My dryer quit mid cycle and will not power back on. I checked the breaker which did not appear to be tripped but reset it anyway. I have power from the breaker to the dryer outlet and from the outlet to the dryer. Is there a reset switch on these dryers? Please help - my laundry is piling up quickly!!! Thanks!
You have to send the model number off of the dryer,also if the dryer hasn't been taken apart and cleaned out also the vent line it could be clogged with lint and you could have popped the thermal fuse or something like that,you'll need a meter,unplug it take it apart and check the t-stats to see if one of them popped,or if it has a belt switch the belt could have broke but if you want to fix it send the model number and more info like any lights coming on but it won't start?if so then you know power is coming to the dryer but it won't start stuff like that.
SOURCE: dryer just quit
I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer Check the door switch, , Take back off dryer There is a fuse in the back its white oblong 2 wires coming from it, left side on blower outlet ..be carefull hook the 2 wires togather and if it comes on the fuse is bad needs replacing same way with the door switch.
SOURCE: whirlpool electric dryer keeps tripping main circuit breaker
First off, be sure the pigtail is wired correctly to the back of the unit. Black and red to the outside terminals, white to the middle, green to the frame or cabinet (should be a green screw close-by). If that is ok, you probably have an issue with possibly a bad pigtail, bad outlet, wiring issue, or possibly a bad circuit breaker or breaker box. Probably going to be more of a electrical problem than a appliance problem. Good Luck!!!!
SOURCE: My new maytag centennial electric keeps tripping
Hi Matt
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Thanks.
Len
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