Samsung DMT300RFW Builtin Dishwasher Logo
steph latt Posted on Jan 27, 2012

All my lights on the front of the dishwasher are blinking at me & stops running after 3 minutes into the cycle. What is the cause of this & of course, I am two months past my warranty. Help.

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  • Posted on Feb 06, 2012
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If three lights are blinking (normal, heavy, quick)... I just had this same problem, and I think I figured it out. There was water on the bottom from the last cycle, so I pressed HEAVY and DELICATE at the same time for 3 seconds (you'll see it printed on the control panel), and the unit drained. I was then able to start the new cycle normally without the error. Hope that helps!

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Clean light just blinks and will not run

Ah, the famous (or infamous) Clean-light blinking problem. Watch that blinking light.... Does it blink 7 times, pauses, and repeats? Or does it blink 3 times (or some other number). The most common problem is 7 blinks wich means "water not heating error". This could be caused by a bad heating element, a bad thermal cutoff, a bad controller; or the problem could be that 1 of the 2 switches inside the door latch is not getting engaged fully. Most of the time, I find that the cause to this problem deals with the latch, or the switches in the latch. If something (like a soda) gets spilled into the latch, it can cause the plastic parts to stick and not slide to engage the 2 door switches. You might need to take the latch out (unplug the dishwasher first!), remove the switches, and clean the plastic parts with water, dry it, and then re-assemble. The other thing to check is the door strike, which is supposed to push down the latch. The springiness of this metal part may be weak. You can remove it (without pulling out the dishwasher), by using a small screwdriver to release the little catches on either side of the "tongue" or "tang". Bend the center part down slightly more to give it more force, and then re-insert it. Then run the diagnostic cycle (by pressing the following sequence of keys: Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal; or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry; or Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry, Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry; or High Temp Wash, Heated Dry, High Temp Wash, Heated Dry), let it run for a few minutes, and then press Cancel to stop the dioagnostic cycle and clear the error.
Note: On some of the newer Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid dishwashers, you start the diagnostic cycle by rapidly pressing the 3 left-most keys in the following sequence: 1 2 3, 1 2 3, 1 2 3.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

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Ah, the famous (or infamous) Clean-light blinking problem. Watch that blinking light.... Does it blink 7 times, pauses, and repeats? Or does it blink 3 times (or some other number). The most common problem is 7 blinks which means "water not heating error". This could be caused by a bad heating element, a bad thermal cutoff, a bad controller; but the most common problem is that 1 of the 2 switches inside the door latch is not getting engaged fully. This may be caused by something getting spilled (like a soda) into the door latch that is making it stick, or the door strike may be weak and not pressing down on the door latch hard enough. If it's the latch, you would need to take the door apart and remove the latch mechanism (unplug the dishwasher first!), remove the switches, and clean the plastic parts with water, dry it, and then re-assemble. The other thing to check is the door strike, which is supposed to push down the latch. The springiness of this metal part may be weak. You can remove that door strike, bend it down more, and then re-install it. Then you need to reset the controller by running a diagnostic cycle. Do that by pressing the following sequence of keys: Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal; or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry; or Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry, Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry; or High Temp Wash, Heated Dry, High Temp Wash, Heated Dry). You will know that you have entered the diagnostic cycle when all the lights light up for a few seconds. Let the dishwasher run the diagnostic cycle for a few minutes, and then press Cancel to stop the dioagnostic cycle and clear the error.
Note: On some of the newer Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid dishwashers, you start the diagnostic cycle by rapidly pressing the 3 left-most keys in the following sequence: 1 2 3, 1 2 3, 1 2 3.
Good luck!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

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I have a 665.16039401 kenmore dishwasher and the clean light continues to blink. I can not run any cycles

Ah, the famous (or infamous) Clean-light blinking problem. Watch that blinking light.... You say it blinks 7 times, pauses, and repeats, right? Well, 7 blinks which means "water not heating error". This could be caused by a bad heating element, a bad thermal cutoff or thermostat, a bad controller, or a problem with the door latch and/or switches. Usually, the most common problem is that 1 of the 2 switches inside the door latch is not getting engaged fully. This may be caused by something getting spilled (like a soda) into the door latch that is making it stick, or the door strike may be weak and not pressing down on the door latch hard enough. If it's the latch, you would need to take the door apart and remove the latch mechanism (unplug the dishwasher first!), remove the switches, and clean the plastic parts with water, dry it, and then re-assemble. The other thing to check is the door strike, which is supposed to push down the latch. The springiness of this metal part may be weak. You can remove that door strike, bend it down more, and then re-install it. Then you need to reset the controller by running a diagnostic cycle. Do that by pressing the following sequence of keys: Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal; or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry; or Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry, Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry; or High Temp Wash, Heated Dry, High Temp Wash, Heated Dry). You will know that you have entered the diagnostic cycle when all the lights light up for a few seconds. Let the dishwasher run the diagnostic cycle for a few minutes, and then press Cancel to stop the dioagnostic cycle and clear the error. If the problem re-occurs, then the cause may be a bad heating element or a bad controller.
Note: On some of the newer Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid dishwashers, you start the diagnostic cycle by rapidly pressing the 3 left-most keys in the following sequence: 1 2 3, 1 2 3, 1 2 3.
Good luck!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

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Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Are any of the cycle lights lighting up like rinse and normal and is the light on front blinking and pausing if so how many times is it blinking? Try turning the power off too the unit for five minutes and back on, because if the lid was open some or was stuck it can stop the unit from running.
Thank You and please ACCEPT my answer and Rate my answer if it was helpful..
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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If the clean light flashes, pauses, and then repeats. When the dishwasher doesn't sense a water temperature increase, it stops working and locks the functions (clean light flashes, all buttons are non responsive). It does this as a safety in case the element is broken and feeding electrical current into the water.

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Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


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Whirlpool & Kitchen-Aid
Tall Tub Dishwashers
PROBLEM: STOPPED RUNNING, WILL NOT START AND CLEAN LED BLINKS 7 TIMES, THEN REPEATS (WATER HEATING FAULT)
Control is programmed to stop running and not allow any further
cycles if it detects a water heating problem (no temperature
increase detected in heated Main Wash cycle or in 3 consecutive
cycles on the latest software version). Control blinks the Clean
LED 7 times repeatedly and disables the Start/Resume key until
cleared.
Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it
to operate again. The water heating condition
must be corrected or the control will stop
running again. See potential causes below.
Check If…
Heater circuit problem:
♦ Open heater.
♦ Wire disconnected, open connection or component
in heater circuit.
♦ Faulty heater drive circuit on control.
Then…
1. Check operation of heater in Diagnostics cycle.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
3. Check resistance of heater and all components
and connections in the water heating circuit or heat
dry circuit.
Door switch not making contact consistently:
♦ Misaligned door latch assembly (which can be
aggravated by high door closure force keeping
strike plate from fully seating).
♦ Faulty door switch (high resistance).
♦ Loose or missing installation anchor screws,
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NOTE: Neutral switch on plastic tub models is only in series with
the heater; other loads are not affected.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Measure resistance of door switch contacts while
checking mechanical operation of latch assembly.
Confirm switches not loose from assembly. Check
strike plate and door closure.
Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently.
• Foreign object in pump
• Excessive foaming
• Clogged pump screen or broken chopper screen
• Loose electrical connection in motor circuit
See Tech Sheet “WASH PUMP WILL NOT PUMP”.
Lack of water to heat. (Unit not filling properly)
• Insufficient water supply pressure
• Fill valve screen blocked or valve not opening fully
• Loose electrical connection on Fill Valve.
• Float switch obstructed or functioning abnormally
See Tech Sheet “WILL NOT FILL OR LOW
WATER”.
Diagnostic Key Dance:
Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or
High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry

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dont forget to vote hope this helps thank you
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