always good to check them out instead of changing out the part you think it is,the codes tell you what's happening and what it could be not the actual problem,i read people change out all the t-stats,the heater and they still don't have heat because of a bad board or motor or timer depending on model number,if they checked the parts with a meter they could have saved money knowing the parts were good instead of changing them out,all you need is a multi meter,set it to say 20k ohms,remove at least one of the wires on the part you want to check,put the leads one on each side of part you want to check where the wires connect to it,if you see a 1 on the meter the part is bad or open,if you see anything else but 1 the part is good or closed,touch the leads together first to make sure the meter is working,when you touch them together you should see anything but 1
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/11067052600/0583/0151200.html
also while your in there clean out the dryer,if you have a shop vac vac up all the lint you see,then set the shop vac up to blow and blow off the motor the heater box and inside the blower,get all the lint out, clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into then if your vent line is a long run disconnect it from the back of dryer and i use a leaf blower stick it into the vent line and blow it out to the outside,hope this helps you out,

Unfortunately, the model number you listed does appear to be correct. However, if you can find the correct model number, you can possibly find the wheel assembly at the following link.
http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/index.php

I hope this helps you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

not always,next time send the model number,open the door and look around the opening of the dryer and you'll see a tag with the model and serial numbers,just need the model,it will start with 110. or similar,if the filter is on top then unplug the dryer and then slide out the dryer,remove the lint filter and the back panel and you'll find all the parts in the rear,if the filter is inside then all your parts are up front,also depending on the model number on some machines there's an even heat board and relays in the top console that can be bad but i don't think you have this,with a meter read out the heater,and all the thermostats on the heater box and check the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing,when checking any part you have to remove at least one of the wires or you won't get the right reading,when you find the part that's bad call your parts store,give them the model number,tell what part you found that was bad and they will sell you the correct part,good luck and let me know how you make out

According to the owner's manual they do have rear wheel kits. You can find the manual at www.desatech.com and go to "Construction Heaters" then go down to the model number. The wheel kits are listed under the "Accessories." According to the manual the wheel kits have part numbers of HA1202 which is the "Heavy Duty Wheel and Handle Kit" and the other is HA1206 which is a "Standard Wheel Kit." Check out Master Parts, they might have them. 800.446.1446 or www.masterparts.net ......Hope this helps you!

look at theplate and see if it has a phone number u can call or go on line and try to find their website or jus go to where it was purchased and they can point u in the right direction

you didn't send the full model number,starts with 110.or similar,you have a defrost problem,it could be a couple of things so you need to read out some parts with a meter,you could have a bad defrost thermostat the timer or adaptive defrost board depending on model number,bad heater,if it has a timer you need to advance it by turning the middle with a screw driver until you hear a click and the fan shuts off in the freezer,now you have it in defrost,see if the heater is on,if it is you have abad timer,if it didn't come on check the t stat,if it has plug in connectors on the wires disconnect the t stat and plug the wire derectly to the heater or if you have to cut the wires cut them and bypass the thermostat,if the heater comes on then you know you have a bad t stat,also pull the wires off the heater and check the heater,if the heater is bad it's a good idea to change out the t stat anyway,if it has an adaptive defrost board check the tech sheet that should be behind or on the bottom kick plate,remove it and look it will tell you how to put the fridge into defrost,i think you push in the both door switches 5 times at the same time,if it doesn't go into defrost could be the board,you'll have to still read out the heater with a meter,also if you read out the thermostat it has to be cold,if it warms up it will read open but it still could be good,if you need any more help with this let me know and send model number so i can help better

do you have a meter?pull one of the wires off the heater and read it out,you could have a bad thermal fuse,a,bad high limit t stat or a couple of other problems,check to make sure you have 240 volts coming in at the back of dryer at the block where the cord connects to dryer,there are 2 house fuses that can go to dryer and one could be bad,next time send model number,if the filter is on top then go to the back of dryer,if the filter is inside,take off the bottom panel and check out the thermal fuse there,it's located on the blower wheel housing it's either 3392519 or 3390719 depending on model number,if you need more help let me know,good luck