My tv power does not come on

Most of the time you have defective door switches that make the fuse blow.

What you can do is get yourself a service manual from here:
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

They also have spare parts and offer free online advice as you attempt a DIY. The issue is most likely a cold solder somewhere on the power board or some faulty capacitors. If you want to go in for a long term solution, you can easily replace the whole power board or just change the faulty capacitors. You will have to open the back panel and take a look. You can make out which are faulty, because their caps will be swollen on top. Here's a sample pic of a bust capacitor (not same model):

Check the specifications of the faulty capacitors, and get the replacements from your local electronics shop. If you are comfortable with this, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to G-E-N-T-L-Y pull out the defunct capacitors. Once that is done, solder in the new capacitors carefully. If are unsure how to do this, try to get a friend who knows this kinda stuff to do it for you, or get a qualified technician.
Warning: If you do not have a background in electronics repair, or are inexperienced, get a qualified technician to do it for you.

REMEMBER there are very dangerous voltages inside a TV that can KILL. Be sure to work SAFE when dealing with electricity. DISCONNECT THE POWER BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING.

Hope that helps!

Sounds like you may have a wire grounding out some where i would try tracing them down from the tank forward.

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/detail/supportPrdDetail.do?menu=SP01&prd_ia_cd=&prd_mdl_cd=&prd_mdl_name=LN40A530P1F
If a fuse blows like that there is a major problem, inside. I suspect that what your are seeing is the inrush thermistor, and they exhibit this under great load. I would explect that this fault maybe in the actual PSU. Due to the lack of service manual support, i would get a quote for repair from an authorised service center.

If it only happens when you turn the switchto the parking lights then it is most likely the swich that is the problem. Light swich failure appears to be a common fault with fords

These things draw a huge surge current when turned on. What size fuse are you blowing? These things can surge 10-12 amps on turn-on. What about a fuse with a reset button. They will take alittle more surge before they go. Don't matter about the insignia working before because the cheaper sets tend to stay powered up more when off....thus not surging on from a dead start. Could you try a different plug on a different circuit/fuse? and see if that makes a difference. If you have a 15 amp fuse, then your pretty close with other stuff plugged in. What size is your service? Do you still have an original 60 amp box with screw in fuses? Is it an old house?

Assuming you are absolutely sure the TV is getting power,
If you have an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two prongs on its plug. If no conductivity (over 1 meg Ohm) the fuse inside is popped. Take the cover off, look in the area near the power cord, it is the usual 5AG type (glass cylinder) fuse. If you replace it and it pops again then measure all the diodes in the rectifier circuit (near the fuse).
Many times power transients will just blow these input power devices. However, many times it will go much deeper and get the TV's processor brain. If the TV is anywhere near 10 years old, I wouldn't go any deeper than the input power circuit.

There will be a short somewhere in the power supply. If you replace the fuse it will blow again. You COULD try a larger ampage fuse, but any electrician would not recommend this!

ok appaloosa! is the fuse blowned again? if blow you have fault unregulated power section, you have defective parts like.. leak degausing or defective diodes or capacitor and or regulator IC. 2nd. defective horizontal output. if not blow the fuse u have fault oscillation!

This set uses a switching power supply. Usually when there is a short on the output side of the switching transformer the supply will just shut down and refuse to operate but normally will not blow a fuse. If the fuse blows suspect a problem with something shorted on the input side of the switching transformer such as I801 regulator IC, diode bridge D801,or other shorted component. Perhaps someone else could tell both of us any other part that could cause the regulator to blow and should also be replaced to prevent regulator failure in the future.