Door closer problem

Maybe a suggestion, take back where you got it if they can not fix it they may give you a new one.
I did find two suggestion one was to loosen the adjustment screw and try pulling out further and the other is Thank you for your interest in our Wright Products Tap N Go Closer. The closer rod has too much tension to pull out manually with your hands. We recommend connecting the rod to the door jamb bracket then pulling the cylinder to extend the rod.
I also saw where someone said the connectors you screw to the wood are plastic if they are be careful not to break them.
Below video of installation .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x10TGh0bHgI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsDmbeh8IHc
You are supposed to push the door open a little more then it closes. I see some other people have the same problem as you from the reviews and comments on this site below.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/reviews/Wright-Products-Tap-N-Go-White-Screen-and-Storm-Door-Closer/202888792/1?sort=Most-helpful&reviewsRating=0
Some people got them to work again just to have them fail again. Look at the comment of 1 star
https://www.lowes.com/pd/WRIGHT-PRODUCTS-15-75-in-Metallic-Adjustable-Hold-Open-Pneumatic-Screen-Door-and-Storm-Door-Closer/50175925

on the rail there should be 2 cylindrical black magnetic read switches with white wires connected to them.
Those are the open and close distance units
sometimes they come loose and move with the vibration of the motor when opening the door

The latch can be adjusted, but make sure there isn't something wrong with the seal or hinges.

Its your track

Im assuming you dont have heat right ? Well the 1 you will be looking for is on the heater core box behind the radio/next 2 the glove box, but the actuator that controls it is closer 2 the floor on passenger side behind kick panel on right side of radio , I had the same problem last year and could not replace it without taking the dash out so I just disconnected the actuator and tied the door open. This will cause you 2 loose the A/C unless you close the door and mine dont work so it stays open all year

I think this may be the "closer" motor continuously trying to gain a positive latch--and unable to do so. This could be from a damaged latch switch.

The sliding door has three motors, a slide motor, a release (or unlatch) motor, and a closer (or latching) motor. The open door light and interior lights coming on seem to indicate that the "closed and latched" switch is sometimes open-- allowing the closer motor to continue to operate.

Another possibility is that the dent has changed the geometry of the door mechanism especially the draw of the pull cable. The slide motor has a sensor that pulses when it runs. The door management controller counts the number of pulses of the slide motor sensor to determine when the door is fully closed and then stops the slide motor. At that point, the closer motor operates to latch the door. If the cable geometry has changed, the door controller may be shutting off the slide motor prematurely and the closer motor cannot complete the latch.

I think what has happened is that the door latch (the one in the door) has somehow closed and won't let the door shut normally.
Here's how it works. The door latch consists of two major parts. One is the short, round metal tube thing that is attached to the car body about halfway up where the door shuts. Inside the door there is a latch in a slot that lines up with round metal tube thing when you shut the door. I think what has happened is the latch has closed, not allowing the door latch to slide over the metal tube thing and close completely. If you look at the latch in the door slot you'll (hopefully) see what I mean. Now how to fix it.
You'll need a medium to large screwdriver and maybe some help from a friend. First, lift the outside door handle like you are going to open the door. Hold it up. Then, with the screwdriver, push the latch in the door slot UPWARD until it clicks and latches.
It is difficult to put this in words but it usually is an easy fix. No damage done to your car (unless you REALLY slammed the door hard numerous times..).
Please re-post with any questions.

follow this to reinitialize
1. Push the “MAIN” power switch to the “OFF” position.
The “MAIN” power switch is located on the instrument panel, left of the
steering column.
2. Confirm doors are closed, lights are OFF, and the key is out of the ignition.
3. Disconnect the negative (–) battery terminal and wait 60 seconds.
4. Reconnect the negative (–) battery terminal.
5. Push the “MAIN” power switch to the “ON” position and wait 3 seconds.
6. Push the “DOOR R” switch to open the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely opened.
7. Push the “DOOR R” switch to close the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely closed.
8. Push the “DOOR R” switch to open the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely opened.
9. Push the “DOOR R” switch to close the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely closed.
10. Push the “DOOR L” switch to open the left door and wait 3 seconds after the door is
completely opened.
11. Push the “DOOR L” switch to close the left door and wait 3 seconds after the door is
completely closed.
12. Push the “DOOR L” switch to open the left door and wait 3 seconds after the door is
completely opened.
13. Push the “DOOR L” switch to close the left door and wait for the door to
completely close.
With ignition in the “ON” position and both power sliding doors in the fully closed
position, the “PWR DOOR” indicator on the dash should NOT illuminate.
14. Confirm proper operation of both doors using the dash, B-pillar switches, and the
transmitter button

Hi leighturn
The most likely cause, is a bad switch on one of your doors.... When the door is opened the switch is released, so that it can earth and complete the circuit....The power is connected to the courtesy light and is grounded through the door switch, completing the circuit....

regards Johngee10