Question about Kenmore 23012 Top Load Washer
When machine is at end of spin, the drum vibrates and makes thumping noises as though clothing is not evenly distributed. Does this even when machine does not have cloths inside. Also noticed small spot of oil on floor under machine. What could be cause of drum going out of balance at end of spin? and the oil on floor same problem or new problem. Thank you
Sounds like the drive block is defective. The drive bloce is a aluminum part that attaches the drun to the gearcase. If you remove the agitator you will see a large nut on top of the basket. If the drive block is worn yo will see aluminum peices on top. It is very simle to relace. You will need a spanner wrench to remove the nut. With the nut removed lift the spin basket up and out. Remove the block. You will see that the new block will only fit on one way. Tap it down untill it will not go any further, replace the basket, make sure you tighten the nut securly replace the agitator and you will be back washing.
Posted on Jul 12, 2007
Navy, sounds like you have a worn drive block, common on Kenmores. The drive block sits under the basket. It's about a 5 dollar part. The top of the spin tube has 2 ears that lock into the drive block. If the ears on the spin tube are worn down or the drive block itself is worn, you will get this symptom at the end of the spin. This is not a hard fix...Good luck.
Posted on Jun 27, 2006
I don't familiar with your machine, but washing machines has 3 ways to provide a balanced tub movment : - 3 damper pads beneath main support housing on base of machine - Shock absorber springs. - Pistons shock absorber. Check which of these are used in your machine and their status. In case of damper pades you should replace them all. In case of a pistons shock absorbers, it could explain the spot of oil under your machine. Good luck !!
Posted on Jun 26, 2006
I HAVE A FRIGIDARE FEZ831AS1 W/D IT RINSES CLOTHES BUT ON SPINNING CYCLE ITS NOT SPINNING. I HAVE OPENED IT UP AND FOUND SOME PEICES THAT LOOKS LIKE BEARINGS. CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME ON WHERE IT COULD OF CAME FROM.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
Does anyone know what size spanner wrench I will need to remove the nut?
Thank you for your time.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
No question in my mind that it is the drive block. Just replaced mine. Spin tube "ears" had some how chewed up the keys on the drive block and the tub would not stop when the braking system was engaged. This resulted in the tub spinning (along with it's drive block) over the spin tube "ears", making the thumbing noise.
Posted on Oct 13, 2007
Oil, rattling noise, nearing 5 years? Main bearing and seal, these machines have about a 5 year life before the seal/bearing gives out. Time to junk it or replace the tub ass'y
Posted on Jul 31, 2007
I had a very similar problem with a Maytag Atlantis. The solution was a new transmission. The oil is leaking from the transmission. Sorry.
Posted on Jun 29, 2007
My Ariston w/d combo has gotten really loud in the spin cycle, so I know where you're coming from. It has a belt drive, and I suspect that the belt is loose. It could also be a simple as the feet needing to be leveled. I'm going to check with a level on mine.
Posted on Apr 20, 2007
There are 2 concrete weights bolted to the drum assembly top and bottom. Make sure that all the bolts are tight. Good luck!
Posted on Feb 06, 2007
I had the same problem with my calypso washer. the bearing went bad, and after 5 years i threw it out. I repair Maytags for a living and it wasn't worth my time and effort to repair.
Posted on Jun 16, 2007
I just went through the same issue with my Kenmore front loading washing machine. I assumed (and a Sears repairman also told me) that it is the bearings. After I took the drum assembly out, I saw the rear drum broken and the inner tub hitting the outer tub. I ordered the outer drum assembly and only when I took the inner drum assembly out I realized the the "Spider" attached to the inner drum (and spindle) was broken. Entire drum assembly cost $417 + shipping and it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a new washer. I like the front loaders because they save water and good for the environment, but the US manufacturers have not yet perfected the technology like European manufacturers (or they don't want the machines to last too long just like cars). Anyway, I am looking into welding the spider tomorrow. If not will return the outer tub assembly and buy a top loading washer for $300!
Posted on Mar 07, 2008
SOURCE: washing machine
it could be the break above the transmission. it engages what looks like break shoes when the machine is not spinning. if these are worn down to the rivets then it will make this noise. it requires a special tool to replace.
Posted on Jul 14, 2008
You need to replace the drive block and basket drive. You can download a tutorial to get you started at www.shop.washermd.com. The gearcase replacement tutorial will put you in the right direction. Dave
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
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Distribute the load of clothes when you put it in. Make sure they are balanced properly. If it's thumping during the spin cycle, stop it, open it up, move some clothes from the fuller side to the less full side, and see if that helps. Replace the springs inside the machine which suspend the washing drum. Open it up, take a look of it. Perhaps they're all saggy and this is permitting excessive vibration.
Put something under the machine to stop it from transmitting the vibrations to the floor of the house. An old sock folded several times and placed under each of the four feet may help. Rubber or foam will also work. Also, make certain the machine is level from front to back and side to side. Most washing machines have a large weight attached to the drum, usually a concrete block. It's supposed to prevent too much vibration. Check that one or more of the bolts holding it on haven't come loose.
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