Question about GE Profile JGSP48 Gas Kitchen Range

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We lost power today and know my oven doesn't work.

I have tried the usual stuff. I reset the breaker even though it didn't need it. I also reset the GFI. I even reset the clock. Each of these did not fix the problem. I can turn on the broiler but the oven does not come on. Any ideas before I call out the repair man? Thanks, Jim

Posted by Jim Allen on

  • wott Nov 19, 2007

    I have a combination of the problems described for this model. Initially I had the two right hand stove burners that would not ignite so I decided to open up the cooktop to see if I could figure out the problem. I turned off the power and closed the gas valve on the attached regulator and proceeded to take the whole thing apart but did not find anything unusual. After putting everything back together lo and behold the front burner worked but the rear did not. Afterwards I stumbled across the post on regarding the switches and was able to ignite the burner by activating another switch. Get a new switch mechanism, problem solved.

    Unfortunately, I went to use the oven last night and it seemed to turn on (fan blowing) but never heated up. Same for the broiler. I reset the breakers with no luck and my wife is requesting I get someone in to help since Thanksgiving is 3 days away. Do you think I could have damaged the control panel? Could it be the ignitors? It would seem a coincidence that both failed. Is there any safety mechanisms that may be triggering if I didn't get everything back together?

    I just thought of one other thing. When I shut off the regulator that is behind the bottom drawer I turned on one of the burners to empty the gas, however, it didn't seem to slow down. I believe I opened the valve again but it uses a little flip switch that did not provide much feedback if it is open or closed. Are there two regulators for the oven and stovetop and could I have been adjusting the oven and do not have the valve opened properly to provide gas to the oven?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.




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Ron Marek

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Jim, In reading your post I'm assuming the control panel is operational. According to the model number it is a slide in range. You need to remove the lower panel and the flame spreader in the oven and see if your ignitor is coming on. It will be attached to the rear of the burner tube. In order to open the gas valve it needs to draw at least 3 amps and a steady 3.4 to 3.6 amps during heating. If your handy you can test this with a clamp on ammeter. Ohming it out should show around 171K ohms. On this model this rectangular ignitor is not interchangable with the cylindrical generic ignitor, they draw different amperage and use different gas valves. This is not a hard job to do, just need to take your time and back.

Posted on Aug 01, 2006


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That is caused by the high temperature reached on self cleaning, that can jam the control board or damage the door lock or the temperature probe.

Try first tripping circuit breaker or disconnecting power cord for five minutes.
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If still no luck, then the oven is faulty in consequence of the extreme temperature reached in self cleaning.

If the Oven has regular display, then faulty part is usually the temperature probe.

If oven has no display, then the control board may had been damaged.

I can understand what problems a faulty oven can be in this moment.

Try first the reset, if that does not work, ring the number listed at the end of the owners manual to see if today any technician is available.

A local technician could easily put back the oven to work, replacing the probe, the point is that it will be difficult to find a technician right now.

Let me know if the reset works.


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