This device has worked well for a couple of years with an attached hose running to a basement sump. It's never been configured to collect the water in its internal collection bin. Suddenly, it's started flashing its 'full' warning light and shutting itself off. I've found that removing and replacing the bin lets me restart the unit normally, though not sure how long it will run.
Ours did the same thing. The reason I think the switch is OK is because I can reach in and push the bar (that is suspended inside the unit and makes contact with the bar/foam float in the water receptacle) and the unit runs fine.
Although our unit also ran trouble-free for a year or so before the constant "full" indicator, I have determined that the bar in the water receptacle is too short (?) to make proper contact. I know this makes no sense, esp. given that everything about the unit seems in new condition, but I added a short "extender" to the bar with paper and tape and it is working fine now.
An odd fix, but I'm not complaining anymore.
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Re: Bogus 'Full' warning
This sounds like the tank detection switch is bad. It probably has succumbed to the high moisture environment that it is living in. The switch is inside the opening where the tank fits and serves to shut down the unit if the tank is full. If you remove the tank and look in the opening with a flashlight you should be able to identify the switch. It may or may not have a float on the end of it. Once you find it you can check it with a multimeter. If you don't have one they are inexpensive and easy to use. With the DMM on the continuity setting, and the power disconnected to the unit, check the contacts on the switch. If the switch is good it should show continuity or a very low resistance. If the switch is bad the meter will show a high or infinite resistance. Anything above a couple of ohms would be suspect. In that case get a new switch and replace it. This should solve your problem. Good luck.
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You will need to use a drain hose that is no longer than 5 feet. Using a hose relies entirely on gravity. So, the hose must slope downward with no kinks. A short 5' section of Garden Hose works well. The female coupling end attaches to the dehumidifier. It's a very effective way, not to having to stop and drain the tank time it's full.
The ADEW50LP, is a low Temperature Unit, which designed for basement applications. The ADER50LP, is a standard unit. Used for all applications, other than a basement. Both have the external drain feature and the same water extraction capacity.
The fifty pint capacity might be a challenge ... think about this ... 6 + gallon tank @ 7+ pounds per gallon ... 42 pounds of water to drag from the dehumidifier to the drain? Who is going to do that?
All dehumidifiers run at some % of humidity (via Humistat), (like you are asking about) i.e. come on at some % above the setting and go off when the setting is reached. I suggest you find one that has a standard one or two gallon tank that also features a hose connection in the tank. Run the hose from the tank to the floor drain in your basement or a drain near what ever room you are trying to dry out. When you connect the hose --- you will have to put a hole into the fitting on the tank for water to flow. The idea of the tank is that the machine will run on the setting until the tank fills up ... at which time the tank full switch will not allow the machine to run again until you dump the water (and you want to drag a 6+ gallon tank, 42+ pounds, around?) . If there is a hose attached, the tank never fills up.
Some dehumidifiers feature a pump to which will pump the water to a near-by drain. You may be able to rig such a setup yourself using a small pump like a fish pond pump or similar.
You may want to consider using two dehumidifiers (with or without hoses) rather than one BIG machine. I run two machines from a major USA retailer (one in each end of the basement) and they run into the near by sump and the system works fine @ my house.Thanks for your
The hose attachment is used in place of the water collection bucket, to drain the water directly into a floor drain or a sump pump holding tank. A garden hose is connected to the "hose attachment" and run to the floor drain or sump pump holding tank. However, it will not drain UP, only DOWN.
safety switch is turning off the dehumidifier....you need to drain out the bucket more often....or put the drain hose into an actual drain....ive seen some people run a small plastic hose from the dehumidifier to the sump pump hole in their basement.
I have a Goldstardehumidifier, Model DH305Y6. I bought it about 5 years ago at a local Walmart. During the summer I run it in the basement, here in south-central Pa. When it was brand new it worked very well, for about 2 yrs. Then it began turning on & off very irregularly. At first I thought it was the sensor on the front of the coils. So I moved it to the lower left side of the coils, and had the same results. The other day the water heater in the basement developed a leak. About 300 gals. of water covered the floor. After sumping/wet-vac'ing down to a wet carpet, I pulled out the dehumidifier and plugged it in,(the filter was cleaned before put away last summer). It began its on/off cycling again. It runs for about 2-3 mins., then shuts off for about 5-10 mins. So, I took the On/Off switch apart and read the resistance. It read 48k, for the 50k switch. I turned the switch all the way left to all the way right and it went from 48k, down to about 8k. The two wires to the switch were attached to the #2 and #3 poles,(only 3 poles). I did some testing, then removed the wires and re-soldered them to the #1 and #3 poles. I put everything back together, and now it works. It runs constantly, but it works/runs just fine. I need to get the basement dry, so I will let it run until the job is done. In the Spring I will get a new 50k potentiometer,(on/off switch), and see if that works. I will post results if I remember to.
I thnk you are expecting too much from your machine. DO NOT RUN IT WHEN IT IS FROZEN!
This is what I would do. Slow down the process. You shuld be agle to select the % humidity you seek. Set it high, say 90. Get another fan in your basement working to sirculate the air. When your machine has achieved this goal without excessive running and freezing, go to 85% or 80%. It may help if you direct a small fan at the coil that freezes.
Are you certain your machine drains properly? Hose to a sump pump? Is the sump pumping properly?
And lastly, you may want to add a second machine. I operate two in my basement and they keep it 50% in the summer. My basement is about 4000 cubic feet.
WHEN I BROUGHT MINE I HAVE A HOSE RUNNING TO A FLOOR DRAIN BUT REMOVE THE HOSE SEE IF THERE IS A PLASTIC COVER INSIDE WHERE THE HOSE HOOKS ON FROM THE FACTORY THE CONDENSATE PAN IS MENT TO HOLD WATER AND THIS PLASTIC PIECE HAS TO BE REMOVED FOR HOSE USE
There will be some form of lever or activation device that depresses when the bucket is inserted. There should be a way to move it to a permenant "on position". Make sure you have a model with a humidity sensor or the thing will just run forever. It may be that if your model doesn't have a humidty sensor there is no way to "force" it to stay on although that would make no sense if there is a hose attachment to drain constantly to a sump pump, etc. Have you tried going to a store like Sears and just looking at a dehumidifier? Ask a clerk how the thing works if you attach a hose to it. You might be surprised what you can learn from just nosing around the hardware and small appliance section.
Usually all you have to do is to remove any cap on the outlet fitting, attach the hose, & make sure it has a downhill run to the drain or well. Visual inspection should be enough to guarantee no obstructions exist.