Lens will not extend

If you are dead careful you can take it apart to get to the lens mechanism. Before you do this however take the batteries out and leave it for a few days. This will help discharge the flashgun circuit and reduce the risk of electrical shock. The back cover will come off with a litlle persuation once you have rmoved all the screws. Make a not of which screw goes where though cos' theyr'e not all the same. After the back is off you should see the electronics. Don't touch any of the electronics until you are sure the flash circuit is safe! The first thing to do is to make sure the flash circuit is safe. First locate the flash leads. There are three one blue, one pink, and the other white. The actually connect on the other side of the board but you should be able to see them just above the top edge of the board. On the board near where they are you will see a lightining bolt in a triangle, that's a shock hazzard warning! The Capacitor is the big black cylindrical object on the other side of the board near where the flash cables connect. It has two leads which connect to the board about 1cm apart, just by the blue cable. They should be easy to spot as they are quite large compared to most of the other connections. Once you are sure you have the right connections you can do the scary thing, and discharge the capacitor. What you need to do is put the metal part of an *insulated* (Important that bit!) screwdriver across the two connections. Use an old screwdriver for preference, this can damage the screwdriver. Also, wear goggles or glasses when you do this, because you get quite a hefty spark when the contat is made. (It's as well to brace yourself for this, I do it quite a lot. It still makes me jump, and I ain't no girly!) By the way, this won't harm the camera, this capacitor gets discharged like this every time the flash is used. It just all goes into the flash-tube intead of through the screwdriver. That's quit a lot of concentrated heat, which is why it isn't good for shiny new screwdrivers! Make absolutely sure it is discharges before going on. You next will need to unplug the LCD connector and the menu 'paddle' before going on. The connectors used have two parts, one is a sort of latch. You need to slide the latch towards the ribbon to release the ribbon cable. (The latch is usally a differnt color from the rest of the connector. Theyr'e also quite small so get your reading glassed out!) Once this is done you shoud be able to free the elcetronics module, by removing one screw located centrally in the metal frame at the end where the lens assembly is. It comes in from the side of the camera. If you have got this far the fron cover should come away and you can see the other side of the module. The lens assembly is on the other side and is held in place by threee screws going through the board. One of these has a bit of red laquer on it. That's a message saying 'dont unscrew me'. So it's best not to. (You'll risk gettin dust on the sensor, and that's really difficult to clean up!) You should now bw able to see the actual lens motor, and some of the gears, and will be able to clean them a bit better! Note, don't go sloshing lots of water around, the lens assembly sits right on top of the image sensor which you don't want to get wet, nor do you want to get water in the lens. It won't dry off without leaving a stain. If you really need to dry it, use the purest alcohol you can lay your hands on. That will absorb the water, and so you can wash it away. The alcohol will dry a lot more easily then water and is less likely to leave a stain. Just make sure it's really pure! If that doesn't work, you will have to remove the lens assembly. First disconnect the motor cable etc. Then holding the lens in place remove the three screws, and carefully place the whole thing on a level surface with the lens facing up. Now carefully lift the lens assembly. Make sure that you do not distub the blue filter which fits over the sensor, and as soon as the assembly is free cover the sensor with a clean cloth to stop dust getting in. You should now be able to get at the rest of the gearing. After that all you have to do is put it all back together:)

Try using a cotton swab with a little bit of rubbing alcohol and place it on the shutter so that it washes away at the residual dried up urine crystals that maybe stuck in there. Good luck. The alcohol should vaporize if you leave the camera in a well ventilated place.

I had the same problem, here is how I fixed it: Make sure batteries are fully charged, Open the cover of memory compartment, the red LED is flashing, it means that there is a reading error. I reset the camera (under the output connection cover), took off the memory chip, and replaced with a spare one, then it powered on and prompt to date/time set up. Let me know if this works for you. John

Shoot the cat :-) Cats pee on electrical circuitry is nigh impossible to get rid of. It's extremely corrosive and will cause problems continually. I've managed to get VCRs going after a dousing but within weeks they die again.