Well, I have to add, the new Maytags are a pale shadow of their former selves.
UPDATE re my own washer: I just cannot believe the evil iniquity of Fridgeaire/GE. The door latch, which I am now 90% sure is the culprit, is buried in the bowels of the washer so as to be practically speaking inaccessible. Retroactively, it occurred to me I should have just cut an "access panel" in the side of the damn washer -- but that was after a two hour dismantling job of the front panel etc in order to be able to remove the door latch.
But it gets worse -- the part (#131269400) is generally referred to "replacement part 131888900" which on the face of it saves you about $50. BUT (and it's a big but) it REQUIRES you to also replace one of the counterweights (!) which weighs 16 lbs (nice for the shippers, eh?) Having read a couple of Brit posts about trying to replace the counterweight and then finding that the wiring harness to the "replacement" doesn't exactly match up with the original to begin with, has convinced me to stay with the original part -- which I think I've located at Partselect -- but yes, costing abt $50 more than the "replacement part."
NEVER AGAIN -- when this washer finally bites the dust (and it will soon, as I found in dismantling it many cracked plastic pieces) I am never buying a damn GE/Fridgeaire product again. Any suggestions for the future buy are welcome.
We have the EXACT same problem. Were you successful in locating the original, old style latch? If so, please tell us where you got it. Thank you for any help!!!!
We have the EXACT same problem. Were you successful in locating the original, old style latch? If so, please tell us where you got it. Thank you for any help!!!!
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I have a frigidaire front load washer and am experiencing the same problem. The striker has been replaced and the problem is not resolved. I am hesitant to replace the door latch, as this wiring seems not to work. I contacted Frididaire and they gave me part number 131269400 but all parts suppliers seem to only have the new one 131888900. Do you suggest I not replace it?
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There is no fuser oil in this machine. Using the display and menu buttons, perform a FULL calibration up to three times and test for improvement. Not sure why upgrading firmware would interfere with scanner operation...it should not, and that would be my next recommendation. Good Luck!
Periods.......Nice little items because they denote the End of a sentence. See how this works?
"I have a vgn cs36gj, I was working with it, suddenly the LCD became pale
black, I connected it to external monitor and it has a picture,
sometimes after turning on for 30 minutes LCD start working normally,
but after turning off and disconnecting power when I turn it on, it only
shows a pale black picture, you know it is on but only black!"
Now you try it.........
"I have a vgn cs36gj. I was working with it, suddenly the LCD became pale
black. I connected it to external monitor and it has a picture."
Okay, I got that part.........
"sometimes after turning on for 30 minutes LCD start working normally,
but after turning off and disconnecting power when I turn it on, it only
shows a pale black picture, you know it is on but only black!"
WHICH LCD? Laptop LCD? External monitor LCD? Man on the moon LCD?
1) If the external monitor LCD goes 'pale black', the problem is the graphics chipset. This I do not believe
2) If the laptop LCD goes pale black, this I believe.
Sounds like you need to have the carb jets cleaned. You can try seafoam that you add to fuel tank and ride it to see if that will clear it up, but I have had the same problem with my VF750C Honda Magna with only 8000miles and mine turns out to be fine tuning the injectors. This is only after the carbs have been reworked and cleaned.
Center bearing going bad,Maytags have a history of this and the whole tub will have to be replaced cause the bearing is made no to come out and.it's best to get a extended warranty on all Maytags,the repairman is so busy now days.
yes see caps at top of trees caps come off at the bottom of shocks you will find a single think 9 mm bolt to drain oil out. Make sure you drain all the oil up and add the same amount that shocks are required nothing more nore less.....
We have the EXACT same problem. Were you successful in locating the original, old style latch? If so, please tell us where you got it.
Thank you for any help!!!!
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