Ok im having similar problems as you seen up above. im not good with electronics as far as checking the B+ thing lol but my amps doin the same thing. i was intending to get my compacitor hooked up but i got set back b/c of money probs. So i had it for about 1 month and now its blowing my fuses and smoking (in amp that is). its smoking from the battery hook-up side.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: Smoking Amp/Fuse Blowing
Sounds like you may have a shorted switching Transistor in the switch mode power supply causing a short to ground. If you are technical enough. Remove power remove cover and do a continuity test on the transistors on the heatsink. non of them should read zero resistance between the three legs. in all connection configuration you use to hook up your meter. If one or Two or even all of them do you must replace with proper part.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
lol, did the dog have a black nose, & whiskers missing.
& a bad case of sneezes....lol.
that's a new one on me, but a funny one.
you say you bought a new power supply? was that the full thing or just part of it?
if part of it & it was the plug side, then silly question but have you checked the fuse & wall socket....
if thats all good, the next you'll wanna check the top of the capacitors inside the console, swipe your finger over them, they should be perfectly flat & not domed up in any way, if they are replace with EXACT same type, some people think" if i put a bigger size capacitor in it will stop it blowing so easy again" NOT TRUE.
look for the obvious....black on board, & smell of burnning..
great post and first to do fuse checks, for phantom drains.
G16 or J18 engine????
very good work. did you look at car in 100% dark,. all doors open , hood and trunk? called dark current checks.
and you are correct ,most fuses have many loads. some are 20 or more. (now windows ,usually)
DOME (im logged in to alldata.com so can you.....
Dome is doom, LOL called fuse #8 by suzuki.
a RED feed wire..... then white....
TCM, interior lights,trunk light,Radio, keyless,Clock and ECM
a real FSM make this far more easy, especially old cars.
and DC amp clamp meter 100x more easy.
alldata.com has the full set if schematics.
You stated your loadtested battery? Try another known good battery as I have seen very odd things happen with these maintainence free batterys sometimes such as polarity swapping. This would cause the same main fuse blowing as if you were hooking the battery up backwards.Then begin by un plugging the ignition switch. If fuse blowing stops the problem is in the harness somewhere between the fuse and ign. switch. Possible wire pinched or rubbed through and grounding. From the ignition switch the main fuse voltage goes to the distribution(common) side of the fuse box. Inspect the wiring from the switch to the fuse box. This problem has to be pre fuse box in location otherwise the lower amperage circuit fuse in the box would be blowing. Good luck!
Everything is not working. Check for power and ground at speakers. If not there check at amp or head unit. If there's no power there replace amp or head unit. Probably need to replace whatever was smoking before it catches fire. Listening to music will be the last thing on your mind if that happens.
there are two things on that model year that it most likely will be one is the speed sensor has gone out and that will be located on the drivers side near the back of the transmission the other possible cause i have seen is the cluster it self
The fan may run with jumper wires but if it''s blowing the 30 Amp Maxifuse it's needs a new or used fan motor.It's pulling too many amps.I have almost never seen a fan relay concern.Only other thing you may check is the wiring down near the fan shoud I have seen the 2 wires get loose from the conduit & melt onto exhaust manifold.Hope tHis Helps
This usually happens when there is a problem with the main power supply and is relatively rare. If you can post the make and model, I can give you some things to check if you are somewhat familiar with electronics.