Grinding nose from timing cover and a tick from valve cover could that tick be chain slap or is the 2.4 a no tolarince motor

I suggest you ask an experienced person listen to the noise.

Hydraulic tappets can click for a while after starting and usually aren't anything to worry about unless the noise becomes louder, harsher and more pronounced as the engine speed increases.

If the clicking is suspected to be timing chain related it would be very unwise to ignore it.

ytu a heavy oil and an oil treatment

Sounds like a Belt or timing chain is slapping inside the Cover ,,, usually a sign that your Belt or chain tensioner is broken ,,, i wouldn't run it to long ,,as it will skip and do serious engine damage ,,GET IT TOWED TO A TRUSTED SHOP !!!

Check serpentine belt for extreme wear or tear, also look at pully for obstruction. Could be slight valve tap or timing "belt or chain" slapping against the timing cover case, (whatever Suzuki uses).

It sounds like a collapsed hydraulic valve lifter- a part of yoiur valve train in the upper engine. You need to have it checked at a shop you trust I don't know of any oil additives that can cure this, although someone here may give you some advice.
Loose valve train noise is common on high-mileage engines, but if it is a collapsed lifter, I think you should have it checked.
A loose timing chain will make a rhythmic slapping sound, but the ticking you describe sounds more like it's in your valve train. Have someone check it.

could be something with the timing chain system. There were some complaints about the chain slapping the cover and even a good number regarding failure for these cars. If it's anything more than a slight tick I would, or have a professional, take a look at it. If one of the guides, or the tensioner, or even a link in the chain itself let go it can spell big trouble if you try to drive it.

Check your oil first. I guarantee your car burns oil and it may be very low on low. The ticking may be a lifter starved for oil or one that has debris in or on it. The timing chain usually makes a "slapping" sound when it gets slack in it from lack of tensioner adjustment.

A sure fire way to check the timing chain if you are concerned is to take off the valve cover (also a good time to replace the valve cover gasket). Then you can see the chain and feel and see if there is any slack in it.

i have the same problem on a customers car
its only when it sits for like 30 mins
and its coming from the rear head i can't hear it right by the chain cover so it might be
1. too thin of oil
2.oil starvation
3. variable valve timing solenoid sticking and when oil pressure rises it works normal.
4. or chain slap but then id figure the tensioner is bad....
but it goes away so its not a potential.. cuz if it was the noise would be there regardless.
i haven't fixed the car yet im gonna look at it tonite.

from what you are describing it sounds like a lifter/valve issue, i am a ford man i don't know if toyota do the same thing, but if they use inserts for the valve seats it is possible a valve seat has been dropping just has not dropped fully out to cause engine damage. buying a new engine will actually cost you less than an overhaul/rebuild anymore. the parts will cost you almost as much as a new motor will with all the machining that maybe needed.

I doubt it is the timing chain. More than likely it is the valves themselves, the seats wear out, and the lifters wear, so eventually the lifters don't pump up as full as they should, so it causes a gap between it and the valve, so it slaps the valve, also the seats wear, so the valve is kinda loose, so that causes a gap between it and the rocker shaft, so you get another slap. If the chain wore out enough to be hitting the block or front cover, you would be having timing issues because it would have to be pretty loose. You may also have a failing oil pump, so it is not suppling the right pressure, which is why you hear it at idle, because under load the pressure goes up and as I said it pumps up the lifter. This guy is a joke if he told you just to drive it till it blows, which would cause significant damage, Then you have to buy a what? use motor for $600 that is no better off than what you got? Then pay someone like this idiot $500 to install it? Right now you could probably rebuild the engine for about $600, and have a brand new fresh motor for your truck. The chain is not too difficult, you can do it in the car, but would be much easier out of it. The head doesn't have to be removed to do it, but you do have to take off the timing cover, which can be a pain, and possibly the water pump, all the engine pulleys, alternator, etc. So thats why I suggested pulling the motor. And, when it is pulled, it would be a great time to freshin it up with new pistons, rings, bearings, have the block done and rebuild the head.