During a cycle while the machine was circulating the water the circuit breaker tripped. Each time I reset the circuit breaker it trips when I try and continue the program. There is a quantity of water in the basin of the machine so I manually turned the programmer to drain. I switched the program back on and it tripped the circuit breaker again.
I have also tried changing the fuse but still no difference. Currently a 13Amp fuse in the plug.
I am unsure what to try next. Many Thanks for all your help.
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Re: Dishwasher tripping the circuit breaker
Andy, leave the breaker off and remove the toe panel (bottom panel) from the dishwasher. Remove the cover of the junction box where the cord connection or wiring is made. Look at the wire caps and see if they are not burnt. Sometimes these connections become loose and arch, tripping the breaker. If so, cut the wires, strip a new end and reconnect. Catriver...post back.
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At a guess, you have a leak or a damaged seal/insulation around some switch/wire in the washer. Assuming a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) breaker, some wiring is getting damp at the end of the washer cycle and triggering the breaker when you try to run a second load. This wiring dries out overnight and thus doesn't trip the breaker on the first load.
To check if the GFCI breaker/outlet, try plugging the washer into a outlet on a different breaker. Use an indoor/outdoor rated extension cord appropriate for the electrical load. If the second circuit is GFCI-protected and the breaker trips, check the machine for leaks or damaged insulation on a wire or several wires. If the lid switch is getting damp, that would stop the machine. The leak or damaged area is probably fairly small since it takes the full cycle to get the breaker to trip. If the breaker doesn't trip, replace the breaker or outlet. Get an electrician to do the replacement if you aren't comfortable doing this.
Alternatively, the washer is overheating and cooling down overnight. I've heard of the inlet water solenoids tripping a circuit breaker when the inlet water lines have clogged screens. Similarly, if the motor is overheating at the spin cycle, you might see this. You can try using a meter to see if the current draw changes during the washer cycle. Alternatively, try start the second load an hour or several hours after the first (just less than the 24 hour pattern you've tested).
This tells me that you do not have an overload situation. There is a short, and/or one or more faulty breakers possibly including the main breaker.
Even an experienced DIY'er with electrical knowledge would probably contact an electrician at this point. If there is a potential problem with the main breaker then it is best to get professional help.
Does it trip on other programmed cycles?
Or, do you only have the one circulation time?
This one is odd, if it only trips during one of multiple cycles.
It could happen this way: if you have two or more cycles programmed, and only the one 6:00 cycle has the option for the heater to come on, then you could have a bad heater element?
But the situation would have to have the spa in economy mode. Because heater will work only when timed filter cycles are activated, and if a demand for heat is registered, the heater will come on,and in your case, breaker will trip.
If in standard mode, the breaker will trip any time the spa comes on, when a demand for heat is registered, this is called "heat call" or call for heat.
When you say "trips out" do you mean the circuit breaker trips? If so the breaker in the electrical box may be bad. Also do you have anything on that circuit pulling high amps when the dishwasher is running? Also when does it "trip out" during a pump cycle or when the heating element cycle starts?
If the pump does not work at all then the pump may have went out. If it happens when the heating element cycle starts then it may be the circuit is overloading or the breaker is bad.
Are you sure the breaker is big enough to carry the Amps needed to start the drying cycle. You know that due to inductance it takes almost twice as many amps to start a motor as it does to run it.Find out how many Watts it uses and divide it by 120VAC and it will give the maximum amps it will draw. See if the breaker is high enough amp for it. A 25 Amp breaker should be efficient. I hope this helps you and if I can help you in anyway in the future let me know.
check the condensor fan in the compressor area and make sure its running if not the compressor will overheat causing high head pressures on the compressor causing it to draw too much current to operate the compressor and kick the breaker out,also make sure the condenser coils there are clean and it has ample air movement away from the wall
Do you mean the houses circuit breaker? If so, WHEN in the cycle does it blow the circuit breaker? WHEN it trips will tell you what to look at. I.E. If the circuit breaker trips during the fill cycle then it would be the walter inlet valve or the timer in the control panel; if it trips as soon as it is in the agitator cycle - then the motor or transmission; if it trips in the spin cycle - then the drain pump or transmission or control panel.
run the machine, after it trips, unplug and carefully touch the motor,it may have a bad capacitor, or dry bearings causing it to draw excessive current,if these 2 things are not it, then look for a bare wire that may be touching case during this part of the cycle,and if you can get an "Amprobe" it reads current and check machines current draw during the start to trip current
The issue is with the heating element of your dishwasher, it is withdrawing very large amount of power and thus, the circuit gets overloaded and circuit breaker trips. You'll need to check for any short circuits around the heater element. And, also the resistance of the heater element, it should be around 1.4K ohms to 1.8K ohms.
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