Kenmore Dishwasher 665.1671590 Leaking water at fill funnel.
Dishwasher is leaking onto the floor. If you follow the black inlet water hose from the water solenoid up the side of the dishwasher cabinet on the lower left, it will make a 180 degree downward turn and connect to a plastic piece with a rectangualar hole on the front side. I am told that is called a fill funnel. That is where the water enters the dishwasher. Water comes out of this rectangular hole and onto the floor anytime the water solenoid is entergized.
The dishwasher is not full of water. I can see a little under the round disc shape inside the dishwasher in the bottom.
When the dishwasher is on, the sprayer wands are not spining and no water spray. Everything sounds normal when you turn it on. Pump runs, but no water spray in the dishwasher and a mess on the floor.
I don't think I have given the dishwasher time to fill because of so much water coming out the top of the fill funnel. There are no cracks or breaks. It all still looks new in there. Should I try pinching off the fill hose some and see what happens?
My wife is already hitting me up to buy a new dishwasher.
Yikes!
it makes a buzz sound when it goes into a wash cycleit makes a buzz sound when it goes into a wash cycle
AnonymousApr 04, 2008
Just ran my Kenmore 665 tonight and something didn't sound right. You guessed it the dishwasher overflowed all over the kitchen floor-it sounded like a waterfall (into the basement below, damaging 6 ceiling tiles, and soaking the carpet, not to mention the wood floor in the kitchen). The water wouldn't stop coming out. I had to turn it off at the shutoff and then run the cancel/drain cycle. There must have been 5-6 gallons of water on the floor before I could get it under control. The funny thing is bothe the pre-wash and wash cycle went without a hitch, this happened on the rinse cycle. I'm afraid to turn it on again.Just ran my Kenmore 665 tonight and something didn't sound right. You guessed it the dishwasher overflowed all over the kitchen floor-it sounded like a waterfall (into the basement below, damaging 6 ceiling tiles, and soaking the carpet, not to mention the wood floor in the kitchen). The water wouldn't stop coming out. I had to turn it off at the shutoff and then run the cancel/drain cycle. There must have been 5-6 gallons of water on the floor before I could get it under control. The funny thing is bothe the pre-wash and wash cycle went without a hitch, this happened on the rinse cycle. I'm afraid to turn it on again.
The water is not being sprayed to clean the dishes. Water in the bottom have to select drain cycle to drain it. The water is not being sprayed to clean the dishes. Water in the bottom have to select drain cycle to drain it.
I have the same problem except it waited until the floor was completly saturated before we could see the problem. I now feel as though the design of this inlet air gap was a design flaw. I went to the store and wondered why on earth do you put the inlet directly in front of the wheels and or grate the only dishwasher that doesn't is the bosch.
Back to the original question. I found that as soon as the machine calls for water the solenoid opens and runs water in the air gap starts sputterring and leaking down on the floor. Lookied in the manual thought to much water PSI Nope...20-120PSI requirement. I think this is a faulty design the new ones have a tall rain gauge air gap where it is tall and would have to fill the tub 1/4 the way up before it leaks. I hate to spend 700.00 on a new dishwasher only because of this problem still looking at modifications to this one.model 665.15955793
I have the same problem except it waited until the floor was completly saturated before we could see the problem. I now feel as though the design of this inlet air gap was a design flaw. I went to the store and wondered why on earth do you put the inlet directly in front of the wheels and or grate the only dishwasher that doesn't is the bosch.
Back to the original question. I found that as soon as the machine calls for water the solenoid opens and runs water in the air gap starts sputterring and leaking down on the floor. Lookied in the manual thought to much water PSI Nope...20-120PSI requirement. I think this is a faulty design the new ones have a tall rain gauge air gap where it is tall and would have to fill the tub 1/4 the way up before it leaks. I hate to spend 700.00 on a new dishwasher only because of this problem still looking at modifications to this one.model 665.15955793
AnonymousMar 19, 2014
Is water suppose to run continuously from the bottom of the connector hose?Is water suppose to run continuously from the bottom of the connector hose?
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734 Answers
Re:
Step1 Inspect the door gasket. As it ages, the gasket can crack or become hard, preventing it from sealing completely. Step 2 If the gasket appears solid, adjust the door latch so the door seals tightly. Loosen the screw that holds the door latch to the cabinet. Push the latch in slightly and retighten the screw. Test the door and readjust the latch if necessary. Step 3 Replace the gasket if water continues to leak after you've tightened the latch. Most gaskets are held by compression in a groove on the door or on the dishwasher cabinet. Step 4 Pull the old gasket out of its groove, using adjustable pliers (see illustration). Take the gasket to an appliance store to get a replacement. Step 5 Soak the new gasket in warm water to soften it, then press it into the groove. Start at the top, then work your way down the sides and across the bottom.
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this are the possibilities for the leak :----- Door gasket loose/torn Corner gaskets or door baffle/vent gasket Door lock/latch loose/broken Split spray arm Over filling with water...usually the level is just under the heating element is normal Something leaking through the door...like the soap or rinse agent dispenser gasket, silverware basket button. Door hinge(s) bent Wrong soap was used...dish sink soap instead of dishwasher soap Rinse aid being used with mechanically softened water ( makes foam or suds inside the dishwasher )
Leaks from under the unit: Look for whiting or calcium stain on the motor and pump assembly = motor and pump assembly seal leak...access panel removal help Hose for upper spray arm split Fill hose split or fill hose spout air inlet is calcium covered Drain hose is split Rusted liner...metal liners only Fill valve leaking or allowing water to fill all the time Heating element ends....where they come out through the dishwasher liner Float or float gasket.
there are 3 bolts are bottom front compartment, may be taken off with a phillip screwdriver, or it may be a torx. when you take it off, cut your washer on and see where it is leaking, your gasket could be broken, your hoses or pump.
Hi . the air gap is required by law, to have it there.to stop water in the tub, to end up in your water system, which would never happen. try setting the pressure down, and use the dishwasher. it should work fine . turn down taps ,till it stops leaking . should be ok
If your dishwasher leaks, check these:Main tub seal Door gasket or seal Water-inlet valve Hoses
Main tub seal Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.
The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:
1. Lower rack 2. Spray arm 3. Spray arm support 4. Wash/drain impellers
Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace it.
Door gasket or seal Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.
The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.
Hoses Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose. thanks for using FixYa
CHECK YOUR HOSES FOR CRACKS. BE SURE THEY ARE ATTACHED SECURELY TO THE PUMP OULET.
THERE IS ALSO A BLACK HOSE FROM THE VALVE THAT GOES UP THE LEFT SIDE TO A VACUUM BREAK ON THE SIDE OF THE TUB. BE SURE THE HOSE HASN'T BEEN DAMAGED OR DISCONNECTED. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT SUPPLY HOSE, PULL THE DISHWASHER OUT OF IT'S INSTALLATION AND TURN IT ON. WATCH FOR WATER DRIPPING ON THE FLOOR AND TRACE IT BACK TO FIND THE PROBLEM.
If your dishwasher leaks, check these:Main tub seal Door gasket or seal Water-inlet valve Hoses
Main tub seal Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.
The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:
1. Lower rack 2. Spray arm 3. Spray arm support 4. Wash/drain impellers
Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace it.
Door gasket or seal Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.
The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.
Hoses Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose. thanks for using FixYa
could be the valve but more likely is the fill hose itself. pull it out, turn on the water and check the hose carefully especially at the ends wher it joins onto the tap and the machine
Did you have this problem before replacing the solenoid coil or it start after ?
In case it started after solenoid coil replacement, its look like you did something wrong while assembling it back.
Disconnect Dishwasher power cable and close water tap - remove the selenoide coil, clean the valve from scale or other dirt and check that you placed all parts back properly (spring,gasket...).
Good luck !!
it makes a buzz sound when it goes into a wash cycle
Just ran my Kenmore 665 tonight and something didn't sound right. You guessed it the dishwasher overflowed all over the kitchen floor-it sounded like a waterfall (into the basement below, damaging 6 ceiling tiles, and soaking the carpet, not to mention the wood floor in the kitchen). The water wouldn't stop coming out. I had to turn it off at the shutoff and then run the cancel/drain cycle. There must have been 5-6 gallons of water on the floor before I could get it under control. The funny thing is bothe the pre-wash and wash cycle went without a hitch, this happened on the rinse cycle. I'm afraid to turn it on again.
The water is not being sprayed to clean the dishes. Water in the bottom have to select drain cycle to drain it.
I have the same problem except it waited until the floor was completly saturated before we could see the problem. I now feel as though the design of this inlet air gap was a design flaw. I went to the store and wondered why on earth do you put the inlet directly in front of the wheels and or grate the only dishwasher that doesn't is the bosch.
Back to the original question. I found that as soon as the machine calls for water the solenoid opens and runs water in the air gap starts sputterring and leaking down on the floor. Lookied in the manual thought to much water PSI Nope...20-120PSI requirement. I think this is a faulty design the new ones have a tall rain gauge air gap where it is tall and would have to fill the tub 1/4 the way up before it leaks. I hate to spend 700.00 on a new dishwasher only because of this problem still looking at modifications to this one.model 665.15955793
Is water suppose to run continuously from the bottom of the connector hose?
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