Burnt wiring need wiring diagram

buy a workshop for the vehicle as the wiring diagrams are in the electrical section

Johan, there is no way to determine if the 'gas is still full' if the compressor is not running.....so it could be locked off on a low pressure switch because all the 'gas' is already leaked out.

If the contactor is pulled in when the thermostat calls for cooling, but the compressor does not run check for full voltage on the incoming side of the contactor as well as on the outgoing side of the contactor. If its going in and not coming out, the contactor is bad. If is coming out and the compressor is not running, look for a burnt wire first on the contactor then on the compresor dome. Look too for a burnt wire on the capacitor on the terminals marked 'C' and 'Herm'. Check to see if the capacitor is expanded or swollen up. If it is, it is shorted or open internally and allowing the compressor to overheat.

You probably need to call a competent repairman unless you are comfortable working with high voltage and capable of understanding basic wiring principles and able to follow the wiring diagrams to determine where the fault is.

Safety is no accident. You will be exposed to dangerous wire connections and should only trouble shoot with the power on IF you are competent around electricity.

sears.com

Hi my name is Luke and I bought a Ingersoll-Rand 7.5 compressor and won’t start. I noticed it has a wire not connected on the capacitors it’s a blue wire that reads t5 v3 there’s a capacitor with open prong before two start caps and another capacitor after the two start caps , at least that’s what it reads on caps unless they have been wired wrong , being that I would think the start up caps should be wired first from powers supply box , want to know where it went Before I went trying to change capacitors and there’s 5 here’s a pic

If the outside fan is running, (assuming the inside fan is too) then you can bet you have a compressor 'not' running. You know the fuses/breaker are good, otherwise, the outside fan wouldn't be running.

If you're lucky you have a wire burnt off the compressor and a honest tech will fix that for you - fairly cheap - probably around $150.

Or, you could do it yourself.

1) shut off all electricity to the unit, i.e. turn the breaker off or pull the fuse block. You'll find the breaker and or fuse block in the little gray electrical box mounted usually on the side of the house, but in any event somewhere close to the outside unit. If you're not sure - just follow the electrical conduit from the outside unit to the gray electrical box.

2) go to the compressor and pull the little plastic cap from where the wires all are. Usually this little plastic cap has a metal snap of some sort holding it in. But once you get the cap off - if you're lucky you'll have a wire burnt off one of the compressor terminals. If that's the case - all you have to do is get a new connection back on the wire and slide it on the vacant terminal.

Note: it's possible to have 'two' wires burnt off - in which case it might be a little more difficult - because then you will have 'two' vacant terminals. At this point it might be wise to get a service tech to help you out - to make sure you get the wires back on correctly.

3) once you have the formerly burnt wire back on the compressor terminal - you just need to be sure the new connection is 'tight.' Remember when it comes to electrical connections - 'make them tight,' otherwise you'll have problems.

4) put the breaker back in the up position or insert the fuse block back in - and turn the AC back on using the inside thermostat.

5) if it's not a burnt (off) wire - then my guess is you're looking at compressor problems and it's time to call a service tech.

good luck!

The green should be connected to the chassis, it is ground.
There should be a wiring diagram on it to tell you how to do this, but if not:

There may be T-leads on the motor labeled
P1, P2, T3,T4,T5,T8

P1-L1(black wire)
P2-cap/tape don't use.
T2,T3, and T5 wire nut together
T4,T-8 wire nut together with L2(white)

The power leads will be coming from your switch box on the compressor body itself. Don't wire the 220v directly to the motor, you replace the leads where the first motor was connected on the cutoff switch. There will be only 2 leading from the switch to the motor.

This should help get you back on track: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/New%20Wires/New%20Wires/Wires/maz62695-97.htm
Hope it helps!

if you indeed have a 23852 hunter original...

Black goes to L, High is Red, Gray is medium and yellow is low. Make sure you have the right switch.

I would go back to person who gave that advice because just the right touch on that capacitor and YOU my friend will be in the hospital. If this is helpful, please post as such. TY