My machine won't start unless i slam the door very hard, or kick it near the door jam, now after a year of doing that it wont start at all, what needs fixing?
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Re:
Almost certainly the door interlock faulty. fairly cheap part and easy to replace.
remove plastic clamp holding door boot to cabinet and peel back in the area of the door interlock. door lock is held in by 2 screws from outside which undo and withdraw lock. disconect electrical plug and small diameter tube at bottom. fitting new one is just the reverse
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Hope I can help.When you press the start button is there a buzzing coming from down by the filter if so Check that there is not something stuck in the filter.You will have to be careful depending on how much water is left in the drum so put some towels down and undo filter slowly or get the machine near a door then release filter out onto a door step.when drained shine a torch up inside filter and see if the little plastic blade on pump can turn but do not try and force it,if you do find anything in there then try it again and check the pockets.If there is still a fault you will have to call out your Engineer.
More likel that the door latch or handle is broken.
Only way to open door now is to remove the top cover and force the door lock open from inside, you may possibly break the lock by doing this, but there is really no other alternative.
Either the switch striker/actuator on the door is worn or the door lock/switch assembly on the right side of the door opening is faulty. It is recommended to replace both parts when one is faulty or worn. The door lock/switch assembly is part number 1094190 and costs about $55. The switch striker/actuator is part number 906446 and costs about $5.
Door Lock/Switch Replacement Procedure
Unplug the machine.
Open the machine's door.
Locate the retainer spring of the seal boot retaining hoop at the bottom of the door opening.
Stretch the retainer spring apart then remove the retaining hoop.
Ease the edge of the seal boot off the lip of the door opening near the door lock/switch assembly. Remove enough of the seal boot to gain access to the door lock/switch assembly behind the front panel of the washer. Be careful not to tear the seal boot. It will cause water to leak out of the machine.
Remove the three screws securing the door lock/switch assembly to the front panel.
Slightly lift the door lock/switch assembly, pull it away from the front panel then pull it out of the machine.
Disconnect the wiring harness and connect the new door lock/switch assembly.
Reinstall the new door lock/switch assembly and the seal boot in reverse order of the procedure above.
I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. Therefore the washer ID doesn't mean
anything to me. It's been about 55 years since I had experience with front load washers. However I can refer you to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good trouble shooting and repair information on front loaders. I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.
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