The part of the door that connects to the switch cracked -- this resulted in the washer not working unless someone or something held the door tightly closed. I found the part (with some difficulty as GE had meanwhile changed the part number) and replaced it. But... same problem. The timing mechanism is either getting stuck or (what I suspect) is somehow the "locking connection" between the door part and the switch part are still not fully engaging and causing the washer to "lock up." I am also concerned that the now many times the washer has been found in this "stuck mode" (sometimes hours later) may have further contributed to the overall problem. The wiring harness/switch etc is abt $150 so I don't want to order/replace to find that's not the issue. Anybody with experience/ideas on this? Perhaps mildly related (and also annoying) is a persistent mild leak at bottom of door. I don't feel this washer has really gone the distance it should have -- but then I'm used to the old Maytags -- my mother bought one in 1962 that was still going strong in 1985 -- with one water pump replacement in the late 70s. Used for a family of six, too. Those were the days.
CU, where the heck do we start? You have already changed the door switch. Does the lock light come on when you start a cycle? If so I think we may be looking at the motor control board for a problem. The timer motor does not continuously run by itself. The motor control, controls the timer motor and advances the timer when needed. Remove the 6 pin harness from the motor control board. Measure the resistance between pins 1&2, 2&3 and 3 &1. If the meter reads other than 3meg ohms, the control board probably is at fault. As far as the timer itself, you want to check the timer motor resistance itself, if it reads open, it's a bad timer. You should find a tech sheet in the bottom section of this washer that can guide you along. This may be as simple as reseating the harnesses on the control board. With out being there I would lean more towards the motor controller.....Catriver...post back.
Posted on Aug 16, 2006
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Posted on Aug 10, 2006
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CATRIVER -- I may have confused you slightly -- I replaced the plastic door latch (only) so far.
I have now received the dreaded part 131888900 (substituting for 131269400 that I wanted, but seems to be unavailable). The iniquity of Frigidaire in requiring you to replace a counterweight in order to replace a door switch is astonishing. Must make UPS and others salivate -- 16lb + shipment for something that should weigh less than a pound. Morever it comes with a complete wiring harness, necessitating more additional work. (sigh). IF I were starting anew, I would just cut an access panel in the side of the bloody washer, but I have dismantled most of the top of the washer at this point to get access (I might have been able to do this from the bottom too, now that I've got that open as well.
Anyway, I believe this is the part that will cure the washer's ills, because pressing on the door (and holding it thruout the wash cycle) was correcting the problem.
Any hints in installing the counterweight and/or the new latch/harness are welcome, although some instructions did come with it.
I have, by the way, written to both Frigidaire and GE about how impossibly stupid their substitution is. Also for anyone in the future -- Frigidaire sells the part for abt $75 -- GE sells the SAME PART for over $140. Guess that "nameplate" is really important, eh?
Thanks Catriver, meanwhile for the advice above -- if I still have problems after installing this latch/harness, I'll follow up with the above -- but I hope unnecessary, or I will be wishing I had just replaced the whole damn washer.
Speaking of which (to all) any suggestions for my NEXT frontloader?
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