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Internal or external? Those are protected externally as close to the battery as possible. Check the wire size and color at the amp and then go look for it at the battery under the hood. You should be able to see the installers additions. Inside the unit is another matter.
You can not set the ohms, If you don,t no what your doing get help from some body that noe,s what in the hell there doing, That you don,t fry the amp, End blow the sub,
The 40A fuse should be immediately to the right of the B+ terminal. If you bought this amp used, and it's never turned on before, it's possible the previous owner removed the fuse. It's hard to miss if it's actually there, so you're probably seeing an empty slot where the fuse is supposed to be. With the radio turned off, insert a 40A ATC (blade style) fuse into the slot, and then power it up.
This amp is rated at 200 watts when run at 4 ohm load when in bridged mode (mono).You will need to check the measurement of the load at the amp's positive and negative location where it meets the speakers. You are actually going to need to measure the load of the speakers on the amp. If it ran too low of a load, meaning less than 4 ohms, there is a good possibility that the amp overheated and damaged some internal components due to not enough resistance. Some of their amps have internal fuses that can be replaced. It may be time to visit a diagnostic shop.
Check the Inline Fuse -=Usually located Close to the battery in the engine copartment=- and also check the fuse in the AMP. Without knowing and seeing all of the details i would say to try to bypass the capicator, I know that i always unhooked my inline before jumping the car but i know it happens. Hopefully it will be just that a fuse or the capicator but if some sort of surge resulted from multiple failures get the amp bench tested at A car audio shop. Just some thoughts.
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