There are two reasons could cause washer's overfilling. - A defective water entrance valve - Water supply to the dishwasher is done through an electromagnet valve,loocated at the water pipe's enterance to the machine. A defect in the valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it, and the valve may leak and drip water into the tub.You can easyly open the valve and clean it (from scale or other dirt). Be aware you should disconnect the power cable from the machine before doing it !!!!! and to close water main tap to the machine. In case cleaning doesn't help, you should replace the valve. - Water switch level - I am not familiar with this specific machine, but there are 2 types of level switches. 1)A diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. 2)Floating switch that located inside the dishwasher's bottom and operate a switch. In case there is a floating switch in your dishwasher - check for its smooth movment and check as well the switch by a multi-meter (an on/off switch). Defective switch should be replaced. If level switch in your dishwasher is a diaphragm device - Open the rear panel, find the device and clear first any obstruction in the tube.In case it doesn't help, disconnect the wires from the unit (you should disconnect first machine's power cable !!!!!) and measure with a multi-meter on its tugs for continuity and disconnection while you are inhale and blow to its tube. In case it will not react, you should replace it. Good luck !!
Posted on Jul 02, 2006
Responding to Dovi's post - I have a Kenmore series 70 Washing macine (circa 2005). I was having this tub-overflow problem. At first I thought it was the diaphram, but later (thanks to your post) I realized it was the Water entrance valve.
Two things I'd like to add here:
1. On my machine, the ability to take the valve apart and clean it, didn't seem apparent. I like to think of myself a mechanically inclined, but I still didn't see a way. It looked like a sealed unit - and that may just be the way it is on my machine.
2. But, a trouble-shooting tip I can offer here to anyone else with this problem is this:
a.) Dovi's post what made sense to me was that this valve (in this case the cold water entrance) should only be open it has power. So, when the machine was unplugged and the feed hoses disconnected. I blew int the inlet - no resistance. Ah ha!
b.) To confirm, I blew on the Hot-water entrance valve - complete resistance. So, that told me the coldwater entrance valve was stuck open.
c.) since I could find a easy way to dissasemble the unit, I just lightly tapped on it with a screw driver a few times to unstick the valve. Then blew on it again. Repeated process until I had complete resistance.
Lastly, if it does this again - I'll just order another valve.
Thanks for the post Dovi. Very, very helpful.
- Steve
Posted on Feb 09, 2008
The pump on your washer is apparently not working. It should have pumped the water out when the FL was displayed. You should schedule service and let a technician diagnose and repair the washer.
Flood Condition F L "FL" flashes if any overfill condition occurs. This condition occurs when excessive water in the tub causes the overfill switch to trip. The control must realize that the trip was due to an overfill condition instead of a suds lock condition in order for "FL" to be displayed. With an overfill condition, the beeper repeats a warning every 10 seconds with no time out. The pump is cycled in drain mode for 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off until the overfill switch resets or power is discontinued to the unit.
Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display.
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