Power Failure after drops saltwater splashed on it on beach.

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look at mute button. if it has a factory reset use it

It might be the salt water has got into its main chip circuit board or may be its blocking the power switch circuit. And there is a chance of the lens motor being stuck by it. You can also try another battery or recharge your battery and try it again. If you have no other choice that throwing it and buying another one then try washing it with normal water, let it dry then try again.

I see failure in booting. I'm afraid your HDD has problem, have check with JVC Service Center near you, chances are high of HDD failure like you have that can be repair.

get it repaired as early as possible for the salt water penetrated inside will do further damages on the circut board in time.

Camera was dropped on a hard deck or into any water solution.


My Answer:

Whether your camera was dropped into any water (or onto a hard deck for that matter) - even for a split second - the damage has already been done. Esp with the "hard deck" drop.

Unless your digital camera is a totally "100% waterproof down to X number of feet" sports digital camera, or quite possibly a "water-resistant" sports digital camera I'm afraid you got water into the "lens barrel" area of the camera and that usually is just as FATAL as getting water into the camera anywhere else as well. Esp if it's SALTWATER!!

Saltwater will destroy any camera (or anything else electronics for that matter) just as bad as leaky batteries will. Once those micro circuit-boards get that acidic saltwater or batt acid on them it's only a matter of time before TOTAL FAILURE.

Sometimes it's immediate, and other times it takes awhile for that saltwater/acid to do it's damage inside. But it will happen - as I know very well from all my years of repairing electronic equipment no matter what it was - Marine environment stuff as well.

See - those saltwater crystals left behind never go away once the water evaporates. Only way to possibly get that saltwater out initially (out of anything electronic dropped in ocean water btw) - with any luck - is to first remove any and all batteries from the damaged electronic item(s).

Next - squirt ALCOHOL (91% or higher rubbing alcohol, or better yet 99% Isopropyl Alcohol) into the openings where you suspect the saltwater got into the camera (or other items) to begin with, and then hold the camera with the lens barrel facing down while shaking the excess Alcohol out. Just letting the excess ALCOHOL drain out by itself won't do, as you need to get out as much as possible thus carrying the saltwater by-chemicals out with it as well.

If you have a compressed air source - no higher then say 20-30 psi, or a LPHV (Low Pressure High Volume) regulated air pressure source - use it instead to forcefully blow out any and all Alcohol as best you can.

Next - take the flushed out camera and open up any access panels, memory card slots, battery port doors, display panels, etc and place the camera in a kitchen oven that uses GAS ONLY, and with ONLY the PILOT LIGHT burning leave the camera in there for no less then a complete week (7 days)! NO LESS then 7 days!

That low PILOT LIGHT ONLY heat temp ( < ~ 110-115F ) will never harm anything electronic (as I use mine all the time to naturally dry things out that have gotten wet for one reason or the other). It will thoroughly dry out the camera insides and hopefully remove all traces of moisture and salt residue! Hopefully!

If you keep using that camera without at least doing the above FIX with Alcohol - after you have exposed it to saltwater - then I'm afraid your camera will have suffered unrecoverable internal damage and will fail totally at some point thereafter.

Saltwater and Electronics DON'T MIX - plain and simple.

Same goes for any camera that has been dropped on the "hard deck".

The guidelines and consequences of a dropped camera are listed below as a general guideline of what NOT to do, what to do afterwords, and what to do to try and prevent a camera drop to begin with.


I'm afraid that "drop", or "small drop", or even that "very big" drop you - or anyone else here posting - spoke/speaks of was more like that of a camera ending life - as related to all digital cameras. No matter how much that ?-year old ???? camera cost when new.

Not all digital cameras are created equal, and if you are an active sports person, or something close to it whereas your camera is subject to or exposed to this kind of rough treatment then you might want to consider doing several things from now on.

Unfortunately it sounds like you dislodged the imagining converting pixel matrix chip and/or the related optical components that convert the optical picture information into digital information that is processed to the memory card for storage.

You may have even possibly dislodged some PC connectors (printed circuit board connectors) inside the camera. Not to mention pulsed servo motor drive components as well.

Each camera is different as to how many individual circuit boards they have inside. Could be 3-4-5 or more. Each is interfaced by a paper thin flat interface type cable and it's possible that particular board cable could be damaged as well. Hard to say. Very very complex inside!

I've had a few destroyed digital cameras apart myself (that people gave me to try and fix) - just to see how they were put together, as I knew they were toast right off the bat in less then 5 mins after looking at them. If it wasn't bad batteries leaking inside and destroying the many smaller circuit boards inside, then it was dislodged and broken parts inside from being dropped.

In any case - each digital camera I had apart WAS NOT worth repairing if taken into an authorized repair dealer or even the main factory repair outlet. Esp if it is/was a SONY!! Sony anything is really not worth the repair charges they want today. Totally ridiculous as they charge you roughly $35-50 today just to even look at whatever is broken of theirs. Then comes the actual repair cost on top of that. I won't buy anything of theirs anymore, as they burned me twice before years ago - and twice was enough....

Not so with Olympus and other digital camera makers! That is why all my cameras today are Olympus because of the GREAT factory warranty or out of warranty service I received past to present. They are the best in my books and I have NO TIES AT ALL to them in nay matter or form!

One thing I should mention here regarding digital cameras in general, as with all 35mm film cameras as well is this.

With digital cameras that cost less then $200 (esp those under $100), and those that are say 3 to 5 years old already - if they break internally for whatever reason (ie: batts leaking - worn out drive motors - dropped camera - water damage - etc) they are considered THROW AWAY CAMERAS and NOT WORTH FIXING. Plain and simple - all sentimental attachment aside btw. Always remove and keep the Memory Cards before throwing out any damaged "beyond repair" camera though. The cards can always (possibly?) be reused on your next digital camera purchase.

With any new camera purchase over $200 it's always an added decision whether to buy the 2 or 3 year EXTENDED WARRANTY - as related to the added cost. I know I would have, and I have done so on my $400+ higher ended Olympus 35mm film camera not only because Olympus builds the best and are renown for their lens QUALITY worldwide, but because I wanted the extra PEACE OF MIND knowing an act of God or Mother Nature could occur at any time. It just made sense to me at that time!

Continued below:

Yes there are fuses. Unfortunately, by exposing the camcorder to salt water, it is probably a write off. I personally would not guarantee any repairs to a unit exposed to saltwater (or any water for that matter). Salt water is EXTREMELY corrosive and can cause problems long after the exposure happened.

theres a good chance that the hard drive platletes and parking head have been damaged, although this is not a huge problem to replace, as long as your screen is working ok, then it is worth replacing. you can access it on the underside of the casing, in the largest compartment, remove all screws and the hard drive will be held in with more screws.