Blowing fuse... We've replaced the overheating fuse located in the control board area about 5 times. It has just blown again after using the dishwaser one time--before it would go about a month before blowing the fuse. It seems to get about a few minutes away from completing the wash cycle and does not complete the draining process. Help!! We don't know what to do next--replacing the fuse is costing about $15 each time, before you know it we could have bought a new one! Thanks for the help. Tim

you may have a short of some kind, when a fuse blows repeatedly it is no good just replacing, you are being told that something is wrong with the equipment.
You will almost certainly have to visit a technician for a diagnosis. It is unlikely to be something that an inexperienced end user can sort out I am afraid.

GOOD LUCK

The pump may not be seating tight against the bucket,
There are four bolts on the gal plate you can tighten to make pump seat tighter on the bucket.

the fuse is located in the circuit board in the blower compartment and the roll-out is located in the burner section and can be a reset-able switch style or the one time fuse link style which is a a small silver cylinder and is mounted in a ceramic piece and is held in with one screw. Both of these are mounted around the opening of the your burner assembly near the opening. This will be near the area of the gas valve.

Usually a bad regulator will only cause problems with charging...
Sounds like you've got a short somewhere in the wiring...I'd start by checking the ignition switch wiring and the connections going into the fuse box.

Hi, if you have no power, 24volts to your stat, remove your panel on the indoor unit to look at the control board. It will have a 3 to 5 amp fuse plugged into it. See if it is blown. If it is good, the next thing to check is the 120 voltx24volt transformer located in the control area.More then likely, you have blown that fuse for some reason. If you replace it and it blows again right off, you have a dead short on your secondary low voltage side. You will need to look for any stat wires that may be touching metal, the board may be bad. Pull or kill power to the indoor unit, remove the 4 screws holding the board in place, work it to where you can look at the back side for any hot spots, burned spots.If you find that it is, your board needs to be replaced. They do burn out very easy, a very common thing. Please let me know what you have found.
Shastalaker7
A/C Contractor

If your refrigerator has had a recall done on it I would check the L shaped bracket that was added as part of the recall, as it may have pinched thermal flame sensor and driving may slightly reposition it to cause an intermittent short blowing your 15 a fuse in rv panel. Remove it from the retaining fingers and slightly reposition fingers loosely around black insulation sleeve and reattach it to the previous location with the 2 sheet metal screws.
Now if the refrigerator won't come on at all check the resetable hi limit switch that is riveted to your units boiler area a few inches above your gas flame area. It has a button you can press located in between the 2 connectors.
Check for 12 VDC at the nylon terminal block in front of your main board AND on terminal J4. If power is there follow to the resetable hi limit switch on boiler. If you don't have power at all you may very well have a control board failure. You should check all 3 fuses on the control board also. So check all 4 Fuses (ONE) 15A on the RV Panel and the (THREE) fuses on the main board. If any of them are blown you can replace them ONCE only. If it blows the 15A Fuse on the RV panel again your going to have to locate the short most often from the RV panel to the main board on the refrigerator. If the fuses on the mainboard blow your going to have to troubleshoot the refrigerator wiring.

Thanks for choosing FixYa

Kelly

from your description, it seems the little fuse is overheating sometimes, a short is a short and an immidiate fuse blower. i would use a higher amperage fuse, 30 amps. any electronic tech can replace this, doesnt have to be your Gaggenau guy, as it seems to me hes made a regular income of this

blowing fuse only indicates that there is power surges in your area. in order to avoid blowing your fuse again. you may need to a have a surge supressor and auto voltage regulator used for your receiver and any appliance that may need it.

Hi there!
If the fuse rating is correct as indicated on the board, then the PTC is probably busy going faulty. If not sure where it is located, normally on the front where the switch is and where the coil that sits around the tube is connected to the board. Little plastic box with three pins(sometimes two) black or cream in colour. Some circuits use a disc type with 2 legs, however not sure on your set. This is called the degausing circuit and demagnetises the tube every time you switch the TV on. Good luck, JUS004