Unit is mounted in my big truck.
Pulled it out one day and heard a rattle. Opened the bottom and found one of those tuning screws floating around. (looks like a set screw, goes in one of the threaded tubes with the copper wire windings around it.) There are two hollow tubes without screws that I can see. A black one at the back left, and a brown one at the back center next to where the antenna hooks up through the back panel.
Seams like people can hear me for a good distance, but I lose them at 1/4 mile or less.
Also, the two empty tubes and the screw have no sign of the thread locking wax like stuff they used on the center screw .
I have worked on a few of these. And I believe the slug needs to be put back in the one next to the antenna,or you can look a the white lettering on the board next to it and it should say L11. It, will be right under your antenna connector. You, will need to have a tech do this so it can be set correctly. It takes a meter to get adjustment just, perfect, however. If, you would like to chance it, you, could put it back in and use a peace of rubber band between the slug and the housing to hold it in. I would try it with about 1/4 of the slug still showing out the top. But you really need a cb guy to check it, and your SWR.
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Re: loose tuning screw?
What you are looking at is a powdered iron core from one of the tuning coils in your unit. They are used to match circuits together. The brown tube is the one it is out of. The screw is used to match the output of the amplifier to the antenna. All systems are a little different so you need a way to fine tune the system. The closer the circuit is to matching, the more power it will transfer. The fact that the one tube is black and one is brown (and near the antenna output) leads me to conclude that it goes in the brown one. There definitely needs to be one on the antenna output to match it. The black one is probably plastic while the brown one is cardboard or fiber. If that is the case the black one never had a tuning coil because it is a fixed value inductor. How do you know how far to screw it in? If you have an SWR meter (or a friend you can borrow one from) hook it up, do a calibration, put it in the "reflected mode", and while transmitting turn the screw in until the meter drops to it's lowest and begins to rise, then back it out 1/2 a turn. You should see the meter begin at a high level and drop as you turn in the screw. This is because as you get the system impedance closer to a match there is less reflected wave and more signal propagated from the antenna. This should result in improved reception for you and your friends. It would also be a good idea to put a drop of household glue on the screw threads to lock it in place. Don't overdo it though because you may need to retune it in the future if you get a new antenna or change anything in the system. Good luck.
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In most cases the bottom panel can be removed if not the whole unit will have to be dropped. If the bulb is not loose u can bend the center conductor of the socket out for better connection. Or just replace the socket.
You can look at fan closely and see if there is a set screw holding the fan to the shaft. It could be loose causing the rattle. If that is not the problem then see if the shaft has a lot of play in it. It could be worn out and allowing the fan to rattle. If that is the case then replace the fan
This is just a WAG but it doesn't sound like a compressor problem to me. The clicking could be the start relay, which could be a combination of either the start relay or start capacitor.
The vibration and banging is probably the shock mounts that the compressor are mounted to the cabinet frame with. Although rare, if the screws come loose the compressor will slowly destroy the rubber grommet shock mounts. If you are missing even one grommet (need four) then it will vibrate and rattle. If two screws are loose then it will allow it to vibrate and rattle also.
All bets are off if the compressor is very hot to the touch! Then it probably is the compressor.
This happen to me also. I heard a rattle before the lens got stuck. So I loosed some of the screws on the side of the camara and opened the case slowly and carefully. A small screw fell out and the camara has worked fine since (about 6 months). You may have an internal screw that is jamming the lens mechanism.
If the fan bearing is not worn, which would cause the fan blades to wobble and create noise, the problem is with the sheet metal mounting plate being loose and rattling.
In mine, I just slightly bent the plate on the side that has the mounting screws. When installed, this will help apply pressure against the bottom of the mounting plate to secure it in position and not rattle when running.
Generally, these units are held to a backing plate with a pair of screws that are accessed by removing the vent plate above the door. There are a couple of Philips screws. Inside...at each end, there is a slot head screw head on a rod. Support the unit and back these screws out. The unit will then pivot from the bottom away from the wall. Detach it and then repair the issues with the hold bracket. Warning: these units are heavy!
I just opened my DVP-FX810. I bought it used ($60) and the guy said some times he had problems with it. It has worked fine for 3 weeks. But then I heard something rattling around on the inside. When I opened it I found that one of the disc door springs was loose around in the case. Lucky it didn't short anything out or jam the gears. The plastic support is broken so I just removed the spring. To disassemble; Flip it over. Remove the battery. Remove all the visible screws. And yes, you have to remove the voided warranty warning sticker to get to one of the screws. So be aware of the consequences of your self repair. Also, there are four screws under the rubber pads in the corners. The rubber pad in the middle back did not have a screw under it. Once all (15) screws are removed then you can pry off the back panel. That is as far as I went. Hope this helps.