The Model 245 under counter ice maker stopped making ice. Water flow valve is on. Took the icemaker down and note some test holes in the control box but have no manual and Sub zero site is worthless. Any ideas or does anybody have a site where the manuakl caN BE DOWNLOADED?
Ice maker, I don't know where you can find the manual but I'll give you a few ideas of what to look for. First make sure that the inlet tube is not frozen over. Next, look at the center gear on the module and see if the clips in the center are not broken. If so you will have to replace the module. The ejector blades should be at the 2:00 position when home. If you get a jumper wire and jump T to H, this will by pass the bi-metal and run a cycle. The ice maker should fill at around the 12:00 position. Test points L & N will verify if you have 120v to the ice-maker. Test points L & H will test the resistance of the heater, 72 ohms. plus or minus 10%. Hope this gets you going, Catriver...post back.
Posted on Aug 21, 2006
John, the temp in the unit has to be 17 degrees for the bimetal to close in the ice maker and cycle. You can rule out the valve by jumping V to L. If you get water, the valve is good. Did you look to see if the plastic retainer in the center gear is not broken? If it is the gear will be working its way off and the unit will not cycle right. Catriver...post back.
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Thanks for this practical trouble shooting suggestion. I will follow-up this week and see what it yields.
""Best Solutionposted on Aug 21, 2006By catriver
Rank: Wiz
Rating: 84.58%, 144 votes
Ice maker, I don't know where you can find the manual but I'll give you a few ideas of what to look for. First make sure that the inlet tube is not frozen over. Next, look at the center gear on the module and see if the clips in the center are not broken. If so you will have to replace the module. The ejector blades should be at the 2:00 position when home. If you get a jumper wire and jump T to H, this will by pass the bi-metal and run a cycle. The ice maker should fill at around the 12:00 position. Test points L & N will verify if you have 120v to the ice-maker. Test points L & H will test the resistance of the heater, 72 ohms. plus or minus 10%. Hope this gets you going, "
What are the odds that the water solenoid valve has taken a dump? I would assume that if I have assured the water in-flow tube (about 1/2" dia) is not frozen, and my recollection is that it is not, then by following the "T to H"jumper cyle, if no H2O delivered, then possibly solenoid failure? Take it out and check static?
Also, I had taken the electrical plug out a few times adn then reinstalled, just letting the unit lay in the compartment. I wnated to watch the gear to see if a cycle ensued. I came back later and hear d a noise and saw the cycle had taken place and there was a puddle of water! So I reinstalled everything, but since then, no ice cycle has occurred ...no noice like the cycle is happening? Any thoughts on this? WHAT ROLE DOES THE
thermal fuse" play and can it go bad? Is it like a thermostat, not allowing a cycle if the temp is above some limit? (I have a wiring schematic from some past service reps work).
THANKS FOR HELP< I'll update outcome.
John
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