Saw stopped working .checked all outlets and tried to help it sstart by hand .and it sill won't start

Left-tilt, right-tilt refers to the direction the top of the blade can be tilted when it is not straight up and down. There will be an indicator on the front of the saw, normally pointing to zero. When you adjust the blade away from zero, if it tilts to the left, it is a left-tilt saw.

The best thing I've found to seal saw table tops is a good car wax. It keeps the rust down and is great to keep your work sliding easily on the top and won't stain your wood like oil based coatings would.

I dont have a steel clad answer for you ... consider this please: Depending on the cuts you are performing, your motor may ge 'going out' on over load (heat). The solution is to wait until the motor cools.

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I bet the grease has set up and the worm gear is just frozen in place. Have you tried spraying some oil or wd40 or silicone lube into the worm gear, and lubricating the trunnion ways? I can't believe that if you've unlocked the handle lock and pushed the handwheel in the saw won't tilt at all. You can download manuals for that saw from here. See page 14 for more details, or get someone who's mechanically inclined to take a look at it for you. If the saw is new, it has a 5 year warranty.See here for repair or parts info.

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You need to do some maintenance on your saw. First unplug it. Then blow out the sawdust from inside the saw, especially around the trunnion ways and gears and worm gears that engage them to raise/lower and tilt the saw. Use a good quality lubricant to lube these worm gears and the shafts and pivot points. I use motor oil, have for years, and find it does a better job and lasts longer than any kind of grease or silicone. Use an oil can with a long spout so you can direct the oil where needed, then move the saw up/down or right/left to work the oil into the worm gear and mechanism. In a pinch WD40 is fine, though it won't last as long. Periodic re oiling will maintain the mechanism in peak condition, and the drops of oil you spill in the process won't do any damage to your so. No, it won't get gummed up with sawdust. Try it, you'll like it.

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These lightweight saws can be somewhat problematic in this respect. They have a tendency to come out of adjustment as they are moved about.
First, make sure the blade you're using is true and has little runout. You can check this using a micrometer, or simply marking a tooth and spinning the blade by hand (power unplugged) to see if the blade runs true or wavers in its path. If the blade is warped or bent the problem is probably there rather than the table.
Second, check to make sure the fence is properly adjusted, parallel to the mitre slots. If the fence is out of adjustment, the path of the material relative to the blade will not be parallel, and this can cause poor cuts.
Third, hope it's one of the first two. If not, set a day or weekend aside to work on the saw. Get some good light and flip it over on a table or horses so you can see what you're doing. Have the parts diagram and owner's manual on hand.
You'll need to loosen the bolts that hold the table top against the saw mechanism beneath the top, and shift the saw relative to the top in the desired direction to correct for the out-of true path of the blade relative to the table top. On some lighter saws like yours, this entails re-adjusting most of the saw mechanisms to run true, as they are frequently independently bolted to the underside of the table and not unified construction that moves as a single piece.
You have to shift the saw slightly in the required direction, check the runout of the blade, then repeat until you get it right. If you're skilled and you don't mind standing on your head, you can do this with the saw in position.
There are many excellent articles online that detail this procedure if you search google for "table saw tune up", so I won't elaborate on the details. Try to find one that has a saw similar to yours as an example. Good luck.

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When you are facing the front of the table saw. Right above the Dewalt logo, there is a hand wheel that if you crank clockwise - it will tilt your table saw blade to the angle shown where the hand wheel is.

I couldn't find that model Sears saw to confirm, but if yours is like mine (113.298720), then the handle on the right causes the saw trunion to swivel left and right. And there is a locking hex-head bolt on the front of the saw up close to the underside of the table. This bolt locks the trunion in place keeping it from swivelling.
Take a look at the following diagram http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0908018-00004.png part 22 is the shaft that tilts the blade Part 30 is the bolt that locks it in place part 29 is the handle part 28 is the spring that holds the handle on the locking bolt

When you are facing the saw as if you would be operating, there are two adjustment wheel on the front and right hand sides of the saw cabinet. The front wheel adjusts the blade height, the wheel on the right side of the cabinet adjusts tilt. Each of these wheels are equipped with a locking nut, a smaller wheel in the center. this must be loosened before any adjustments can be made and should be tightened before operation. If there is significant resistance while trying to adjust either of these it may be a result of misaligned gear or excessive buildup of dust and shavings on the gearing.