Amp is on but nothing coming out of Sub

1.Cut the appropriate size hole.
2. be sure the amp supports your sub with the proper impedance.
3.wire the plate to the sub
4. apply sealant to the plate where it touches the box. sealant, not glue.
5. connect you plate amp to power socket.
6. setup your preferences with the knobs on the plate amp, sub sonic, LPF, boost, gain etc.
check for leaks and fix them.

If your Sony receiver has a separate sub output, it probably has a fixed level for application to a powered sub. Your mono amp can only boost the fixed signal level it receives from your receiver. The receiver can't drive that mono amp harder

the bas control nob is just a grimack end a waste of money,You don,t need it because all the decks in the last 8 years have,Sub level control on them, Where you can adjust the level of bas from the (Deck) All your asking for to happen, Buy all so useing the bas control for the amp, Is to (Blow) Your (Subs) End fry your amp, When you use both of them for controling the bass, You are causeing the sub end the amp to over heat, I installed car audio for over 40 years , before i retired this summer, End seen lots of amps end subs that were damage, Buy guys haveing them hookup all so,End anouther thing that damage subs end amps, When they have the grain control on the amp crank right up.

Are those rms wattage?

Anyways, your subs (if you have two) will double the power of your amp, meaning your amp will be under powering your subs. Nothing will get blown out but will never see their full potential. But if you were to use single sub with your amp then you are more likely see the full potential of the sub and amp.

2 subs=2200 watts is just twice the power of the amp output power!

Yes, technically you can, however you will be putting both your sub and your amp at risk. One of the worst things you can do to a sub is underpower it. The easiest way to explain it is n ot giving enough power to the sub leaves it starving for power. The motor structure ends up working too hard to try and move the cone properly and what happens is the sub will usually seize up rather than blowing out in the term you usually hear (ie, I had my system cranked up and I blew my subwoofer).

Secondly, in an attempt to get any real sound out of the under powered sub, you'll probably end up cranking the gain and bass boost on the amp which ends up overworking the amplifier quite a bit and can in turn lead to fried out amp chips, burnt up circuit boards etc.

Thirdly, by maxing the gain bass boost you're going to end sending a lot of distortion through your subwoofer in an attempt to get some decent bass. Distortion kills both subwoofers and speakers alike.

So to answer your question, yes you can hook up your subwoofer to that amp and yes, it will probably play for a while but I wouldn't recommend it. Look for a class d or mono block amp to push your sub as these will give you the most power and best heat dissipation. They are designed to push subwoofers specifically and you will get better sound and longer life out of your equipment. A good rule of thumb is look for an amp within 100-150 watts of both your RMS power handling and your Peak power. Remember, when it doubt, always go a little bigger on the amp side of the spectrum. It's easy to "tune down" an amp by having the gain and bass boost at a lower level (50%, 25% etc), than to turn 'em all the way up just to get some bass and end up prematurely blowing out your sub, amp or even worse, both.

Your best bet is to buy a cap. A capacitor is an external battery booster like device. It boost power to amp. The thicker the wire the better. Power and ground. Shorter thicker ground wire the better. Make sure it is not on a painted surface. Scrape down to metal surface!!!!

This is caused because the stereo you have put in, is a high power output, or higher than the factory and puts that extra power into the factory amp systems causing the amp to surge the power to the speaker resulting in the pop sound,most newer cars use a stereo system without an internal amp so as to reduce heat and a external amp in usually under a seat or dash and a high power stereo boost the output of the amp.

Hello bigmac208,

Yes, that would be the best connection for both the subs and the amp.

I'd wire the sub voice coils in series since the amp will not be stable at 2 ohms when the channels are bridged. The power will be somewhere between 100-200 watts RMS to each sub. While it's not pavement pounding, it should provide pretty good bass, especially if you tweak the crossover and boost settings for best bass response.

Hope this helps.

i can tell you right now base on the vehicle you have a bad system hook wosrt if you are using factory head unit

You should get power even without the RCA cable.

I believe you should take time and check your connection.
please use the right cable for your sub. you need the right cable
to boost the sub. Check radio shark or Sam Ask for better sub cable.The better one don't come with your system.

Good luck