Blowing fuse... We've replaced the overheating fuse located in the control board area about 5 times. It has just blown again after using the dishwaser one time--before it would go about a month before blowing the fuse. It seems to get about a few minutes away from completing the wash cycle and does not complete the draining process. Help!! We don't know what to do next--replacing the fuse is costing about $15 each time, before you know it we could have bought a new one! Thanks for the help. Tim

check all of the connections and try to find out what made it blow. it may have been damaged again but not as obvious this time.

How to Change Treadmill Fuses ' LIVESTRONG.COM

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Sep 29, 2015 - If the fuse on your treadmill has blown, it's time to replace it. ... Thetreadmill fuses are located inside the elevation motor. If you don't have the ...

Treadmill blowing fuse. ' All About Circuits

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Sep 1, 2014 - I have recently picked up a second hand treadmill with an issue (York Challenger ... If I unplug the motor from the control board it will not blow the fuse, and will give ... Not sure yet, but i'll replace the IGBT's/power mosfet (I still don't know whats ... Treadmill goes high speed then blows the fuse
Nov 25, 2015
Treadmill blows fuse as soon as it starts
Sep 29, 2015
treadmill motor controller problem?
Aug 25, 2012
Treadmill Controller - No power to motor
Feb 11, 2012
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Might have to go for the whole board this time if you do not come across any parts that are obviously bad

If it was run without the fan a thermal protect device was more than likely taken out. Check for that and replace the fan.

The pump may not be seating tight against the bucket,
There are four bolts on the gal plate you can tighten to make pump seat tighter on the bucket.

Hi, if you have no power, 24volts to your stat, remove your panel on the indoor unit to look at the control board. It will have a 3 to 5 amp fuse plugged into it. See if it is blown. If it is good, the next thing to check is the 120 voltx24volt transformer located in the control area.More then likely, you have blown that fuse for some reason. If you replace it and it blows again right off, you have a dead short on your secondary low voltage side. You will need to look for any stat wires that may be touching metal, the board may be bad. Pull or kill power to the indoor unit, remove the 4 screws holding the board in place, work it to where you can look at the back side for any hot spots, burned spots.If you find that it is, your board needs to be replaced. They do burn out very easy, a very common thing. Please let me know what you have found.
Shastalaker7
A/C Contractor

If your refrigerator has had a recall done on it I would check the L shaped bracket that was added as part of the recall, as it may have pinched thermal flame sensor and driving may slightly reposition it to cause an intermittent short blowing your 15 a fuse in rv panel. Remove it from the retaining fingers and slightly reposition fingers loosely around black insulation sleeve and reattach it to the previous location with the 2 sheet metal screws.
Now if the refrigerator won't come on at all check the resetable hi limit switch that is riveted to your units boiler area a few inches above your gas flame area. It has a button you can press located in between the 2 connectors.
Check for 12 VDC at the nylon terminal block in front of your main board AND on terminal J4. If power is there follow to the resetable hi limit switch on boiler. If you don't have power at all you may very well have a control board failure. You should check all 3 fuses on the control board also. So check all 4 Fuses (ONE) 15A on the RV Panel and the (THREE) fuses on the main board. If any of them are blown you can replace them ONCE only. If it blows the 15A Fuse on the RV panel again your going to have to locate the short most often from the RV panel to the main board on the refrigerator. If the fuses on the mainboard blow your going to have to troubleshoot the refrigerator wiring.

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Kelly

Usually when a scooter dies, there is an event that preceded the dead state that caused the fault. What were you doing before it went dead?

The biggest culprit for scooters and power chairs is moisture. With a scooter, there are two components most susceptible. One is located inside the top of the tiller and it is an electonics board about 6"x4" in size. If you had the scooter out in the rain without protection over the tiller, water can encroach into this area and short the board. Or, a coke or coffee spill can short it. There's a fuse on the board and if it is blown, then likely the board is shot as the fuse merely keeps the tiller from going into a total meltdown in the event of a short. Boards run about $25.00 to $45.00 to replace. Inspect it and look for any signs of overheating or corrosive buil-up and see if the fuse has blown.

The second component is located under the shroud beneath the seat. It is a small metal box which is the power control module and it controls all of the operations of the scooter. It has several wires going into and coming out of it (on-board chargers for some scooters will only have one wire going in and one coming out, sometimes two). These boxes are water resistant, but are susceptible to damage if the scooter has been run through a puddle and a lot of water has splashed up onto it. These are several hundred dollars to replace, but first check all of the fuses coming off the batteries that will lead from the battery to this control box and insure that it isn't a blown fuse. These fuses generally don't blow unless the scooter was operated beyond its capabilities, like driving it in sand, mud or other unstable terrain that puts an enormous strain on the motor and pulling a lot of juice from the batteries. Finally, check all of the connections that clip together. Don't rely on a visual inspection, take them apart, and reconnect them all to insure a good, tight fit.

Hope this helps.

Just cleaning is not enought.The terminal is loose and that isusually the problem most of the time.Replace them with new ones and I think you be happy.

To Person who answered Best Solution above,
This worked nicely thank you.
After removing my circuit board the long silver strip was intact, however where it makes the turn about quarter inch, the solder or foil seam had a break in it which I filled-gap with solder.
My guess is if the "foil" or thin 2" long strip is serving as a fuse, it would still melt again even with my solder on the shorter section, in event of overload. Also seen on the plastic area directly behind where the circuit board would mount, and where the "foil" was blown, was a small blackened area as evidence of the blown foil. 2 new bulbs and all is well again Thanks!